1G Having tranny issues at high rpm.... ( 5 speed)

[idoke1]

I currently have a 92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. Its a stock and 5 speed manual.

The only issue I have is that at high RPMs (7K), it won't go into 2nd or 4th gear. I have to baby it into the gear or else the engine just revs and the tranny is not in gear (even if the stick is in 4th gear). There's no grinding. It shifts fine when your driving normal but when in "aggressive" mode, it just won't go in. As a result, my best 1/4 mile time was 15.9 and my worst was 16.8. I was really unhappy with the results.

I hope it can be a easy fix. But damn, it might be the tranny as well. I do smell the clutch burning as well too. Let me know. Thanks

 

[dented_coffee]

I'm experiencing the same things but mine grinds some times. When it grinds it scares the crap out of me and i pull it back into neutral with the quickness. I changed the clutch out and it still does the same.

My flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly when the previous owner had it done. They did the disks face but not the pressure plate mounting ears. So my clutch will continue to slip until I get a new flywheel. I have been told by many people that know DSM's that it might be one of these problems or all of them .

trans
synchronizers
defective pressure plate
clutch springs
clutch release fork and pivot ball
flywheel
shift forks

I'm replacing everything on that list starting with the cheapest things first. I'm still looking for a 7-bolt AWD flywheel. I did notice that replacing the clutch made it stop for the first day or 2 then it started doing it again.

 

[DSM1G90]

Changed out the fluid any to a good synthetic type .. like Redline MT-90 or similar?

Could be that the bearings inside the tranny get hot from those high revs and are seizing some due to weak viscosity of the fluid.

But, if you did change out the fluid, then please disregard the suggestion above, but still think something is getting hot and want to seize up a bit..

 

[idoke1]

I'm experiencing the same things but mine grinds some times. When it grinds it scares the crap out of me and i pull it back into neutral with the quickness. I changed the clutch out and it still does the same.

My flywheel was resurfaced incorrectly when the previous owner had it done. They did the disks face but not the pressure plate mounting ears. So my clutch will continue to slip until I get a new flywheel. I have been told by many people that know DSM's that it might be one of these problems or all of them .

trans
synchronizers
defective pressure plate
clutch springs
clutch release fork and pivot ball
flywheel
shift forks

I'm replacing everything on that list starting with the cheapest things first. I'm still looking for a 7-bolt AWD flywheel. I did notice that replacing the clutch made it stop for the first day or 2 then it started doing it again.

Damn...I'm thinking it could be the pressure plate or the flywheel. Possibly the shift forks. I'll check it out and see.

Changed out the fluid any to a good synthetic type .. like Redline MT-90 or similar?

Could be that the bearings inside the tranny get hot from those high revs and are seizing some due to weak viscosity of the fluid.

But, if you did change out the fluid, then please disregard the suggestion above, but still think something is getting hot and want to seize up a bit..

Yup, I changed the tranny fluid last month already. Didn't see any metal flaking. Its quite odd?

 

[red1993gsallmt]

clucth drag, put the car in gear on level ground and rev it up to 7k and see if it starts to creep.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Its called lockout.

 

[Evo Dna]

I had that problem i changed the clutch and flywheel still had it but very little. Then i put thicker syncro fluid and it went it perfect. If you haven't damaged your syncro's then put some thicker fluid and it should help you.

 

[idoke1]

I had that problem i changed the clutch and flywheel still had it but very little. Then i put thicker syncro fluid and it went it perfect. If you haven't damaged your syncro's then put some thicker fluid and it should help you.

What type of fluid should I put in?

clucth drag, put the car in gear on level ground and rev it up to 7k and see if it starts to creep.

It doesn't creep.

Its called lockout.

Damn... if that is the issue, I'm going new tranny.... I don't want to fix the lockout inside the tranny... i haven't done that before...

 

[TSimage]

What part of Sacramento are you located?

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

clucth drag, put the car in gear on level ground and rev it up to 7k and see if it starts to creep.

Yep. +1. Which also cuases lockout. ACT are notorious for it. Try adjusting your clutch or get a different one.

You adjust your clutch, you rebleed and adjust the master cylinder for correct pedal play.

 

[93xsg]

Do you ever have problems getting into reverse? Just note that 2 4 r are all run off the same shifter arm/cable. I had similar issues with my car except I couldn't even get it in reverse. It could be hitting somethin in the engine bay; shifter cable could be strecthed too.

Just a thought

 

[AWDtalontsi96]

Lock out is cause by your clutch not the tranny . ACT clutchs are know to have high rpm clutch lock out. Even worse with the pucked design. What clutch are you running? If it is a ACT clutch they recommend a shim under the pivot ball to give you a little extra release. Not sure how thick , but ive heard at least the thickness of arp head stud washer. I have a act clutch 6 puck. with their street light fly wheel. I shift at 8500 rpms and have no lock out.

 

[talontime69]

I’m having exactly the same issue. Shift cables are working fine. Brand new southbend clutch, tob, pressure plate and flywheel. Shifts normally except when drag racing 2nd and 4th act like neutrals.