ECMlink Help with DSMlink tune, log attached.

[TheLaserDude]

Hey everyone. Let me start by saying a few things I want everyone to be aware of. I've never been part of a forum before nor have I posted to one. If I happen to do something wrong or violate a term or condition thats why and I apologize ahead of time. If I need to do something else instead just let me know. Thanks in advance.

Ok so I also would like all to know that I have extensively exhausted my options as far as conquering this problem entirely on my own. I notice that a big thing is people want people to abide by certain parameters when it comes to asking for tuning help. Up to and including research and beyond. Rest assured I have done these things. I have surfed many forums and watched many videos and asked as many question to as many people as I could and here I sit writing this.

My problem is simple, I have a vehicle that I'm over my head in tuning (I haven't ever tuned before myself) But I'm an ASE certified mechanic and I understand the concept of tuning just have never gotten to do it. I have a 92 Laser RS with a pretty highly modified 6-bolt out of a 90 talon ( I believe thats where its from ) Please see my profile for specific mod lists. I bought a drag talon from a friend who for an irrelevant reason could not keep the car. I helped put the block together and assembled the head for him. I put the engine in my laser using all of his parts (complete part transfer). He was running speed density on DSMLink so as am I. The issue is that I don't know what to do to make some headway in getting the car dialed in properly. I want all to know that I have read this thread ( http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html ) and have taken these steps to ensure I am not asking for help with obvious problems in front of me. There are NO BOOST/VACUUM LEAKS. My idle switch coils are within spec. I am running an oil catch. My compression is on point and my vehicle timing is set at factory with factory cam sprockets.
I have also completed all the steps in the attached PDF up to page 16 where asked to decrease injector dead time to straighten out combined fuel trim. It did not work.

I have had a problem getting the car to start and idle without my foot on the gas. I am running an AEM 3.5 bar map and have threaded it into the manifold. That seemed to make a difference. The log I'm going to post was just the car idling on its own. Its very radical and TPS adjustment is way up. The other problem, guys, is that my wideband never reads anything other than completely rich or completely lean. Kind of scary. I'm sure it due to not being anywhere close to dialed in. I'm not going to talk everyone's face off anymore. Please help me if you should choose to. I'm willing to listen and do what is necessary. Thanks again.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Go to the dsmlink forum http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/

 

[mrmadsm]

you obviously have an air/fuel mixture issue. you must be running too rich, and that is why you have to open the throttle to give it more air. look into what would cause this issue

 

[snowborder714]

1. Make sure the firmware you're running is the latest.
ECMTuning, Inc.

2. Make sure the software installed is the latest. Make sure to install both Stable and Early Access versions.
ECMTuning, Inc.

3. Go into the Direct Access section and change LoadScale to 100%.

4. Are you running the stainless AEM MAP sensor or the brass one?

5. Watch this video to get your idle dialed in. Instead of adjusting MAF Comp sliders, you want to adjust SD cells that are being used at idle (use "Track datalog" button on Speed Density page to figure this out). Keep in mind that since you're on SD you want to watch SDAirflowPerRev and not the normal AirflowPerRev as shown in the video.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

6. Have you done a free air calibration on the wideband recently? And are you sure it's wired up properly?

7. Looks like your TPS could use a bit of adjusting, unless you're constantly giving it a tiny bit of gas throughout the whole log. (Hint - there's links in the article you mentioned you read on how to adjust this.)

8. Your battery voltage is pretty low. Is this normal, is your alternator not working, or is something else going on?

 

[TheLaserDude]

Brian,

1. Firmware updated just now
2. Upgraded stable and early versions
3. Load scale changed to 100% via DA
4. Running the stainless AEM 3.5 bar MAP
5. New log shows new tps adjust tool usage ( tps value is at 10% so I stopped using it. something else has to be wrong it still runs awful at idle)
6. Free air calibration on wideband was done @ install which was 2 weeks ago. I re-calibrated it just now to be safe. Wired correctly as per Innovative MTX-L manual.
7.Batter voltage was low in that log probably due to battery health which has been replaced since then with a brand new optima yellow top.

I'm still lost on where to go from here. It seems every which thing I adjust seems to only cause more malfunction elsewhere and I can't seem to make headway at all. Not only is idle an issue but everything seems to be out of whack. I can't seem to get fuel trims in line for the life of me and It makes it all the harder that the car won't idle within at least 100 rpms or something to even start to adjust the ve table which I'm sure is a mess to anyone with experience. Where do you think I should start and how?

new log

 

[snowborder714]

Take note of the throttle position DTC code that is now thrown.

LoadScale is still showing 114.8% in the log you posted.

Looks like you still haven't gotten the idle set properly. Did you watch the video and replicate the steps?

 

[TheLaserDude]

Brian,

Here's the log from yesterday that you made. I'm going to take care of some of the things we discussed. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again. Hey nice truck BTW

 

[Calan]

Based on your global (a little rich), the VE table (a LOT rich), and the frontO2 sensor going high and then flat-lining at .94v (and apparently causing the ECU to momentarily drop into open loop and cut off the injectors), I'd say you are PIGGGGGGGG rich.

BUT... without a good WB signal, it's really difficult to see exactly what's going on. It's mostly locked at 22.4:1, at which point the car wouldn't even be running.

My suggestion would be to get the WB hooked up/configured properly (or fixed), load a more reasonable VE table, and then see what the AFR's at idle really are while locked in open loop.

 

[snowborder714]

Here's a post with the stock VE table that you can use to test Craig's question.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/153236748-post9.html

Have you contacted Innovate to see if they have any suggestions on what's going on with the wideband?