Help stalling the Auto....

[awd4g63turbo]

Totally new to the auto game and I'm trying to get my car to stall up on the convertor in a timely matter so I can make a few track passes. It will only stall up to @ 2200 rpm and 2-3 psi without nitrous. I have a 50hp wet shot installed at the moment. Im going to set it to come on @ 2k rpm and spray until @ 3300 rpm. I am also in the process of installing a Dynatek arc 2 that will be wired to the brake switch for 2 step also.
I have read through all the threads here and on ECM link forums and have not seen a definite answer on what is the best process to go about doing it, just a few different ways/methods. I have tried different air/fuel ratios and different amounts of timing and neither seemed to make that much of a difference. So any help is appreciated. I read a bunch of people had used anti-lag wired to the brake switch to hold timing so it would not pull through the brakes while staging, but some also have said use the timing retard on the dynatek set to @ 10°... which is the best way to go? I should have everything back together this week and would love to have my 60ft times back I had before the auto swap.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

We need to know what turbo, cams, intake manifold, compression ratio, etc in order to provide help

what kind of 60’ are you pulling now? What were you pulling with the manual trans? What clutch and tire combo?

 

[awd4g63turbo]

2.0 eagle/JE 8.5:1
T4 Bw s363
Stock intake manifold, I have a Magnus on the shelf I may reinstall
Crower 272's
Stock convertor
Car is set right now on 30psi on 93 octane. After I get this situation figured out I am going to be switching to e85 and more boost.

I haven't made a pass with the auto set-up yet, so I'm unsure of the 60ft now but it's a pig out the hole. Before the auto swap I was getting consistent 1.64-1.7 on a stock trans using a Southbend clutch. I have always ran my car on street tires (Firestone Indy 500) and FD rx7 wheels. I do have a set of Rota/Hoosiers I am going to try out after I get all this figured out.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I had the same problem. No NOS, stock converter, could only stall to about 2200 like you say and 2-3lbs boost on the HX40 with a 3.6 60' is dam embarrassing to me, but it was all I could do. I am going to slap a NOS shot on when I get mine all lined back out also so I am watching for tips.
When I had the stock 13b on the car, I could stall that thing up to around 3500.

 

[awd4g63turbo]

Yea, I got my brother's car doing pretty good. He is only on a 20g though. It will come up on the convertor in @ 6-7 seconds and stay on the 2 step with the Dynatek. We are probably going to install a small shot on his after I get mine figured out. I'm pretty sure his will be alot easier to do though. He will probably end up needing it anyway when he upgrades to a bigger turbo.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

They can be laggy but once lit, boy are they fun!

 

[Tyeler18]

Advance the timing up to your max stall speed, you want torque to bring it up on the stall, then drop timing back out hard/quick which will bring boost in. It can be a pain to perfect, but if you can bring it up on the stall first it'll be way less lazy. More RPM and then more boost

 

[awd4g63turbo]

I played around with raising/lowering timing, and lean/rich afr's but nothing seemed to change more than a 100 rpm or so either way. I had the timing up to 2k rpm in the mid/high 20's I believe, and pulled a few degrees of timing @ 2200 rpm when I had the nitrous activate.
And now that I'm trying to add some nitrous to the situation, the times I tried spraying it, it would get knock within a few hundred rpm (2400-2500) of spraying. I have it set-up in link to shut off if it gets @ 2° of knock until I get everything figured out.

 

[awd4g63turbo]

Ok, so I finally got the Dynatek installed (thanks Marty for the help ). Just wondering if it's better to use the timing retard of the dynatek, or wire up the brake switch for als. Which one seems to work better, and is there a benefit of one over the other?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Glad to help! Glad it is functioning correctly, you did a good job!
I have had a number of people swear that the Arc2 box retard is better for various reasons, lets see what comes up about it.

 

[awd4g63turbo]

I know for sure to use the dynatek 2 step. It holds our other car perfect and the rpm doesn't have a big swing up/down like it did when we were using Ecmlink 2 step.

 

[jed344]

Depending on hot side a s363 is fairly large turbo for stock stall converter. What elevation are you at?

 

[awd4g63turbo]

Basically sea level here. I had a Bradco convertor and a built auto trans to put in the car, but I ended up selling the car before I got the convertor back from Brad (@ 6 months after promised to have it back to me). So for now, I'm just trying to do the best I can using nitrous on the stock convertor to get it to stall.

Depending on hot side a s363 is fairly large turbo for stock stall converter. What elevation are you at?

 

[jed344]

Are you using dual maps for staging with the spray. I think that's what scott liard did. You would have to ask him exactly but i am fairly certian he had it set up to run Min map for spool when spraying then it change to max map once spray is off.

 

[awd4g63turbo]

Are you using dual maps for staging with the spray. I think that's what scott liard did. You would have to ask him exactly but i am fairly certian he had it set up to run Min map for spool when spraying then it change to max map once spray is off.

No, I haven't tried that yet. My afr's seem to be safe while spraying the 50 shot (wet kit). I played with timing and fuel a little earlier. I had a spot @ 2k rpm where it would go lean for a split second while revving the car up slowly (without nitrous), which was about where my car would stop stalling up. After getting that squared away, I can now get it up to @ 2300-2400 rpm without the nitrous. So, I guess I'll be back at it tomorrow and see how it does with just the dynatek 2 step until I can figure out which way to go about the timing retard.