Headlight Motor issues

[beamer1341]

While Ive always had and issue with the lights not going all the way down everytime. I seem to have another issue now. When I turn the lights on either
1. they dont go up
2. one goes up
3. if i hit the flip button they go up and then hit the light switch they flip down.
I was thining maybe the MFS was going but they act just as crazy using the flip button.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Branden

 

[Djsniperwolf]

I was wiring my Fog lights to the Bright's switch one day and had the same problem, original owner had a paper clip shoved in the switch of the fog lights button.

Not sure if that is the problem, but I would check the wiring.

 

[beamer1341]

I was messing with the multi and if i twist the lights on HARD the motors move a bit more so I think i have either a bad switch or electrical issue hopfully just the switch. but what i dont get is why the flip button also causes problems

 

[Djsniperwolf]

I think you got it. For me it was the switch but the previous owner was the reason it was jacked up.

It is very easy to pull the bezel from the dash that hold the switches.. That way you can disconnect them and prod em with you voltmeter if you have one..

Test the input signal as well as the switch itself. I would almost bet it is your switch.

EDIT:

My fog light switch was completely shot, so I wired my fogs into the brights switch, that way when I engage my brights it is actually engaging my fogs. It works really well.

 

[DSM1G90]

so I wired my fogs into the brights switch, that way when I engage my brights it is actually engaging my fogs. It works really well.

Not the best thing to do since now you're overloading one circuit that wasn't designed for dual purpose and the wiring heading to the brights may not like having a double load attached to it and you could have an electrical fire.

DC is very wicked current and it loves to find connections that are the weakest - like a smaller wire gauge attached to a larger gauge along with spliced joints of two gauged wires attached is the first place that'll go due to high amounts of resistance being built there.

Thus, put fogs on their own circuit and fused by themselves, for they really pull the current down the wire.


Check the relays under the cover next to the passenger shock tower. There is one relay that controls the motors when you do either the headlight switch or the manual dash switch.

I had basically the same problem (either they both stayed up, or will act normally) until I found the relay had a bad connection and did a replacment.

 

[Djsniperwolf]

Not the best thing to do since now you're overloading one circuit that wasn't designed for dual purpose and the wiring heading to the brights may not like having a double load attached to it and you could have an electrical fire.

DC is very wicked current and it loves to find connections that are the weakest - like a smaller wire gauge attached to a larger gauge along with spliced joints of two gauged wires attached is the first place that'll go due to high amounts of resistance being built there.

Thus, put fogs on their own circuit and fused by themselves, for they really pull the current down the wire.


Check the relays under the cover next to the passenger shock tower. There is one relay that controls the motors when you do either the headlight switch or the manual dash switch.

I had basically the same problem (either they both stayed up, or will act normally) until I found the relay had a bad connection and did a replacment.

I forgot to add that the Brights have been disabled since I owned the car as the guy who owned it before me installed a crap xeon kit.. This kit caused the car to have LOW'S only removing the brights completely I did a measure of voltage on the circuit and am very much under the maximum pull allowed. All I did was bypass the bad switch on the fog lights to a circuit that isn't being used.

But I agree, completely forgot about the about the relay by the shock tower, that would be a good place to look.