High/low and otherwise scary oil pressure [Merged 3-9]

[Bluefire16]

Ok so ive read a number of different threads but have not come up with much. I have checked my connection to my pressure regulator and the switch. I have connected it and disconnected it, talked to 3 different people. One is currently attending a mechanic school, the other works at a quick lube, and lastly another is a respected dsm member with 3 different dsm's with 450whp each. I have spoken to all of them and have not come up with much, here are the pics. THe first one, oil pressure when car is warm and just sitting and idling. THe second is on the highway going 70mph. It drops soon as im off the gas. I understand my oil pressure should not be this high, any reasons why?
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[JusMX141]

Let me know if this helped you out.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/reputation-recommendations/

Rep whore.

 

[dan2288]

so I just put in Mobil 1 15w-50 oil, thinking it will help. It goes to about alittle past the middle when idleing when cold which i think is ok. Then when it warms up it goes down to the L on the guage when idleing and a little bit below the middle mark when crusing. Is that normal? My bros eclipse stays around the middle when at idle and between the middle and high marks when cruising.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Sounds perfectly normal. Quit worrying about it, but if you can't just get an aftermarket oil pressure guage and you'll know what you've got. It sounds like normal oil pressure to me though.

 

[ryguy86eklipse]

I recently had a similar issue, but I found out the Oil Filter needed to be tightened a little bit. That's the only advice I can give based upon my experience :}

 

[turbotemper]

Thats what my gst does when idling after warm up it stay half way between 1/4 & 1/2 on the gauge. Always goes to half when i get on the throttle. I read somewhere its because of the newer style filter they use now. Dont know if its BS or not. I have a gauge but i dont want to tap anything atm.

 

[mikelv]

Rep whore.

Damn straight!

 

[Defiant]

Although this is specifically the 1G, it still applies:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ormal-owners-manual.html?highlight=oil+manual
Oil pressure gauges on cars are just about worthless. What do you do if it reads low?

 

[dsmowner1992]

I've noticed that happening in my car, the only thing that I can think of is when I replaced my head gasket, I noticed that the balance shaft belt was broken, so I just removed it and put everything back together, I dont think it would be anything to worry about really, unless the BS belt is broke since it could get caught up in your timing belt and Toast your engine completely.

 

[sschambers]

A couple other possible causes for low oil pressure could also be (more severe, but don't get worried - figured I'd add these in since I didn't see anyone else post them):
Oil relief valve stuck open
Oil pump gears worn
Excessive main bearing clearance (crankwalk )

I recently just pulled my motor (3 days ago) and tore it down. Right before pulling it, I was running extremely low oil pressure at idle (the needle was right on 0, on my Auto Meter gauge, from the normal 20-25psi). When I got deep in the block, I had a bad rear main seal, pump gasket and my crank end play measured a 0.27, with the service limit being a 0.25

EDIT > it's normal for your oil pressure to drop when the motor warms up, btw. The oil gets hotter, causing it to become thinner, causing the pressure drop at normal operating temp.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

ive read afew things on this but i cant make it out what i have to do ..
i have an auto 4 speed and i was just on the motorway and was going around 120mph and my oil pressure was at the last dot so very high then i slow down to 90 and it dipps slightly but not alot what can i do to fix this and is it bad and likely to break anything?

thanks in advance

 

[nuclearr]

Yes it can be bad you can bolw out seals especially in your turbo. DO you have a BSEK? It could also be a clog in the system and that could fry bearings rings what ever has stoped receving or reduced oil flow.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

sorry what the heck is a BSEK?? how would i sort this then? do i have to take the oil housing off?

if i stay about 90 ish its not that bad just over halfway!
im not sure what to do next

 

[fwdmaster]

BSEK, means balance shaft eliminator kit, usually when you remove your balance shafts and block them off,oil pressure is increased

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

no thats still on i havent removed any of that yet! will do later down the line...

should i take the housing off then and clean it up? or is it best to buy a newone?? im not fussed if i have to pay ild rather get it right the first time

 

[albert88]

I searched, but didn't see one with a pic. I got the real Evo3 16G installed on my car, and ever since my oil pressure is a bit lower. The guy who did the install used a custom made oil return line to the oil pan, can this be the cause? Everything else is on correctly.

Here is a pic at about 3,000 RPM

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[LKWTSI]

Stock oil pressure, Temperature and Boost are to say the least, unreliable. Install an aftermarket gauge and see what you get. I did, after I installed my Evo III 16g, on my 1g. The result was amazing. I'd figured I had a bad oil pump, 'cause my oil pressure was so low at idle. Once I put my aftermarket on, it reflected a much more acceptable reading and did the same with my temp' and voltage. Until you can get a reliable reading of actual PSI, I'd not get too bent of shape about the stock reading. As for the turbo line causing it, I doubt it. The oil pressure is the discharge value out of the oil pump, the return line wouldn't 'cause low oil pressure unless you're also losing oil and that would be very obvious.

 

[bento]

That's just about where it should be. It's not an accurate gauge, but if you really want to get down accurate get an aftermarket autometer gauge. But my 2g's pressure is around the same at 3000 rpm. So i wouldn't worry about it.

 

[BrooklynBomber]

like these guys said the stock gauges are not really all that accurate.... also remember that its a turbo motor and it thins your oil out faster than an n/a motor would, whens the last time you changed your oil.

 

[DSM1G90]

It could be closer to the "L" [email protected] be happy where the needle rests.

I Just love how Mitz uses a small gauge for the boost and incorporates it with the other gauges on the 2G cars .. so lame.

 

[albert88]

I use Mobile 1 10-30 and I changed the oil about 2 weeks ago, which is when I put my 16G on. Thank you very much for the responses, my mind is at ease now.

 

[albert88]

thread tools ( resolved )

huh? what?

 

[RayBan GST]

thats exactly where it should be at 3000 rpm ( your oil pressure is just normal)

 

[DSM1G90]

thread tools ( resolved )

He's saying "Go to the top right of your beginning post, click on "Thread tools" and select RESOLVED. This will add "Resolved" to the beginning of this thread topic so others know that you question or dilemma has been 'resolved.'

It's just a courtesy thing

-DSM

 

[alansupra94]

I remember working and talking to a few class A technicians down at this Toyota Dealer I use to go to. They told me that those gauge (for most things above 1990s) are designed to keep the driver at easy. Even if the coolant temperature was nearing critical levels, the needle will stay in the middle. The only time it moves to the "hot" region is when seriously high temperatures are happening. Other than that, it tell you absolutely nothing useful. This applies to the Oil temperature and pressure as well.

If it really showed you the real temperature or pressure, they said they would have at least double the amount of cars in here from people worrying about the fluctuating temperature and pressure.

 

[DSM1G90]

Also, to add, is that our T-stats open up at a point close to the boiling point of plain water (180 to 195*). Antifreeze, at 50/50 ratio, raises that boiling point up to almost 240*. Plus, plain water's boiling point is also raised, when under pressure, to almost 225*.

Thus, when the comment above mentions the gauge being close to the middle mark, the coolant temp is at the operating range of critical levels which the motor is at its most effective range in operation.

You hear people running their motors without T-stats and all they are doing is drastically reducing the effectiveness of the motor since it can't get to operating temperature that it's designed to run at.

True, if that gauge begins to climb to the red, that coolant is almost at 300* or more.