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Headgasket

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yii96

Probationary Member
7
0
May 5, 2009
lost in the woods, Nebraska
Alrite i recently bought a 91 gsx for 500 bucks. :D
The previous owner said he replaced the headgasket but decide to go cheap and installed a autoparts store headgasket :ohdamn:and i dont think he changed the headstuds.So i have bought a mls cometic headgasket and arps.

my question is what is the diffuculty on changing the headgsket or if someone could guide me through this procces and what other things should i look for while im doing this?

thanks any help would be great.



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Just to clarify a few things, I've ran 'auto parts store' headgaskets with no issues on 4g63's, as have many others on here. In addition, the 6bolt head bolts do not stretch if they aren't overtorqued. I always replace them, but if they measure out as the same length, you can re-use them with no issues... they are not torque-to-yield. ARP's are always a good upgrade however... they put less wear and tear on your head threads if you ever have to do a head gasket again.

The head gasket on a 4g63 is very easy to replace. You can pull the head with the intake and exhaust manifold attached. My guess would be the previous owner didn't have the mating surface finished right, or they didn't torque the head down properly. Since you got a MLS gasket, I'd strongly recommend you not only have the head surfaced, but the block as well. The mating surface has to be perfectly flat and clean for a MLS to seal properly. That means you're going to be yanking out the block as well, if you want to do it right. However, if you don't want to go through the added expense and labor of pulling the whole engine, you can return that and go buy an 'auto parts store' composite head gasket. You'll still need to ensure there's no warping on the block mating surface, but composite gaskets are far more forgiving than MLS. The head's going to have to hit a machine shop either way you go.

While you're doing the head gasket, you're going to want to replace the timing belt, all the timing belt pulleys, water pump, tensioner, and the balance shaft belt (if it still has balance shafts). If you choose to just do the composite head gasket, I'd recommend this:
4G63 Mitsubishi Head Gasket Set 1989 - 4/92 - $58.00
4G63T Turbo Mounting Gaskets - $39.00
4G63 4G63T Mitsubishi Timing Kit Package 1All Engines '89 thru 1992 - $201.50

These would be all the parts you'd need to do the job, minus your head work.
 
For all the hassle of pulling the motor when you just want to replace the HG, I wouldn't use an MLS if I was you. If you don't surface the block and head properly for an MLS then you are asking for trouble and you would be better off just leaving it alone.

If you are hell bent on replacing it, then get an OEM composite and use the ARPs.

What are your HP goals and what boost do you want to run? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/344926-head-gasket-choice-s.html There are many threads like this if you want to research some more before you decide for yourself.

Like he^^said above. Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)
 
Alrite I been doing alot reading in diffrent threads about the headgaskets.

I really dont want to go throught the hassle of pulling the whole motor out so im deciding in selling the mls and buying a oem composite gasket kit, resurfacing the head and installing the arps.




My1GLaser,I really dont have hp goal right since the car is bone stock besides a evo3 turbo manifold. i will probaly just run around 15-20lbs of boost


I started to unplug all the sensor today and tommarow i will remove the head.

Im praying to god that head is good.:pray:
 
Just run the car as is until you HAVE to pull the head off. Ive ran big turbos on felpro headgaskets and stock head bolts before. Headgaskets only blow when engines are overheated or detonate from bad tuning.
 
My1GLaser,I really dont have hp goal right since the car is bone stock besides a evo3 turbo manifold. i will probaly just run around 15-20lbs of boost

I am with Broken TSI on just leaving the HG, especially if you are only going to run 15-20 psi. If it aint broke...don't fix it.

And calan is right on about running 15-20 psi on a bone stock car. Before you ask, search "how much psi can I run" or something similar. There are a million threads.
 
thanks for all the great info guys.


well today i took the head off and found out that the valves were hitting the pistons :(

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well yea it did it ran like crap thought. The turbo manifold was cracked and it was leaking oil from one of the oil lines and had a bad idle.

When i was taking the head i think previous owner didnt torque the bolts since they came out with no struggle.
 
It obviously looks like the valves did strike the pistons at one point. I don't think it was doing it now because the car was running. Also, I may have over looked this but I did not see a new timing belt on your list. Make sure you replace the belt, it will save you some down time and money down the line.
 
the only time i drove the car was when i put the car in the trailer to tow it to my house. Other than that it was parked at my house.
 
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