Hole in rear strut, strut cover or tower? w/Picture

[BostonGST]

My car started clunking going over bumps and I could hear it bang on the rear strut. I looked at the strut and there's a hole rusted through it. The strut isn't even attached! Is it just the strut mount and easy to replace? Or is it the actual tower rusted?

 

[PlanZero]

Very simple. Strut mount ("top hat") need replaced. Since its the rear its easier than the front. Just loosen the two nuts, jack the car up and remove the wheel. Remov the lower strut bolt. Smack it off with a hammer or your palm. Pull the whole assembly out. Put new top hat on (I would replace both BTW, and use the other one to see how to properly assemble the bushings). Slide it back up, finger tighten nuts. Push down on the hub and slide the lower end of the strut on. Replace strut bolt. Replace wheel. Lower car. Tighten nuts. Done.
This is what you need.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/1995-1999-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-R-L-Rear-Upper-Strut-Mount-Plates-Nuts-NEW-OEM-/361098291174?nav=SEARCH
The Haynes, Chilton or FSM also has detailed instructions

 

[BostonGST]

Such a relief and thanks so much for the description!! I do not need a spring compressor because I am leaving the assembly intact correct?

 

[pauleyman]

Any bets those bolts are t going to come off so easy. Especially the lower.

 

[PlanZero]

No need for spring compressor for rears. Obviously douse the lower bolt with PBlaster and possibly a cheater bar if needed.

 

[miliman13]

Very simple. Strut mount ("top hat") need replaced. Since its the rear its easier than the front. Just loosen the two nuts, jack the car up and remove the wheel. Remov the lower strut bolt. Smack it off with a hammer or your palm. Pull the whole assembly out. Put new top hat on (I would replace both BTW, and use the other one to see how to properly assemble the bushings). Slide it back up, finger tighten nuts. Push down on the hub and slide the lower end of the strut on. Replace strut bolt. Replace wheel. Lower car. Tighten nuts. Done.
This is what you need.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/1995-1999-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-R-L-Rear-Upper-Strut-Mount-Plates-Nuts-NEW-OEM-/361098291174?nav=SEARCH
The Haynes, Chilton or FSM also has detailed instructions

Your a winner!!!!
Zero, now that's a model member.

 

[my1st2genGSX]

You could always think of replacing it with some adjustable coilovers... (Why not???)

 

[PlanZero]

Let's just say I've done this more than I wanted. You may want to replace the rubber bushings and coil spring insulators (the rubber dounut under the hat is usually squished) if they're shot. Most part stores have them. I suggest kyb or Moog as the Monroe part # is incorrect.

 

[BostonGST]

Thanks PlanZero and everyone else!

 

[JusMX141]

http://www.miparts.com/detail/shock-absorber-mounting_3579

 

[BostonGST]

I got the strut off and have a new mount and parts. I have it all put together I hope. When I try to put it back in the car the strut is too low for the hub. I can lower the hub by pushing down but don't know if it's enough to slide the strut in

 

[tunedbysaturnsl]

You're saying the strut is lower than where it needs to slide on for the hub? What I did was use a long pry bar with some rags/towels underneath the bottom for the strut and then compress the strut enough to slide over that post.
Others have stated use of a floor Jack and doing the same thing. I didn't see the room for it.
I guess you could unbolt the upper control arm to bring the knuckle down if you'd want to go that route.

 

[BostonGST]

I was thinking of using a jack to raise it but wasn't sure how well that would work when I tried to start sliding it in if it would explode back if moved a little

 

[PlanZero]

You really got to push down on the hub hard with your forearms as you slide it on. That's my preferred method. Before I used to use a block of wood or even a brick on the jack to fit into that space and compress the strut a little. Just takes some finegeling to get it on. As long as the top nuts are finger tight, even if it pops off it's not going to "explode" anywhere. Get mad at it.

If you have to unbolt the upper control arm go ahead, but in my experience the front bolt to the knuckle is usually seized on the bushing, and unbolting the 4 bracket bolts to the body can be a PITA to put back on.

 

[BostonGST]

I ended up standing on the hub and that lowered it enough to slide the strut in