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Head swap horrible noise. Lifter problem?

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If you have any sort of rod/main bearing damage, pull the crank and have it checked.

Clean the crank, get the oil galley balls on the crank thows removed.
 
If you have any sort of rod/main bearing damage, pull the crank and have it checked.

Clean the crank, get the oil galley balls on the crank thows removed.

Ok I actually have 2 spare 6bolt cranks, I just can't remember the condition of them. The visually look good, so I'm gonna drop them off at the machine shop and get them both checked out, cleaned, and polished. Then I'll order my oil pump and bearings.

How hard is it to get the bearings out for a bse with the motor in the car? Mine has a bse already but I would like to knock them out just to make sure they flipped the bearings to block the oil holes.
 
You should be able to take a flashlight to check the holes and make sure they are blocked.

When facing the engine from the front case, the BS oil holes are at appox the 2 O'clock position.

If you see the bearing hole elsewere, you should see block casting thu it.

Before you take the crank to the machine shop, take it to a welding shop, and have them tig and deform the oil galley balls out of the crank.

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With the oil galley ball removed.. you can see all the crud packed behind it.

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Do you want this crud to come loose and end up in your rod bearings?
 

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You should be able to take a flashlight to check the holes and make sure they are blocked.

When facing the engine from the front case, the BS oil holes are at appox the 2 O'clock position.

If you see the bearing hole elsewere, you should see block casting thu it.

Before you take the crank to the machine shop, take it to a welding shop, and have them tig and deform the oil galley balls out of the crank.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


With the oil galley ball removed.. you can see all the crud packed behind it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Do you want this crud to come loose and end up in your rod bearings?

How hard is it to turn the bearing if it's not already turned? I've heard I'd was a pain with the motor out I can't imagine in the car.
 
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Depends on what you have for tools to work with, If you have a seaal/race installer kit it should not be too bad.

Or you can just do the "poor man" bse... Leave the front shaft there, just do not install the belt for it.

It will restrict the oil, and you will not have the high oil pressure normaly found with a BSE
 
Ok new oil pump same problem?? I replaced it with a oem oil pump and I'm still not getting oil to the head. Only thing that I can think of is I somehow put the hg on wrong. I saw some pics posted of every way the hg can go on and the only way it would work the wrong way has some of the hg sticking out but I don't see any gasket sticking out anywhere. I'm so mad at this car I'm about to give up honestly. Sucks I blew a turbo and decided to pull the head for studs to hold up to the holset and now there is nothing but problems. I don't know what to do other than pulling the motor completely and redoing it. Or just wait till tax time and build the spare block I have from the ground up.
 
Did you pack the oil pump(s) with greese?

If yes, this may be the clog going to the head, causing no oil flow up into the head.
 
Proper gasket between the oil pick up screen and oil pump/front case?
 
Did you use any RTV on the front case gasket or the OFH gasket?
 
Did you use any RTV on the front case gasket or the OFH gasket?

I did awhile back but not this time. A few months beforr i blew the turbo i fixed a leak on the ofh with rtv. Non was used this time.
 
So you fixed an OFH leak a few months ago with RTV.
Then you replaced the front cover/oil pump 2? 3? times now.

It makes me think you may have a wad of RTV blocking the vert. oil passage to the head.

I hate to say this, but the only way to confirm this is by pulling the OFH and front case. and a good chance the head.

Then blow the vert oil passage with compressed air, and with a rag, catch the RTV wad when it comes out the main oil galley just behind the front case.
 
So you fixed an OFH leak a few months ago with RTV.
Then you replaced the front cover/oil pump 2? 3? times now.

It makes me think you may have a wad of RTV blocking the vert. oil passage to the head.

I hate to say this, but the only way to confirm this is by pulling the OFH and front case. and a good chance the head.

Then blow the vert oil passage with compressed air, and with a rag, catch the RTV wad when it comes out the main oil galley just behind the front case.

Honestly im tired of olaying with it is justa stock motor anyway. Im going to build the spare blovk i havr over the next few months and transplant the heac and everythjng else to it. I think it will be less hassle to start fresh.

What all would you recommend for machine work to the block. One of the block cylinder aalls has a little scuff that may hone out but im going to go ahead and have it bored .20 over and the rotating assemble balanced.
 
Have the bore/hone done with a torque plate, if it is avaiable.

Deck the block.

With the rotating assembly being balanced.

Have the oil galley balls from the crank removed so those passages can be fully cleand.
Tap and plug with set screws.
 
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