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VETTE_50_TH

Banned Member
3,732
23
Jun 24, 2004
Columbus, Ohio
Alright, my income tax return comes tomorrow. Im calling up ExtremePsi with my order. Tell me what ou think.

ACL Race Bearings- Standard Bearing size Mains and Rods
ARP- Main Bolts 6 bolt
Topline- Freeze Plugs
Eagle- H Beam Rods 6 bolt
Wiseco- 8.3:1 20 over 6 bolt pistons

I already have a cometic MLHG, ARP head studs. That should be everything i need to take to the machine shop to get my block done. This is what im having the machine shop do.

Hot tank the block.
Bore and hone, and align bore the mains.
Install freeze plugs.
Deck the block.
Polish the crank.
Install the bearings.
Put the pistons on the rods.
Connect rods to crank.
Install the main studs and tighten everything down.

And the block should be good to go. If there is anything else that i should buy, have the machine shop do, let me know. Its going down next week. Thanks.

James :laser::talon:
 
If that is the multi-layer steel head gasket...you will need the head and block decked for proper sealing.

If I was going down to the bare block...I would put a new oil pump in there also.

New damper and new (total) timing belt components as well.
 
Fixed. I am getting that done.

As far as the oil pump and timing, the car will be getting NEW EVERYTHING for the engine. All oem. Just not now. Im not assembling the engine, putting the engine in the car til August, or until whenever i get enough money to do everything to the car.

James :laser::talon:
 
I think its a god awful shame how much money we spend on our cars. LOL

Tell me about it. Thats 900 dollars basically. With the timing and head components and engine acc. Thats a good...

Cams and springs- 550
Timing- 300-400
Engine ACC.- 400 or so.

I still want a new turbo as well. Full suspension setup, fuel stuff, brake lines and pads and rotors, FMIC. It adds up quick. I dont even want to think about the cost. :cry: :D

James :laser::talon:
 
Alright, my income tax return comes tomorrow. Im calling up ExtremePsi with my order. Tell me what ou think.

ACL Race Bearings- Standard Bearing size Mains and Rods
ARP- Main Bolts 6 bolt
Topline- Freeze Plugs
Eagle- H Beam Rods 6 bolt
Wiseco- 8.3:1 20 over 6 bolt pistons

I already have a cometic MLHG, ARP head studs. That should be everything i need to take to the machine shop to get my block done. This is what im having the machine shop do.

Hot tank the block.
Bore and hone, and align bore the mains.
Install freeze plugs.
Deck the block.
Polish the crank.
Install the bearings.
Put the pistons on the rods.
Connect rods to crank.
Install the main studs and tighten everything down.

And the block should be good to go. If there is anything else that i should buy, have the machine shop do, let me know. Its going down next week. Thanks.

James :laser::talon:

Are you replacing the crank or main caps? If you are not then getting an align bore done is not neccessary. The only reason to do so is to make sure that the crank will line up properly in the engine and unless there is change there then everything should line up properly. I have heard stories about meachine shops charging for that procedure and not doing because it is not necessary in most instances.
 
I through it in there just in case i cant find the original main caps from this block i got from my stepfathers friend. He said he is looking around, but i dont know if he'll find them.

James :laser::talon:
 
I through it in there just in case i cant find the original main caps from this block i got from my stepfathers friend. He said he is looking around, but i dont know if he'll find them.

James :laser::talon:

Gotcha, I saw it on there but didn't see where you were purchasing new caps or a crank so I was curious. Sounds like a good build, keep us updated.
 
Are you replacing the crank or main caps? If you are not then getting an align bore done is not neccessary. The only reason to do so is to make sure that the crank will line up properly in the engine and unless there is change there then everything should line up properly. I have heard stories about meachine shops charging for that procedure and not doing because it is not necessary in most instances.

With the arp main cap hardware it will need to be done.
 
It looks pretty good to me. Just be sure to tell them what piston to cylinder wall clearance you want. And also what ring gap you want set.
 
What is the best way to determine what you want? I need to learn that.

James :laser::talon:
 
Ive read guys running like a .003 to .004 piston to wall clearance and a ring gap of .017 to .021 tops and .002 plus on the bottom. Is that sound right?

James :laser::talon:
 
Find out what wiseco reccomends and set it somewhere between what they say. If you set the piston to wall clearance loose then you will have more blow by, piston slap is possible while cold, and it should make more power then if set tight. If set tight it will do the opposite of what I just said.
 
Also I forgot to mention to tell them the Wiseco's get measured at a different spot than other pistons. The card/instructions that come with them should show you where to measure them.
 
Cool. Thank you. Where do they get measured from and where do other get measured from?

James :laser::talon:
 
I will try to find a picture of it. I know there is one on here somewhere but I have to find it.
 
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That is where you are supposed to measure wiseco's at. The instructions should give you a description of this.
 
Very nice. Thanks. What is the normal bore of our blocks, is it 86?

James :laser::talon:
 
Purchased my components just a minute ago. Should be here Tuesday Wednesday. So excited.

James :laser::talon:
 
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