The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Header Wrap [Merged 3-8] thermal DEI headers exhaust

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Any pics? good stuff, i didnt know about it helping with spool-up also. i def. like the thought of keeping the temps 'normal' so to speak
 
blcknspo0ln- so spool for you went from 3600-3600. LOL meaning it stayed the same correct. and thanks i had researched guess i had forgot or looked over those write-ups.
 
makes sense i had just never heard of that. good stuff! i like the idea of doing it, i've burnt myself plenty of times LOL.
 
blcknspo0ln- so spool for you went from 3600-3600. LOL meaning it stayed the same correct. and thanks i had researched guess i had forgot or looked over those write-ups.

well usually when you add cams and a SMIM your spool is a little slower but makes up for it in the higher rpms ...what he is saying I guess is with the add of the heat wrap it put his spool time back at 3600rpms !

It works and is a good idea to do for the sake of heat and you being burned :thumb:
 
Dan and I both have writeups. My experience is that even with wrapping and coating, underhood temps are definitely still hotter than a stock manifold with heat shield. I'm sure dan is having better luck because his t3 manifold was jet-coated also.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256157
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257470

on a brighter note, spoolup went from full boost at 3600, to 3600 :thumb: Well, that's after FP2 cams and JMF SMIM. :OMG:

Did you have the tubular mani on before without the wrap or did you wrap it before you installed it? I also had mine ceramic coated before I wrapped it so I am hoping for less heat. I will take some pics and let you guys know how the change is when I get it all done.:thumb:
 
well usually when you add cams and a SMIM your spool is a little slower but makes up for it in the higher rpms ...what he is saying I guess is with the add of the heat wrap it put his spool time back at 3600rpms !

It works and is a good idea to do for the sake of heat and you being burned :thumb:


1. i had no idea about cams causing slower spool/ and SMIM also. i thought they would help. LOL.

2. which brand wrap is everyone using i know theres a few different ones.
 
the cams and intake manifold will lower the spool time but its not but a few 100 RPMS ...not really a big deal IMO

I am using DEI & DEI Spray (silver)....just follow the direction and sock the stuff in water and then wrap it as tight as possible and use some hose clamps or what have you let it dry out over night and it will get stiff and tight as shit ....and then spray light coats of the sealant allow them to some what dry and do that about 3 or 4 times ...light coats cover better than you spraying alot on it the 1st time ...then if possible start your car and drive it around for about 15-20 min to allow the spary to bake and thats it (not to bad)

I bought my DEI exhaust wrap from ExtreamePSI and had it in 3 day
 
Did you have the tubular mani on before without the wrap or did you wrap it before you installed it? I also had mine ceramic coated before I wrapped it so I am hoping for less heat. I will take some pics and let you guys know how the change is when I get it all done.:thumb:
Wrap before you install it. It will make it 10x easier.
 
thanks alot, i'm liking this kinda information! def. a big help and heads up for when i do mine!
 
agreed on wrapping before installation...it just makes sense right?:cool:

also if you seal it right you shouldn't have any problems with 'trapping moisture' i would suggest checking up on it from time to time to make sure the seal hasn't broken or anything...
 
If you coat it before you wrap it will the coating help act as a barrier so rust doesn't happen under the wrap?
 
Of course I wrapped it while it was off. IT would be near impossible otherwise. I did not get mine wet I hope that it still works ok. I just got it all back together and started. It seems a bit better but like the other guy said still hotter than a cast mani with the heat sheild.
 
Yeah my stupid ass did not read the directions. So far so good it has not fallen off or anything. It did help with the heat just not as much as I was hoping. I must have unrealistic goals. The box says it cuts down 70% of the heat. I would say more like 25%.
 
I take it you must have had this problem ....did you use the silicon spray over the wrap to seal it ?

I know guy's that have also done this and sprayed theirs and have ran for many years to date without a problem :confused:

My friend had this problem on his honduh. He daily drove it and after 2 years it started to crack little by little.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257470

Dan didn't soak his at all (I helped him wrap it). His still stayed pretty tight.

Those steel ties definitely suck though. You can only get them so tight, and it's usually not tight enough. When I wrapped my wastegate dump tube, I used worm clamps on each end. It holds better than those metal ties ever could.
 
Those metal ties are a joke. I could not get them very tight. So far it is staying tight and has not came loose.
 
Is that so when it drys it shrinks a little and is even tighter than before?

yes once I soaked it for about 1 min it was pretty slippery ....so I wraped it and it still seemed to be loose so I just let it dry and it got tight enough to where I could not lift the wrap in spots with my finger nail as I could with it wet !
 
Those steel ties definitely suck though. You can only get them so tight, and it's usually not tight enough. When I wrapped my wastegate dump tube, I used worm clamps on each end. It holds better than those metal ties ever could.

Yeah the metal straps where a big waste of $8 LOL ....regular hose clamps worked 10 times better :thumb:
 
Those clamps work GREAT! But you have to use the proper tool with them. A CV joint banding tool is required to get them tight enough. My friend used them on his mustang and you can actually tighten them down enough to break the steel band with the tool. Just FYI
 
Those clamps work GREAT! But you have to use the proper tool with them. A CV joint banding tool is required to get them tight enough. My friend used them on his mustang and you can actually tighten them down enough to break the steel band with the tool. Just FYI

I did that as well ......and broke them becuase they still did not get tight enough to keep the soaked wrap from slipping when I was wraping ....The HOSE CLAMPS worked the best for me !
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top