headgasket question (searched)

[636chris]

whats up guys. so after reading all the threads about people bickering back and worth about brands and yada yada of headgaskets. im stuck right now as to which one to get . the motor is a stock 6 bolt,with a t3 hx35 set up in the stock housing using an open scroll manifold , plus of course the proper supporting mods. i have arp's to go on with a new headgasket(standard). To my knowledge its never had a hg failure and it like to keep it that way. Soo before my motor goes back in the car i want to go a headgasket and timing belt job.

which is it oem mls /copper spray or oem composite w/or w/o copper spray.

I only want tried and true responses, no bs about my buddies cousins friend.

What has worked for you /personal experience.

plans are around 25 psi on this 8 blade hx35( will be a daily for the most part)

 

[BogusSVO]

If the block was not decked, use a composite.

 

[bastarddsm]

even it it was, use a composite. If you put a headgasket out with that turbo and the power it will make your tune is garbage or your deck is trash.

You'd also put out a mls, and when you "blow" a mls it likes to toch the block 'n head.

 

[636chris]

So what you both are saying is a composite hg dry with standard arps will work fine

And do you mean torch the head and block

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes a dry composite HG with ARP will be fine.

Think of the HG as a fuse. It will be the weak point if something goes wrong. SO it cuts loose. Not burning the block, or torching the head.

A blown HG is not the cause of a problem, but the result of one.

 

[WES_393]

I completely agree with Bogus and bastard. Composite is the way to go for your goals.

Also, if you have a 6-bolt, the stock head bolts are considered equal or better than standard ARP studs. If you upgrade at all, go L19 and you'll never have problems lifting the head (as a result of power at least).

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Or go the best ARPs You can buy then you will never have to worry about upgrading in the future.

 

[gprix1]

Just "fixed" an improperly installed MLS headgasket on mine and replaced it with an OEM composite. The key I think for running a composite is using the best studs that you can. I went with the MAP Ultimate Duty studs,clamped it down to 100lbs, and it's been working flawless.

 

[bastarddsm]

Just "fixed" an improperly installed MLS headgasket on mine and replaced it with an OEM composite. The key I think for running a composite is using the best studs that you can. I went with the MAP Ultimate Duty studs,clamped it down to 100lbs, and it's been working flawless.

No. The key is to not have a tune that sucks. 96% of people on here have no need for the heavy duty studs.

 

[BogusSVO]

This was a virgin block, with a machinist straight edge, a .0015 feeler gauge would not go under.

Block had .003 factory tilt.

After a .001 pass

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Just due to the age of the block, it needs decked.

 

[636chris]

So what's the torque for a composite hg and standard arp's ? I know I had to torque my mls on a fresh 2.4 stroker to over 110 to stop pushing coolant and that was a fresh block and head to start. I won't be going with bigger studs right now due to lack of money and quite frankly ill probably be worried about pushing the limits of the stock block before I need to have L19's installed . Right now I need the car togethere and reliable before I'm worried about pushing out any power so I'm starting with a fresh hg and timing belt.

 

[WES_393]

80 ft/lbs with Moly lube
120ft/lbs with 30 weight motor oil

You could go to 85-90 ft/lbs with moly if you want, but I wouldn't go any higher. All you'll do is put the stud closer to it's yield point, which increases the chance of them stretching.

 

[636chris]

I'm totally half awake and wa thinking of honda's with the bigger stud thing . How would I know if I have the apr L19's vs the standard arp's I got the studs with the car second hand(torqued to spec once) I am going to measure stretch of course before putting them in . If by any chance someone knows what the exceptable measurement for stretch is can you please post it

 

[WES_393]

ARP standards are black like so:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

ARP L19's are gold/brown like so:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

But considering ARP standards are around $90 while L19's are around $220, I'd say it's safe to assume they are standards.

The studs should have no deformities as a result of stretching. They are supposed to stretch "elastically" and return to their shape, not "plastically" which distorts/lengthens the studs and makes them brittle. This is why people reuse ARP studs so often, they rarely suffer permanent damage. So if they are stretched/deformed at all, do not use them. But that's also why you don't want to over torque them, they will simply stretch as you torque them resulting in less clamping strength.