Help diagnosing oil burn on startup

[mini zilo]

What would cause oil burning on both cold starts and hot starts? It will burn oil if I just start the car and let it idle , but if I rev the engine/ drive the a block, the burning will stop completely and not come back until I shut the car off again and restart.

I compression tested and all cylinders are at 170 Psi +/- 4psi

If I start the car and let it smoke, it keeps smoking until I drive it/rev it. Would bad valve stem seals cause this, or would that cause it to only burn for a short period of time?

My other suspect is the turbo, which is a PTE journal bearing, -3AN line, with the PTE provided restrictor and -10 AN return line. I have had the turbo for over 10k miles and this smoking problem just started.

Any ideas would be helpful, thanks!

 

[Project91Tsi]

Sounds like worn out valve stem seals. When you are off the gas, the intake valves "suck" oil past the seals, and when you hit the gas, you will blow bluish smoke, much like sitting at a stoplight and taking off.

 

[MotoEclipse]

^^ +1 on valve steam seals.

 

[BoxheadTim]

Valve stem seals would be my first suspicion, too.

Does the engine also smoke when you take the foot off the gas at fairly high revs while driving? That should create a large vacuum and with bad valve stem seals you should see some smoke out of the exhaust. It's often not enough to see in the mirror so you'd have to test that with a buddy driving behind you.

If you get smoke on acceleration and under boost instead of engine braking, I'd be more suspicious that it's the turbo than the valve stem seals.

 

[obryantms]

Deffinately sounds like valve stem seals.

 

[BigRSnail95]

its the valve stem seals. usually clears up after a few minutes at idle correct?

 

[way2fastlaser]

i have oil burning issues too and tracked it down to wrong viscosity .I get smoke too some times on cold idle and my engine is still new. I ran 10w-30 smoked like crazy ran rolla T 15w40 smoked a lil less. Then went to 20w50 no smoke .When i know im going to be beating on my car i go even thicker, yes you get a lot of engine noise when its cold but it goes away when it gets warm. I run 1 qt of 20w50 Valvoline vr1 and the other 4 are strait vr1 50wt i haven't smoked one turbo since i have done this thicker oil can carry more heat away than thinner oil provides better cushioning under loads aka boost..

now if you get smoke no matter what its chances are that the guides and seals are worn just replacing seals is just a band-aid for an ongoing problem with worn guides you could do an oil test and see if the thicker oil leaks down and causes smoke

lot of people when i ask them what oil they run there like 10w30 and its like 90 degrees out witch means the flash point of the oil is 320 degrees. On a engine that is running on average 210 to 225 deg and then it flows like water and will leak down a lot easier. that's just water temp oil temps could be higher closer to the cc chamber i live in mn up here in the winter it gets as cold as -30 up here ill run 10w30 even our owners manuals tell us to run 20w40 in the summer on the visors reason for this is our engines run loose as in tolerances and places like jiffy lube just put garbage oil in like 5w30 in a turbo engine car not good " waaa my engine blew up "

what are your oil pressures at ???

oils i have the best luck with are

vr1 racing oil 20w50 and 50wt has lots of zinc in it and the flash point is 524 degrees
and Mobil one 15w50 synthetic is like 475 degrees
zinc is your friend

oils to stay away from are
1. royal purple our engines hate this oil because of its synthetic additives
2.pensoil
3.anything high mileage
4.no recycled oil

i expect a huge disagreement to happen on here but i yet to blow up one built engine i have built and has suffered endless beatings and over boosts

 

[DOHCTA]

i have oil burning issues too and tracked it down to wrong viscosity .I get smoke too some times on cold idle and my engine is still new. I ran 10w-30 smoked like crazy ran rolla T 15w40 smoked a lil less. Then went to 20w50 no smoke .When i know im going to be beating on my car i go even thicker, yes you get a lot of engine noise when its cold but it goes away when it gets warm. I run 1 qt of 20w50 Valvoline vr1 and the other 4 are strait vr1 50wt i haven't smoked one turbo since i have done this thicker oil can carry more heat away than thinner oil provides better cushioning under loads aka boost..

now if you get smoke no matter what its chances are that the guides and seals are worn just replacing seals is just a band-aid for an ongoing problem with worn guides you could do an oil test and see if the thicker oil leaks down and causes smoke

lot of people when i ask them what oil they run there like 10w30 and its like 90 degrees out witch means the flash point of the oil is 320 degrees. On a engine that is running on average 210 to 225 deg and then it flows like water and will leak down a lot easier. that's just water temp oil temps could be higher closer to the cc chamber i live in mn up here in the winter it gets as cold as -30 up here ill run 10w30 even our owners manuals tell us to run 20w40 in the summer on the visors reason for this is our engines run loose as in tolerances and places like jiffy lube just put garbage oil in like 5w30 in a turbo engine car not good " waaa my engine blew up "

what are your oil pressures at ???

oils i have the best luck with are

vr1 racing oil 20w50 and 50wt has lots of zinc in it and the flash point is 524 degrees
and Mobil one 15w50 synthetic is like 475 degrees
zinc is your friend

oils to stay away from are
1. royal purple our engines hate this oil because of its synthetic additives
2.pensoil
3.anything high mileage
4.no recycled oil

i expect a huge disagreement to happen on here but i yet to blow up one built engine i have built and has suffered endless beatings and over boosts

Very helpful advice!

 

[BigRSnail95]

i have always been told to run 20w-50 in any built engine. what is your opinion on brad penn oil?

 

[banshee88]

valve stem seals definitely..don't run 20w 50..run 10w 30 if your engine Burns oil with 10w30 there is something else going on..btw mobile one is the best

 

[way2fastlaser]

valve stem seals definitely..don't run 20w 50..run 10w 30 if your engine Burns oil with 10w30 there is something else going on..btw mobile one is the best

dont run 10w30 ?

how and why is it not beneficial to run 10w30

well if you don"t beat your car and red-line launches and are bone stock yeah
run 10w30 might as well make it high mileage too its funny no one understands fluid dynamics anymore 10 stands for the cold starting weight of the oil and will flow like 30 weight when warm . can anyone understand where this is going

with the flash point witch means the point it will turn to vapor as it hits metal of most 10w30 is 310-330 degrees . our center cartridges of our turbos are usually running close to 400-700 in boost close to 1200-1600 degrees so imagine your oil what its doing in there and the rest of the engine oil would be close to 260-300 normal operation so 30 is relative to breakdown temp and viscosity so you could keep your 10w30 and be on the side of the road with a rod thu the side of the block or you could get 15w50 or 20w50 and feel the engine like it

dont run 10w30 ?

how and why is it not beneficial to run 10w30

well if you don"t beat your car and red-line launches and are bone stock yeah
run 10w30 might as well make it high mileage too its funny no one understands fluid dynamics anymore 10 stands for the cold starting weight of the oil and will flow like 30 weight when warm . can anyone understand where this is going

with the flash point witch means the point it will turn to vapor as it hits metal of most 10w30 is 310-330 degrees . our center cartridges of our turbos are usually running close to 400-700 in boost close to 1200-1600 degrees so imagine your oil what its doing in there and the rest of the engine oil would be close to 260-300 normal operation so 30 is relative to breakdown temp and viscosity so you could keep your 10w30 and be on the side of the road with a rod thu the side of the block or you could get 15w50 or 20w50 and feel the engine like it

and dont forget 4g63s are loose engines our mains have like .02-04 clearance rods are like 0.1-0.2 something like that there is a reason Mitsubishi tells us to run the oil it says too

 

[nightmares GS-T]

valve stem seals definitely..don't run 20w 50..run 10w 30 if your engine Burns oil with 10w30 there is something else going on..btw mobile one is the best

Are you kidding me? Mobil one is shit i dont know who told you it was "the best". You need to do a bit of research.

 

[way2fastlaser]

well according to this engine builder who builds countless 4g63s and even Modern automotive performance engines before they got there machine shop who is like next door to db performance who tunes brent raus car thicker oil is better no matter what nobody at db in there race cars run less then 20w50 its ither rolla t 15w40 or 20w50 even busher racing says run thick oil

when there engines are torn down even some turbos there is black crud all over and that is carbon from the oil from the fuel leaking past the cyl walls and getting in the oil contaminating it gas is a solvent so add it to oil and it breaks it down faster thinner oil it happens sooner


- Bob is the Oil Guy

dbperformance.net

maperformance.com