High/low and otherwise scary oil pressure [Merged 3-9]

[Bluefire16]

Ok so ive read a number of different threads but have not come up with much. I have checked my connection to my pressure regulator and the switch. I have connected it and disconnected it, talked to 3 different people. One is currently attending a mechanic school, the other works at a quick lube, and lastly another is a respected dsm member with 3 different dsm's with 450whp each. I have spoken to all of them and have not come up with much, here are the pics. THe first one, oil pressure when car is warm and just sitting and idling. THe second is on the highway going 70mph. It drops soon as im off the gas. I understand my oil pressure should not be this high, any reasons why?
[URL=http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oil2xg2.jpg]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

[/URL]
[URL=http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oilvq3.jpg]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

[/URL]

 

[ali]

this is only a couple weeks old so hopefully it will get a response im having the same problem i have a 1g n/t 2.0. my idle (when the car is warm and after its done with that f'n surge) is at like 500 (which is pretty bad) and my oil pressure gauge (stock) is reading right in the middle of the first line and second line. however when im accelerating the pressure will increase like normal. ill try to attach a pic. does this mean time for a new sending unit? im gonna change my oil tomorrow ### its about that time (3000 miles)

also i know of i have like mad oil leaks but i cant find em. there;s oil like all over my engine compartment. one i know is where i screw in the filter theres always oil on the bottom of it. another is somewehre around the top part of the lower radiator hose.

Get rid of that Fram Filter

 

[Dsmj89]

That's a lot of grease. Get yourself new oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket set.
Also get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, factory one isn't reliable. From the looks of it, that reading looks normal, but in in fact should be a bit higher during driving.

 

[MilTowns Finest]

ok cool thanks for the help. i read somewhere you can take out the pcv valve replace it with a similar threaded tube with out the one-way thing inside and run it to a catchcan. and put a breather filter on the nipple on the left side of the valve cover (recently replaced valve cover gasket with the half circle piece and spark plug well pieces)

about the BISS, mine is completely jammed into my throttle body. and it refuses to move even after being pb blasted. took off the throttle body to clean yesterday sprayed more pb where the biss bottom tip is and still refuses to move.

the pic with the mess right next to / under exhause mani. you think thats the head gasket blown?

 

[m0nk3estylez]

Ok I don't got a aftermarket oil pressure gauge so I can't really tell but is it good for high oil pressure or is it bad to have too high?
Where it shot out my dip stick don't seem right to me

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

Its good to have high oil pressure....

Oil pressure is directly related to

the ambient temperature
the engine temperature
the amount of oil in the engine
the engine speed
When changing the oil you often end up with a slightly different amount of oil in the engine then you had previously. Less oil means less oil pressure - add a little more oil and the pressure will rise. Normal oil pressure on these cars is between the Low and Mid mark when idling, and between the Mid and High marks when cruising. These marks are not known to correspond to any particular PSI.

 

[MilTowns Finest]

That's a lot of grease. Get yourself new oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket set.
Also get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, factory one isn't reliable. From the looks of it, that reading looks normal, but in in fact should be a bit higher during driving.

replaced the valve cover gasket not too long ago with the half moon and plug well gaskets. but the oil filter housing and pressure gauge im ordering right now.

 

[m0nk3estylez]

Alright probably gotta get a better dip stick that will actually stick good into the tube thanks

 

[Gstclipse69]

Well going by the stock gauge isnt getting very far. At wot you dont want to have more than 100 psi or 10 psi per 1000 rpms is the general rule of thumb. As for you blowing your dipstick out, you are getting to much blow-by somewhere in the system. Does your valve cover breather have good vacuum going to it? More than likely your pcv valve is shot and you are boosting the crankcase under boost. Replace the pcv valve and look into putting a check valve in between the pcv and the intake mani.

 

[k2crasher]

Check and replace your pcv valve with a oem one, also check your seals on your dip stick. Too high of oil pressure is not a good thing, it can blow out seals and ruin new motors. In your case it isn't really a problem with high oil pressure so to speak it is a problem with your crank case pressure. Most commonly caused by a bad pcv valve.

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

Didn't think about that one...

 

[m0nk3estylez]

Alright I had an extra pcv vavle from my 7bolt when it crapped out on me and a dipstick.
The one that came with the 6bolt I swap had a crappy dipstick

 

[DSM1G90]

the pic with the mess right next to / under exhaust mani. you think thats the head gasket blown?

I'd call it a leaky cam seal - one of the cams seals have bit the dust and is leaking all over that section of the motor.

If your HG was blown, You wouldn't be driving that car, for you'd have water in the oil, smoky situation, et.al.

With that one pict showing the car at idle and the RPM's at 700, I'd say you're okey on the idle..a tad bit low but nothing to worry about. Actual idle would be 750-800rpms

 

[MilTowns Finest]

With that one pict showing the car at idle and the RPM's at 700, I'd say you're okey on the idle..a tad bit low but nothing to worry about. Actual idle would be 750-800rpms

its acting real weird. i was surprised it was at 700 when i started it then. because about 30 minutes prios as i was driving home it was idling at 500 at stoplights just how i described it. that, i know is way low. and thats what had me worried.

on the very top pic its the left side of the valve cover (opposite of cam gear side) that bolt thats circled what is that? there was a big drop of oil under that today too.

so new cam seal, oil pressure gauge, oil filter housing gasket, breather valve, catch can for pcv valve, and get rid of the fram filter.

then a new isc to fix idle surge, then new tires, then new front axles, then new slave cylinder, then new struts, and then and then and then... really starting to lose faith in this "project"..

 

[Bluefire16]

Hey, so im brining back my old thread, i got an aftermarket gauge, and the first one would stick but worked great, i was idling at 15-25psi never more then 100 when the car was warm. I thought it was great, well i got a new one (### the other one would stick around 50psi) and now when the car idles it reads about 40psi?! After i took a 30 min cruise of doing 80mph the whole way, i got home let the car sit and it was reading 40psi and it stayed like this till i turned the car off. Well not only that but it was also readying only 60psi while doing 80. Does this sound right? It wasnt doing this a week ago, but everyday now its been acting like this.

 

[DSM1G90]

on the very top pic its the left side of the valve cover (opposite of cam gear side) that bolt thats circled what is that? there was a big drop of oil under that today too.

that plug covers the hole where the oil line for the turbo would run from the head. Why you're getting oil from there is that the leaking oil is crawling under the lip of that head cover due to a dry and leaky head cover gasket-I can see the wetness on the gasket where oil is seeping out of in that pict.

Really, the oil mess that you have really isn't that all bad. If you're leaving decent sized puddles under the car overnight, then I would say you got a real bad leak. But, it almost looks like a typical situation on a motor with high mileage-they WILL leak where they want to due to age. Seals and gaskets WILL dry out and crack AND you will get leakage no matter what car or motor you have..just a fact of nature.

so new cam seal, oil pressure gauge, oil filter housing gasket, breather valve, catch can for pcv valve, and get rid of the fram filter.

then a new isc to fix idle surge, then new tires, then new front axles, then new slave cylinder, then new struts, and then and then and then... really starting to lose faith in this "project"..
Online

Trust me, with any project that one gets into (being my Ply is my 3rd DSM and 3rd project car...) take your time and fix first what is really needed to keep the car on the road (don't worry on the idle or the light oil leaking thing right now-it's not a 'car stopping' situation), I would look into tires and axles first if the ones you have on now are bad.

Then, "eat the elephant a spoon at a time. Don't try to eat the elephant in one gulp for it will hurt you in an instant."

Sure, we want to get things done pronto, but unfortunately (or fortunately..how you look at things...) it's gonna take days, months and years to complete such a project.. Sometimes, it's to our benefit if we take things real slow: We know that things are done right and right the first time without haste.

..and the majority of the thousand of DSMTuners in this forum have been here and done that with our projects - one day at a time.....just have to learn patience, which isn't easy to do right at first. Yet, if you got $10k lying around that needs to be spent, then, that's another story to be told.

Thus, hang in there with your project - It's like painting a room: looks crappy while you're doing the task, but the end results is what looks great.

Good luck-DSM

 

[MilTowns Finest]

alright. that makes sense. thanks. but i dont get how the gasket would dry and crack when its only like 6000 miles old.

apprieciate the advice. viva la dsm

 

[Bluefire16]

So ive been told to replace my pcv valve, which i am doing tonight, but what else could make my gauge be reading off? Im going to also check the ground and connections today as soon as my car cools down.... what else could be a casue for my random high oil pressure?

 

[95GreenGSX]

So I just installed my electric oil pressure gauge today. I was wondering what oil pressure I should be running at? When I drove it, Idling was around 25. Cruising on the highway was around 50 and when I would get on it or rev it, it would go to around 80-90 sometimes it hit 100+. Is this normal?

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

here ya go
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...therwise-scary-oil-pressure-merged-3-9-a.html

Hope it helps...
I know anything 100+ is not good...

 

[95GreenGSX]

That didnt really help much, but thanks anyways.

Do you think it could be because of my PCV? Any other ideas?

 

[knochgoon24]

It wouldn't be because of your PCV.

Now, if your profile was actually filled out with some useful information, I might be able to give you suggestions as to why, but I'm not going to sit here and shoot in the dark.

 

[95GreenGSX]

Sorry. Haven't had a chance to fill it out yet. 6 bolt, 18g, 550s, 255 pump, afpr, fmic, lc-1.

 

[DeNoZZo]

My car has 7-12 at idle when warm, and it's always at about 40psi when at 2k rpms. Every time I go wot and get past 5k rpms, the gauge maxes out at 100 (prosport). It's been this way for god knows how long (stock gauge didn't work, and bought the prosport this one when I got the car), and she hasn't failed on me yet.

 

[Mitsu RacerX]

Several possible causes come to mind. Poor engine condition, worn oil pump, oil too thin, idle too low, or possibly your oil pick up is partially blocked. Listed in no particular order. Some warrant greater possibility than others..

 

[k2crasher]

Does your 6 bolt still have balance shafts?? If not, that can easiy cause high oil pressures. Common fix for such a problem would be to port your oil pressure relief valve.