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2G HELP! 5lbs vac leak high idle backfire rich...

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BuyMyTalonTsi

Banned Member
10
0
May 13, 2010
alameda, California
Okay guys Im losing my mind and I don't know where to turn. I have been working on my car for so long I have lost track of time now and I am in dire need of assistance. First ill list mods then issues so bare with me. My 95 Talon Tsi has a stock block and tranny with bolt on mods. Im running 650 injectors/ 255 walbro pump/ big 16G turbo/ huge front mount intercooler and pipes/ Type S GReddy BOV/ Injen high flow intake filter with stock intake pipe/ 3in turbo back exhaust and cat delete/ GReddy E-manage/ 1st gen trottle body rebuilt by steve monroe with port matched intake man./ IBC manual boost controller set at 18psi/ NGK spark plugs with 8.5 plug wires/ evo 3 exhaust manifold/ rebuilt stock head checked out by auto shop to varify proper specs before install/ botom block had 125,000 miles all stock not rebuilt just installed as is after visual inspection/ new sensors all around even the crank postitioning sensor.
Okay thats just the engine mods because that is where the issue is. After building my Talon the car drove fine and even passed smog just fine. I only drove it for about a little over a 1,000 miles when a loss of power developed coupled with back firing but only when I let off the throttle and let the car decelerate. The vehicle also had a vacuum leak and was pushing the dip stick out leading me to believe it had a problem w/ postitive crank case ventilation. I immediatly stopped driving the car and began to work on it. I had a check engine light telling me that me crank positioning sensor was bad so I replaced it. Because I also had 5lbs of vacuum leaking and only showing between 10-15lbs of vacuum I did a boost leak test. I found that my throttle body seals were bad and my intercooler coupling was leaking. After having replaced the sensor and fixed the boost leaks I have no check engine light but the car still has an idle of around 1700-1500 when cold and show 10lbs of vac. when it warms up (and fast) it drops to around 1200 idle and the vac only gets around 15lbs when it should read 20.
I've tried checking my EGR to make sure it accuates and replaced the gasket. All of my sensors on my throttle body are good. I have no boost leaks but still show only 15 for vacuum for some reason. I backed the car out of the driveway and it died on me. I restarted it and tried driving the car but after it spooled in first gear to a certain point it felt like there was some kind of cut as if there was not enough air or too much fuel maybe? It was not bucking like you would have with idle surge. There is no smoke what so ever coming out of the exhaust but it is running rich and there is still a problem with too much crank case pressure. I replaced my PCV but it did not fix the problem either and the car is still popping when I release the throttle( sounds like "wahhhh pop pa pop pop" no loud bangs). There is no ticking or knocking either. Im going to try disconnecting the e-magane and run the stock ecu with the stock injectors to see if that helps at all.
ANY information that anyone might have on this situation would really help guys. Please before I set the car on fire or push it off of a cliff from insantiy!!:banghead:
 
Can you post a log? When you replaced the PCV, did you use an OEM valve or a parts store valve? Parts store valves tend to not block boost from entering the valve cover. Do a compression test as well. How many miles are on the engine?
 
The head was rebuilt and I only put a little over a thousand miles on it. The block had 125,000 when I put the head on it so the block has 126,000 now. I bought the PCV from kragen. I can try replacing it again but the problem still occured even after I replaced the PCV. I disconnected the line running to the PCV while the engine was on and stuck my finger on it to make sure it was sucking air. It works so I dont think the issue is there but ill look into that. Thanks:thumb:
 
Do a compression test, your engine might just be ready for a rebuild and you've got excessive blowby and low compression. Also, the PCV wouldn't fail to pull vacuum, it would fail to hold boost back, something you can't test on the car, you'd have to take the PCV off and blow through it both directions, it should only go through one way. Even then, you're assuming you're blowing as hard as you're boosting, which...would be impressive.
 
Do a compression test, your engine might just be ready for a rebuild and you've got excessive blowby and low compression. Also, the PCV wouldn't fail to pull vacuum, it would fail to hold boost back, something you can't test on the car, you'd have to take the PCV off and blow through it both directions, it should only go through one way. Even then, you're assuming you're blowing as hard as you're boosting, which...would be impressive.

Okay ill do that today and post the results. It would suck if that is the problem but would be cool if I finally found the issue! Thanks!:cry:
 
My timing belt was has slack in it and I noticed that my auto tensoner may be old so I replaced the timing belt when I replaced the auto tensoner as well. I made sure all the marks lined up as I did last time and did my rotations of the crank shaft before removing the pin on the auto tensoner. Its still running at a high idle and showing vac leak. I also did a compression test and its show solid numbers across the board and is NOT blowing any kind of smoke what so ever out the exhaust. Im going to move forward with my original idea of running the stock ecu to see if that will change anything just to see if it is the piggy back that is making it run strange.

Any other suggestions?? Damn I wish I had one of the pro's around right now in person to look at it...:aha:
 
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