1G Head could not be removed until ARP head studs removed.

[4gfun]

I had a built head installed on my tsi AWD 6 bolt project that I never completed.

I went to remove that head and spent at least a good 15 minutes trying to pull it up thinking that I was just feeling weak that day.

Turns out that I could not remove the head without pulling the ARP head studs and washers. The head was a 1g 7bolt head with the holes reamed out so that the 6 bolt studs would fit.

Once I pulled the studs and washers it was so easy to pull the head.

This doesn't seem right. It bothers me that I had to disturb those head studs that were torqued in properly with the correct ARP lube.

I don't want to go through this when I pull the head on my GVR-4.

Pointers? Does that seem right? Thanks!

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I bet that the holes for the studs need to be opened up a little more. I used a 1/2 drill bit to the holes on my 1g 7-bolt head. You could see if a 1/2 inch drill bit fits through the holes in the head, or try the studs.

 

[4gfun]

I bet that the holes for the studs needs to be opened up a little more. I used a 1/2 drill bit to the holes on my 1g 7-bolt head. You could see if a 1/2 inch drill bit fits through the holes in the head, or try the studs.

Heh, so not normal then. Would almost rather remove those head studs than drill the head a bit more. Hmmm...thanks!

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I ran into that problem when assembling the engine for the Laser. I assumed it was a 6-bolt head due solely because of the intake ports. It wasn't all that bad to do.

 

[donniekak]

Lots of setups are like this. If the block or head aren't decked perfectly perpendicular to the studs they get stuck.

 

[lasthope05]

You're not torquing the studs to the block so i don't see what the issue is. They are only suppose to go in finger tight or snug.

 

[4gfun]

Never stopped to think about this. Thanks.