420A Headers, Exhaust and muffler

[Adam915]

So I've got 2 questions first how long and how difficult is it to remove the Stock headers exhaust and muffler from a 97 non turbo eagle talon? Second, I want a muffler not a fart machine. What's a good deep sounding muffler?

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Not so difficult. Might encounter some rusty bolts but it's fairly simple. It's possible the studs are seized and you'll need to replace some so be prepared for that. For a non turbo talon everything stock is best.

 

[PlanZero]

Sawzall is your friend. A good cheapo eBay exhaust from DNA.

 

[gst-turbo]

Try removing them when the car is warm its make it a bit easier

 

[Drop Top Road Trip]

Soak any nut, bolt or screw that you will need to remove with P B Blaster. To remove the stock cat back from my catalytic converter I soaked the nuts / studs with the stuff for a couple of days with them wrapped in soaked paper towels and wrapped the whole thing with a plastic bag to keep the penetrating oil from evaporating. Worked like a charm.

Also, +1 on buying / borrowing a cheap Sawz-all. I used a hack saw and had a sore arm for about a day.

 

[keltalon]

Yeah as stated above spray/soak the nuts. There are a few bolts in this area you definitely don't want to break for sure it will turn a simple job into a nightmare very quickly!!

 

[simplejoe]

On my talon I had to soak the manifold bolts for a few days to get them off, still broke 2 of them. Take your time and when you get frustrated, walk away for a min. Besides that it was a fairly simple install.

 

[Adam915]

Please excuse my ignorance, a year ago I had an engine overhaul the head was bored out and cleaned and most valves were replaced. I'm assuming at least the exhaust manifold was removed so it may not be too hard to remove? Correct me if I'm wrong. Exhaust and header project is coming up for my talon in January

 

[cmehlxl]

+1 work on it while it's "warm"- dont start wrenching after its sat overnight- the ambient heat will keep it a little easier to get the bolts out.

Make sure you have the right header gasket and you properly remove the old one. and use all of the gaskets for the exhaust pipe otherwise you;ll leak and have some additional noise.

 

[PlanZero]

I know on my Tsi a racheting wrench for the manifold nuts helped a helluva lot.
1) remove heat shields
2) Soak with PB all manifold nuts, 02 sensors and hangar bolts.
3) Loosen manifold nuts while car is warm
4) disconnect 02 sensors .
5) remove rubber hangar bolts
6)now that it's loose, start cutting into sections.Remove from car.
7) if you plan on reusing the stock cat, which I don't recommend, use a torch (propane works fine) and heat the bolts for like 5 full minutes each. Once they're glowing they'll come out easily. Do one at a time. Same goes for the 02 sensors. Borrow an 02 socket.
8) installation is 100x easier. I like to hang all the exhaust pieces then bolt them together on the car.

 

[Adam915]

So from looking online I've seen the headers I want and the cat back exhaust I want. Just need the right catilytic converter.

 

[Adam915]

Suggestions on a good cat. converter? Also I suppose I should do a compression test before I upgrade my entire exhaust system

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

What is your budget?

Are you looking for a slip style, or flange style?

What performance are you looking for?

• Flow
• Emission conversion

Cell count can play a roll here. The higher the cell count (400), the less flow, but greater emission conversion. Conversely, the lower the cell count (100) for lower emission conversion, but increased flow. There are two basic types; ceramic and metallic. Ceramic cores are usually cheaper, and do not care for vibration. Metallic cores are usually more expensive, but would likely never need replacement from failure. Don't let this steer you from a ceramic core though, there is usually padding to dampen vibration. There are also two common construction types as well; 409 and 304 stainless. 304 is more expensive as it is more corrosion resistant.

Once you decide on these questions, recommendations would be appropriate.


On an unrelated topic, your strut towers need to be addressed from a safety standpoint...

 

[Adam915]

My answer may be a little vague but from what I've seen as far as headers and cat back exhaust I'm lookin at roughly 200-250 I guess my budget would be around 300-350. Trying to avoid the 400 mark. So far I've only installed a short ram intake. I'm looking for added horse power. I don't plan on installing Nas and obviously I'm keeping it non turbo. Lookin at changing the intake manifold and throttle body and the fuel injectors as well. For the most part I want my engine to run healthy without beating it up. I've also changed the spark plug wires nothing fancy just your everyday run of the mill auto zone wires.

 

[Adam915]

If I go with a test pipe instead of a cat. Converter can I still pass the emissions in Texas

 

[ThunderChild]

Long tube or a 4-2-1 header for n/a 4 cylinders are my recommendation.
U shouldn't need to change injectors if youre staying n/a.
Same for intake manifold, unless you want the look and enjoy not getting into power till 4k+ rpms.
Throttle body you can change, but don't expect massive gains. Best would be to port match what you have now.
If they do any kind of visual inspection in texas, you won't be able to pass without a cat. I've passed in Washington without one on a different car, but I wouldn't rely on that. For about 350-400 u should be able to get an entire exhaust, mostly bolt on, including a high flow cat. You will have to shop around and make sure everything will bolt together, otherwise you will spend a bit more having to take it to an exhaust shop for welding.

 

[Adam915]

Any good methods on cleaning my fuel injectors? Been told not to replace them I don't mind buying O.E. injectors. Don't mind removing them to clean em either..... on s side note how do I know how much tension to put on my tensioner for my power steering or if my pulley is aligned correctly. Been having issues.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

My answer may be a little vague but from what I've seen as far as headers and cat back exhaust I'm lookin at roughly 200-250 I guess my budget would be around 300-350. Trying to avoid the 400 mark. So far I've only installed a short ram intake. I'm looking for added horse power. I don't plan on installing Nas and obviously I'm keeping it non turbo. Lookin at changing the intake manifold and throttle body and the fuel injectors as well. For the most part I want my engine to run healthy without beating it up. I've also changed the spark plug wires nothing fancy just your everyday run of the mill auto zone wires.

You aren't going to get any power out of the car. Your best best would be to either stop what you're doing and leave it stock, sell it and get something else, or get the exhaust and a tune if you're dead set on keeping it. Depending on the positioning of the intake, your power may have either decreased slightly (If you are sucking in hot air from being too close to the exhaust manifold) or gained maybe 5. A simple tune will net you the greatest power gain, still not much. All mods just unlock the potential, the tune releases it. Don't take this the wrong way because hondas CAN be awesome, but if you have another car, go pick up an f-series single cam powered honda and throw a dsm manifold and 14b on there. Or get a b-series car. Either will be quicker than this and probably be more reliable if you dont get too carried away.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Any good methods on cleaning my fuel injectors? Been told not to replace them I don't mind buying O.E. injectors. Don't mind removing them to clean em either..... on s side note how do I know how much tension to put on my tensioner for my power steering or if my pulley is aligned correctly. Been having issues.

Enough to keep it from squeaking. I think like 3/16s deflection IIRC

 

[ThunderChild]

If u really want to, you can send your injectors out to be sonic cleaned and flowed, as that is the only true way to clean and test them.

LIke chumpaumpalumpa said. You won't make much with boltons, it will just become loud and annoying most likely.

Not that u can't take an n/a 4g63 places, there are just other, more rewarding routes. It's all up to you, just heed the advice you've gotten.

 

[99GS4G63Swap]

pick up a chiltons, haynes or FSM, it will help guide you through disassembly and reassembly.

stock bolts are TTY i believe, probably why it broke. you will have to take off all the accessories on the front of the engine. power steering, alt, water pump pulley, tensioner and harmonic balancer. then you will have to support the engine and remove the motor mount (youre halfway there it looks like) and then you can access the timing belt cover to remove it. IIRC, there are 12, 10mm bolts holding the lower cover on.

at this point, you might as well get some fresh seals/gaskets and a timing belt kit. depending if you can get that bolt out of the block, you might consider getting some arp head studs to go in place of another set of TTY bolts.

Hey man are you still around, would love to pick your brain about the exhaust system I’m looking at getting put in. Feel free to get in touch for details.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Hey man are you still around, would love to pick your brain about the exhaust system I’m looking at getting put in. Feel free to get in touch for details.

It's been 5 years since the last reply to this thread. Likely you won't get any responses. But you could always make a new thread for your questions or you could pm me and I'll help where I can. I've had a few 420a engines and have a little bit of knowledge about modifications to them.

 

[99GS4G63Swap]

It's been 5 years since the last reply to this thread. Likely you won't get any responses. But you could always make a new thread for your questions or you could pm me and I'll help where I can. I've had a few 420a engines and have a little bit of knowledge about modifications to them.

Thanks man. Should have a post up in the newbie forums, 420a mods, and maybe the regular intake/exhaust. Really just looking at what a solid exhaust would be from the block back.