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Head Bolt Replacement Question

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pdc

15+ Year Contributor
65
0
Oct 2, 2007
Mount Solon, Virginia
Can I safely remove the head bolts one at a time, and replace them with ARP studs without any problem? I'm trying to prolong my old stock 130k head gasket for a while longer while running higher boost levels 20-26 psi. I figure the ARP's wouldn't stretch under higher boost and keep the likelihood of blowing the head gasket minimized. Sorry for the Newb question, but I am a newb in the newb forum.
 
Does that seem like a good plan for preventative maintenance, or would it not really matter much?
 
You want to minimize the chance of blowing a stock 130k mile headgasket at 20-26psi?
Sorry, but in my opinion, you should do a headgasket and replace the headbolts at the same time. I also believe that there is a reason that headbolts or studs are supposed to be torqued in series. The head is soft aluminum, so you run the risk of warping the head doing them one at a time. Take it for what it is worth.
 
You want to minimize the chance of blowing a stock 130k mile headgasket at 20-26psi?
Sorry, but in my opinion, you should do a headgasket and replace the headbolts at the same time. I also believe that there is a reason that headbolts or studs are supposed to be torqued in series. The head is soft aluminum, so you run the risk of warping the head doing them one at a time. Take it for what it is worth.


I plan on doing a complete rebuild. I just want to buy some time (hopefully a year or 2) before I do. Yes I could just keep the boost down. But that wouldn't be fun :). I just finished spending $7000 on this car.
 
It's a good idea for those boost levels on any engine. When doing the replacement follow the install and torque patterns in the service manual.
 
Can I safely remove the head bolts one at a time, and replace them with ARP studs without any problem? I'm trying to prolong my old stock 130k head gasket for a while longer while running higher boost levels 20-26 psi. I figure the ARP's wouldn't stretch under higher boost and keep the likelihood of blowing the head gasket minimized. Sorry for the Newb question, but I am a newb in the newb forum.

I recommend against it. I never heard of anyone doing it this way. And it would suck for you to be the test mule if you just dropped $7000 into the car. Logically it sounds like it would ok, but sometimes logic will steer you wrong.

It's a good idea for those boost levels on any engine. When doing the replacement follow the install and torque patterns in the service manual.

Herndon?!? How have we not met yet?
 
It's a good idea for those boost levels on any engine. When doing the replacement follow the install and torque patterns in the service manual.
Torque pattern is only half of the requirements, they're suppose to be torqued down in two to three steps to avoid warping the head. Therefore the answer to OP's question is NO, it's a terrible idea.
 
Agreed with oldman, do it right do it once. Get a 3 layer metalic head gasket, pull the head all the way off, clean the hell out of the surfaces, install studs, spray hg with hightach spray and let sit for 5 minutes. Then set the hg on the block and put the head on, then torque them in series. Like said before it's not worth spending 7g's then warping you head and regardless of arp studs you will be blowing hg's left right and center.
 
It's a good idea for those boost levels on any engine. When doing the replacement follow the install and torque patterns in the service manual.


exactly, torque each one as it's replaced and you should be fine, but honestly i'd throw a new HG in there and do it right or you may find yourself pulling the head again to replace it if it does blow on 26 PSI ..the ARP's aren'ta garauntee that it's going to hold and the older it is and with the chance of the old bolts having already stretched some it may be partially dmaged already.
 
Well, I think I will keep the boost down to 20psi or so and hope for the best. I did re-torque the head bolts to spec when I recently put in new cam seals. This motor runs quite strong, and I hope to go at least a year or 2 before I rebuild.

Thanks for the input.
 
Keep in mind once those arp head studs are installed once, they're done. There is no reusing them. Also, I would recommend following the arp instructions, not the service manual, as I believe they vary slightly from recent memory. If your going to go that far, you might as well do the timing belt as well. (Every 60,000 recommended) IMO, the added power your going to gain isn't worth the risk, especially only tuning with a safc. Just my thoughts...:dsm:
 
The information I got off the magnus head stud thread spoke against using the arps again, but I guess that would be for applications exceeding 1000 hp. Sorry for any confusion! Imo, if I got it tore down that far I'm spending the extra money and replacing them. To eaches own I guess.
 
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