Help needed before purchasing

[turboclaw]

Ok, I have tried to research this, but it all seems to flood together and just confuses me. I have a 4g63 out of a 90 talon that I got with a supposedly "blown" engine. Upon teardown I found that a rod bearing spun. So, I took the block to my machine shop, and I had them clean/inspect the block. The block and the crank checks out okay (all mic'd), The crank looks brand new! I am going to order some eagle rods for it, but I haven't been sure on what pistons to order. Ross, or Wiseco?? and what comp ratio? It will be used for a street car, mostly commuting on the weekends and for fun at the drag strip on the weekends also. I thought I was sold on wiseco until I noticed the unbelieveable amout of people running ross. I heard somewhere that the wiseco is better on startup in cold temperatures, but I was wondering if that is a hoax? Doing the bottom end would require some new main bolts right? My machinist said that the mains would have to be line bored if I put in ARP main studs. I called up slowboy and they said that they put new oem blots in some of their their shortblocks. Is the main bolts going to be a weak point if I go with just oem bolts? ARP sounds nice, but if I have to go throught the trouble of line boring the mains just to put them in is it worth it or is the oem bolts strong enough? Also, it is only going to be occasionaly dragged, so I was wondering if the peddle pressure on the ACT 2600 will be much more than the 2100? I would like it to be able to be comfortably driven (as good as dsm's can be) I expect to be flamed on this, because I am new to the dsm world. I have tried to do my research, but everyone has their own opinion and it seems like every manufacturer has its flaws and everything is crap according to most people. One person may say that eagles are garbage, while another person may say that they are running 650hp no problem. If you all could give me some real life opinions it would be awesome.

Thanks, any help would be appreciated.

 

[Catbox_95]

I wish I could be more helpful other than the following, but it will help you none-the-less. The reason you get so many opinions is because there's thousands of ways to skin a cat, and thousands of them work equally well. People will form their own opinion, then feel so strongly about it they think it's the only way. For example, in my opinion, ACT2600 clutches suck. In fact, I have a brand new, never used one I'll sell for half price. I know there are hundreds of people on this forum that would swear by that clutch, but I think it's crap. (not a good salesperson, I know!) And they're not wrong for liking it, and I'm not wrong for hating it. Stay on this forum long enough and you'll have half of the people telling you Ross pistons suck, and the other half telling you they're the best.

Since you aren't planning on making a 1,000 hp drag car, you aren't going to go wrong with either Wiseco or Ross pistons. Both will provide more than what you'll ever need. Same goes with the rod bolts. The stock 4G63 can handle a hell of a lot of power, stock, especially for a 4-cylinder. I've noticed people usually don't worry about any of the stock internals until they pass up 500 hp.

I know this wasn't a direct answer to your specific questions, but I hope it helps.

 

[turboclaw]

Hey, thanks for the help-

So, I think I have come upon a good buying list.

My local dealer quoted me $2.52 each on oem main bolts, so I think that is what I will do.
Eagle Rods $300 plus shipping, Wiseco Pistons $410 plus shipping. The crank doesn't need to be machined, but the block will have to go 20 over. The balance shaft will be removed, block decked. I can't find a torque plate, so I guess I am going to have to do without it, even though I know people think engines are crap unless they use them. Arp head studs will be used along with a cometic hp gasket. I am going to purchase a gasket set from carquest for the rest of the engine. A fidanza flywheel, and ACT 2600 or SPEC stage 2? clutch???????????? Head will be rebuilt and eventually hks 262/272 combo cams. I have heard alot good about comp cams, and they are cheaper. Oh, and clevite bearings is what my machine shop carries, so they will be put in. Please give opinions, so I can see if I am not spending my money in the right way.

Thanks for all your help

 

[Suparata]

How can a crank that had a spun rod bearing be without any damage?

 

[loweperf]

How can a crank that had a spun rod bearing be without any damage?

I guess that if they think you need to line bore the block to run studs anything is possible!

 

[turboclaw]

The guy at the machine shop said that with the extra clamping force, the mains slightly change. I was thinking that with the arp main studs, there isn't more clamping, but rather they are more resistant to stretching and changing under harsher conditions and more load. Thus the the higher psi tenstile strength. Studs, by my understanding were better because they aren't stressed tortionally. So I am taking it that you don't have to line hone the mains if you run arp main studs??

The person before me must have shut the engine off right when needed. It did enough to score the rod a little, but the bearings didn't look worn. It seems kind of weird to me too, but the crank is fine. They said all it needed was a polish and it could be used again.

What do you all think??

 

[Suparata]

I must say that your machinist knows better than I do what the crank needs since he inspected and measure it and I didn’t. It’s just that I’m surprised to have a crank survive a spun rod bearing.
The mains need to be align honed when ARPs are used. Even with stock fasteners it is sometimes necessary to do it. That way you can control the size and straightness of the main bores to ensure a good staring point. Align boring is kinda drastic on a Mitsu block since it would remove more material than needed most of the times.

 

[turboclaw]

sorry, I didn't mean line boring

 

[turboclaw]

what is the limit on stock main bolts?

 

[Suparata]

Nobody really knows for sure. Not too many failed at a certain HP level being the first and only thing to do that. Also most of the guys out there will probably never reach their true limit but as an insurance and torque/clamping accuracy and consistence, ARP are a good choice.