Help With Oil Leak - With Pics! Please HELP!

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Ok, been looking and looking for my oil leak. And still without going thru replacing or fixing everything I have in mind I still have yet to find an answer...
I just got a SAFC-II after trading back my AFC NEO. So 1st time runing good HP out of the enigne in about 10months.

So I ask a question as to can you give me a few ideas to whats leaking!

Problems:
Oil leak - .5 qt 3weeks
Oil leak - Turbo drain pipe. Oil Pan. Wheel well timing cover *black pc.,Oil pressure sender unit to gauge (no teflon tape), Oil spray on bottom of turbo

when using 15psi I could smell oil burning at speeds over 100.

Oil pressure seems low, hiting 100psi or so during 0-60 on 15psi boost.

Retards put 2g oil filter on my 6bolt (SC job)
Also, when I moved to FL I had to get my Waterpump replaced in SC at a shop I didn't trust but had to. They put my balance shat out of phase, I got 40miles b4 a huge oil leak came from the filter housing causing me to bring it back to them. So Oil filter housing could have been damaged by them.. IDK

LOUD LIFTER TICK
-20 psi oil pressure at idle as far as I can tell from the gauge.

- intercooler pipe broke OIL PRESSURE SENSOR (LIGHT), the round part broke off. Trying to jb weld it but no luck. Pipe broke it off again.


--- No oil above intake, no oil on timing belt cover. -----

thanks for the help.

Im also for some reason having the hardest time getting the EBC to have a smooth boost setting on boost higher then 17. Tryin to hit 20 or more it bounces.
I know how to use it, and I got it to go from worse to better the way your told to in the book. But I dont have the BOOST LIMIT SET or REDUCTION for boost limit so I cant see why its hard. I have low boost set at 17psi now and I have 72 in. Then you try them same setting on HIGH and it dont work. Then try going to 20 by got to 85 which is alot compaired to before. I have had this boost controller for 3yrs.
Profec-B II

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

ADDING PHOTO RIGHT NOW!
Still uploading to Photobuck.

Before (CLEAN) and AFTER (DIRTY Oil Spray)

CLEAN

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

DIRTY

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLEAN

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

DIRTY

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

THAT BLACK PLASTIC WAS SPOTLESS 50 miles ago!

 

[Ravenous]

I don't have much to contribute but my eclipse has always and I think will always leak oil and it drives me nuts.

Mine also seems to come from this general area...

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

My spots on the ground seem to come from the OIL FILTER housing. But its wet on but the oil filter side and the turbo return line.

I called FP and they said there BLUE return lines have never leaked!

 

[XLR8]

On the return line are you using the washers under the bolts? They are really thin metal ones but you absolutely need them or it will leak. If you are using the originals I would recommend new ones.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

so get thin washers and flanged bolt? and des that mean the leak is coming from the oil pressure sending unit that wasn't tefloned... Also the 2g oil filter increasing oil pressure or w.e. due to wrong size. Also the broken oil pressure light sensor.

thanks

sorry keyboard is broken

 

[95redturboawd]

That almost looks more like dirt than it looks like oil. It should be dripping all the way down the return line like mine was. I gooped rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket and it doesn't leak any more.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Ok tonight I put teflon tape on Oil Feed Line, Oil Feed Line Adapter.

Replaced gasket on oil cooler (one that looks like oil filter Oring) it goes between the pump housing and the oil cooler. FRAM 2g sized Oring from Oil filter was perfect replacement no OEM needed, even thicker also for better seal.

Replaced Crimp band from BLUE FP Return line with hose clamp *was LOOSE*. Turbo oil return line to oil pan bolts with bolts with a flange and RTV'd the top (turbo) and bottom (oil pan) gaskets.

Replaced my filter to 1g Oil filter.

Fixed a coolant leak.


OK, tonight was good, got good logs in, car ran amazing tonight, 1st time in 10months to feel real power and boost. Small smell of oil but not til 120mph and 6000rpm so I'm gonna let it slide for now.

Intercooler piping didn't pop off at 22psi but did at 17psi so I had to limp home. Going to fix pipe (make lip on) in the AM, check under the car for oil spots.

I put new cardboard under the car and made it spot-less so I should see any oil spots.


MY GUESS! Would be the gasket on the oil cooler, it was cracked and a 1" section fell out when I took the cooler off, so it had 2 cracks if you think about it!
BUT using gasket off of FRAM oil filter was perfect fit!

 

[MidShipCivic]

You shouldn't use a fram oil filter it's a bad idea, because they are known to explode.

There is a topic on DSMtalk but I'm not sure about tuners.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

regardless of what brand oil filter is good or bad, just note that the gasket for the 2g FRAM oil filter makes as a good gasket for the oil cooler!

but thanks for the tip, will look into better. Plus I have been using FRAM for a good amount of time, and also have had QuickLube and repair shops use QuakerState, PureOne,STP,FRAM. I have yet to use the OEM VR-4 Galant oil filter (or is it the same as the 1g turbo).

 

[ali]

yeah get rid of that fram filter, that is a no no

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

I know what you mean about oil keas driving you crazy. I just finished rebuilding my motor not 2 weeks ago and im experiencing some oil leaks. Im not sure if you fixed everything on your car but what i did was just take some brake cleaner (the fast drying stuff) and just spray all over the under side of your engine (especially like around your oil pan, your oil return line, your filter housing as you said you were having problems with that, and any other seems you can find.), and turn your car on (with the car jacked up safely of course) and just watch it for about 5 minutes while the car is running and you should be seeing all the little oil leaks coming out. I have had to do this every weekend now due to my stupid oil leak. I replaced every single oil hose and every little vacuum hose i could get my hands on to make sure all those didnt happen but i`m still leaking oil so yea, still working on that plan hahaha Good luck to ya man!

 

[wises4057]

grrr...I just got one of those little(and I mean LITTLE!!) oil leaks on teh drivers side too...had it run for about 10 minutes after cleaning under, and no luck finding a single small leak...grrrr....I think mine might be under my lower timing cover..damn. glad to hear your leak is fixed now man!!! good to know about that o-ring!

 

[Laysher91]

I would not recommed using an oil filter o-ring as a replacement for the oil cooler o-ring. The oil filter o-ring is designed for a life of a few thousand miles and the actual oil cooler o-ring is designed to last much longer.
Doing a side by side comparison with an OEM o-ring, they may be similar is size but the rubber composition is different. As far as cost goes, isn't a Fram oil filter about $3? The actual OEM replacement o-ring can be purchased from JNZtuning for about 50 cents more and you know that it will last.
It may have gotten you by in a pinch, but using an oil filter o-ring would make me worry. And for 50 cents, I would not risk a massive oil leak at highway speeds.

 

[erald01]

Is that bolt by the reading unit suppose to come loose? I have oil leakage out of there but no luck taking it out.