Help with 6 bolt please!!

[jon-brady]

Hey,

I am kinda new to Dsm. I first started out with a 95 gs and hated the 420a piece of junk motor. Now I am getting a 2g gsx or tsi awd. I've heard about this crankwalk with these engines and that the 6 bolt is better than the 7 bolt? I am mainly wanting to know what is a cheap but good motor to put in the car? I keep on thinking 6 bolt since I hear about the 7 bolts having crankwalk. Also would it matter if I got a 6 bolt nonturbo motor and made it into a turbo motor? Is there differences from the turbo motor and the nonturbo motor? I know someone with a 6 bolt nonturbo motor and I was thinking about using the block and such to start building. If you guys could just give me as much as advice as you can give that would be much appreciated! I am a HUGE fanatic about DSM's and want to get my dream car (2g dsm) going. Thanks for looking at my post.

Sincerely,
Jonathan Brady

 

[outkastracing]

a turbo to non turbo block is the same but the cams are different, injectors i believe and there are some other differences you can get a complete turbo 6 bolt that needs rebuilt for cheap then youll have it all right there.

 

[Nicks2319]

If you want to use a non turbo block, you need to drill out the hole for the knock sensor. Also, the non turbo block does not have oil squirters.

 

[tyger1]

6 bolt are the better of the dsm motors. the 1g 7 bolt motor is better than the 2g 7 bolt because the 2g uses oil jets rather than oil squirters. there is a thread here on the different blocks.

the non turbo block does not have an coolant tap. not a big deal unless you use the oil/water cooled turbos. but there is always another way to run the coolant line.

if i were you i'd look for a 6 bolt motor or 1g 7 bolt

gold luck

 

[dsm-onster]

Some highlights of 6-bolt and n/t motors:

1. Stronger rods (many 6-bolt blocks have pushed 500+whp as daily drivers)
2. Seam to be less crank prone (as you've already mentioned)
3. Have MUCH stronger reusable head bolts (even if you upgrade to arp head studs with both a bolt and a 7bolt, the 6 bolt arps will be much stronger. The bolts are physically wider.)
4. 4g63 n/t engines have higher compression weeker pistons than turbo engines (the first ring land is much closer tot he top of the piston and is prone to crack when encountering mild knock.)
5. 6-bolt 4g63 n/t engines have the IDENTICAL rods that make turbo 6-bolts so famous (that's right, if you have an n/t 1990-1991 DOHC, your engine is capable of 500whp!)
6. Some n/t blocks have the hole for the knock sensor already tapped. Some have the hole. Some have just the boss there. A SMALL amount (i've heard of only one) have no boss.
7. As mentioned, there are cam differences. The intake cam is different between turbo and n/t and turbo auto. The exhaust cam is different turbo manual and turbo auto. Turbo autos have the same cam as n/t. There are combos that yield the quicker spool or more top end power. Manual turbo cams have the most duration and overlap as stock. A turbo manual exhaust cam and an n/t intake cam presents the same duration as turbo cams, but even more overlap for quicker spool. And I THINK the n/t intake cam has more lift. Using n/t cams is just fine. You'll have more low end (the cams are advanced more than turbo and the exhaust has SLIGHTLY less duration) and the overlap is the same. In all, if you find an n/t block don't waste your time swapping the cams for turbo manual cams.
8. There are dimples on the n/t block to drill the oil squirter holes. Though, so many have taken block with no oil squirters to well over 450whp.