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help w/ data log

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davidgt97

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Jul 13, 2007
eastview, Kentucky
I just got a new cable for my logger so I decided to try and log a 3rd gear pass to see just what is going on. My car comes in to boost good but it feels like something starts to hold it back. From the log, which I'm not sure I fully understand, it looks like I get knock and it pulls timing. I'm only pushing 14psi and wouldn't think I should be getting knock. I would like for someone to take a look at my log but I don't know the easiest way to do this. Can someone help me out. I'm just now becoming more familiar w/ the logger.
 
Yeah, post the log in here and we will then be able to really help you. You never know, if you are still on the stock injectors with the 16g you could be knocking only at 14 psi. Lets see the log.
 
Good point but it had been running for a while. this was the first time I had seen the #'s in English instead of Metric. Maybe I need a thermostat. What temp should they run?
 
Steve I just put in a new knock sensor and a new 192 thermostat. My air intake temp is around 185 while my coolant temp only gets to 130.
 
I just went out to the car and ran it up the road and back. When I got back it had a coolant temp of 102.5 Celsius and 39 air temp
 
I just converted 102 celsius and its 216 F. That seems a little warm. Also I unplugged the coolant temp sensor (the sensor on the thermostat housing?) and I expected a value of 0 when I checked my logger but it was about where it was before I unplugged it and it still moved around. Did I unplug the wrong sensor?
 
Assuming that Steve is correct and that my cool temps and air temps have swapped which I believe is very possible, does everything else look ok? Fuel Trims, Timng, Knock?
 
I just converted 102 celsius and its 216 F. That seems a little warm. Also I unplugged the coolant temp sensor (the sensor on the thermostat housing?) and I expected a value of 0 when I checked my logger but it was about where it was before I unplugged it and it still moved around. Did I unplug the wrong sensor?

There are three coolant sensors on the thermostat housing. One for the AC computer (upper two pin oval connector), one for the gauge cluster (lower single spade connector) and one for the ECU (lower two pin spade connector), which did you pull.

From your other post it sounds like the values on the logger are correct but transposed by the software you use to extract the log.

If your using MMCd you can change the units shown on the logger by setting the options/preferences. Click on the title bar and select options then preferences then units - English. (something like that, my logger is in the car)

In the last log you posted from 4700 rpm on your going over 100% IDC
 
I think this is the point where I need an "over my head" smily. I'm guessing IDC is injector duty cycle and going over 100% is probably a bad thing. Please elaborate on how you figured this out, what it means, and what I should be doing. I do have a wideband and SAFC( little scared of the SAFC) that I don't have hooked up yet so maybe I will be able to use these to line some things out.
 
I'm guessing IDC is injector duty cycle and going over 100% is probably a bad thing.

Please elaborate on how you figured this out, what it means, and what I should be doing.

I do have a wideband and SAFC( little scared of the SAFC) that I don't have hooked up yet so maybe I will be able to use these to line some things out.

I figured it out by remembering that the unlabeled column between INJP and AIRT is the Injector Duty Cycle as I was looking at your log.

Have you pressure tested your intake lately? (boost leak test) The fuel trims don't suggest any leaks but the IDC% is way out of whack.
 
First of all thanks for being patient w/ my DSM ignorance. It's very much a learning experience every day. I haven't got a chance to pressure test my TB yet because I blew the radiator hose off today. The old plastic upper hose inlet is very brittle and decided to break. I'll have a new radiator in tomorrow. As far as the pressure test goes I have done several boost leak tests on the car before and while I'm fairly confident that I have done it properly I really don't know for sure what the results should be. I do remember the last time I did one I got the same results whether I tested 20psi at the TB or directly after the turbo. I seems like it took 20psi about 1:45 to bleed to 0. I have replaced the TB and elbow gasket as well as new "O" rings on the TB shaft and I have sprayed soapy water all around the TB and have no bubbles. Could my high IDC's be the result of the stock 450's having to overwork themselves to keep up w/ the big 16g EVO III at 14psi?
 
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