2G HELP! car idles but wont rev above 3k rpm

[edmaxx]

i recently rebuilt a 4g63t, had to use a CAS sensor to get it to run, had it running great for about 10 min, then i noticed there was a 100a alternator/ choke fuse spot. i threw one in and the engine made some crazy noises and stalled. now it idles poorly and will not rev above 2500-3000 rpms without bogging out and blowing out alot of smoke. i checked my timing and noticed it slipped 7 cogs on the crank but not the cams. i reset it, and the exhaust cam kept trying to move on me and i couldnt get it timed right for the longest time. this is running me up the wall, please help. car runs but will not rev up.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

well white smoke is a good indication your head gasket is going bad or bad. Do a compression test.

 

[edmaxx]

i really dont think its the head gasket, it doesnt smell like antifreeze or anything, its just weird that it just randomly started this after i put the fuse in and took it out.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

how many pounds of boost are you running? are you running a stock hg and stock head studs?

 

[edmaxx]

prettymuch everything stock except for the fmi now, i have no idea how many pounts im running, i cant even get boost right now it just hits 0 in boost and 10 vac on my gauge.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

what is your vac at idle

 

[edmaxx]

.....

oops sorry, didnt see you wrote back. i thinkj it was like 10 maybe 9 vac. do you think it could be electrical? i mean i put one fuse in and now this

 

[2GFWDbeast]

9 or 10 is really bad. Do a compression test man. Sound like a head gasket if you getting white smoke. Or a really bad vacuum leak.

 

[edmaxx]

i just dont get how it runs fine, then stops reving up. the smoke smells like gas to me, i think its just going out the back because its not burning it. its not really white like a head gas, more a dark grey

 

[2GFWDbeast]

i would do a compression test seeing that your vac at idle is 9-10in/hg is your bov recirculating?

 

[edmaxx]

not at the moment no i have it off to see if its even opening, alright so compression, what else can you think of while i have you here?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

You need to put it back on cause it will cause a super rich condition. Also check your spark plugs there are probably fouled out. Make sure you have a ngk br6es's in your car. SO a boost leak check and spray soapy water on the intercooler piping, injector, throttle body, bov.

 

[edmaxx]

alright, ya the plugs are super black, ill do a boost leak test aswell. anything electrical i should check you think? is there a fuse that might run my map sensor or something?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

also you can try and clean your maf sensor, they make a maf cleaner at autozone. There is a small sensor in side. It should be orange.

 

[edmaxx]

do you have any idea why putting that fuse in would do this?

 

[Bishikid]

ok so you got your check list???

seems you need spark plugs/spark plug wires right? (Punishment Racing sells a package deal if you don't mind the wait for a good deal)
and you NEED to get that bov on, and definetly recirculated!!! then see how it runs after that....

if it still doesn't run to your liking after that then a compression test is a must

 

[2GFWDbeast]

do you have any idea why putting that fuse in would do this?

what are you talking about?

 

[edmaxx]

ya but what i still do not understand is why i put a fuse in when the car is running perfect, it squeels from the alternator, boggs, and dies. then i turn it back on and it wont rev over 3k rpms before it boggs (and will keep bogging if i hold on the throttle, not stall) ? why would i get a boost leak or bad compression from that? im not trying to down on your ideas guys, it just seems like those would be problems that would happen from the get go of the build?

 

[Bishikid]

had it running great for about 10 min, then i noticed there was a 100a alternator/ choke fule spot. i threw one in and the engine made some crazy noises and stalled.QUOTE]

I'm sure this is what he's talking about, he just wrote fule instead of fuze..... right?

 

[edmaxx]

what are you talking about?

"then i noticed there was a 100a alternator/ choke fule spot. i threw one in and the engine made some crazy noises and stalled. now it idles poorly and will not rev above 2500-3000 rpms without bogging out and blowing out alot white of smoke. i checked my timing and noticed it slipped 7 cogs on the crank but not the cams"

my bad, sorry about that, typing on this little netbook is a pain. but ya i ment fuse!

 

[2GFWDbeast]

have you fixed the timing if so do you have it set to 5 degrees?

 

[edmaxx]

for the timing, im setting 1 and 4 to tdc (using a screwdriver and and eye to see if its at the top) and using the timing mark, then using the timing marks on the cam. if you can tell me a better way to do this it would be great.

 

[Bishikid]

I get the feeling you still havn't put on your bov and recirculated it???

I stopped recirculating mine because I was taking advise from a guy with a starion.... yea both our rides were tubod and from Mitsubishi. but little did I know HIS could be free vented and run no problem, BUT our DSMs can't unless we have DSMlink or the GM maf and translater and all that stuff!
anyways long story short, my car was doing exactly what your saying yours is doing(besides the timing jump ) when it wasn't recirculated. recirculated it and it ran fine again!

 

[edmaxx]

well its 2 am right now bro, im gonna get a jump on this thing in the morning, ive been changing my 4runners head gasks aswell haha
im going to take your advice for sure though.
before the engine started doing this it was off though. how do you guys time your car?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

for the timing, im setting 1 and 4 to tdc (using a screwdriver and and eye to see if its at the top) and using the timing mark, then using the timing marks on the cam. if you can tell me a better way to do this it would be great.

you cant adjust timing on a 2g manually. 1g you can using a timing light. You would have to have a eprom ecu with a dsmlink to adjust your timing.