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Having car dynoed today

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gsxeclipse97

15+ Year Contributor
1,255
2
Nov 7, 2004
Cedar Park, Texas
So after 8 years of having my car I'm going to have it dynoed for the first time. Unfortunately most boost I can run is 14 psi because other wise it will fuel cut. But it should be an great day! Hoping for at least 250 whp I should hook up the logger while this is going on so I can get a good sense of everything as well.

So 177hp and 190tq almost makes me want to stop working on the car. We are in DIRE NEED of a tune on this thing.
 
Here's the stock 2g fuel map:
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The ECU uses RPM and Load (basically airflow) to determine how much fuel to deliver. The number in the cells is the target air fuel ratio (AFR). During WOT your going to land in the blue area, so the ECU is aiming for 10.3-9.5 AFR. Using an SAFC or different MAF will result in a leaner AFR but will also raise timing and eventually cause knock. This is why you need a proper tuning and logging device to make more power. All the bolt-ons in the world aren't going to change the ECU's programming.
 

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So basically your always on stock power no matter what you put on the car. Why does adding parts seem to make the car faster? Ok well I will had the extra pin on the car today so I can try to get ecu flash stuff working.
 
bolt ons ect can increase power. but if there are mechanicle issues and/or boost leaks, and from what sounds like some kinda problem with your ecu (running rich). the power could be lost. there are no check engine lights on? did you check for leaks? how does the car idle?
 
bolt ons ect can increase power. but if there are mechanicle issues and/or boost leaks, and from what sounds like some kinda problem with your ecu (running rich). the power could be lost. there are no check engine lights on? did you check for leaks? how does the car idle?

Car idles great, the only code that come up are for the cat and egr, codes but there are none on the car, checked for leaks and have found nothing so far. I went to the store to pick up that 2.5mm jack to do the reflash so I will order a wide band and the 2.0 tatrix cable next week.
 
I wonder if the ecu is dumping fuel due to those codes. either way your reflash should take care of that. Be sure to do an oil change as running rich puts gas in your oil. It will be interesting to see how much hp you gain after the ecu flash.
 
Are you awd or fwd. I see around 247ishwhp on your 14b after flash tune. This assumes you run about 18psi of boost.
 
bolt ons ect can increase power. but if there are mechanicle issues and/or boost leaks, and from what sounds like some kinda problem with your ecu (running rich). the power could be lost. there are no check engine lights on? did you check for leaks? how does the car idle?

I wonder if the ecu is dumping fuel due to those codes. either way your reflash should take care of that. Be sure to do an oil change as running rich puts gas in your oil. It will be interesting to see how much hp you gain after the ecu flash.

What indicates that the engine is running abnormally rich? Those CEL's are purely emissions related and won't affect performance. The mechanical problem they indicate can be ignored since there's no EGR or Cat installed on the vehicle. The OP also hasn't said anything about black smoke, bad gas mileage, or sputtering. In fact, the car put down very decent numbers for basically stock turbo/boost and no tune. Like I explained in my previous post, the factory tune targets AFR's all the way down to 9.5:1.
 
On a full tank of gas I get 300 miles before the gas light comes on. The car does sputter a little bit sometimes but usually in second gear only under light load. Sometimes there is bkackish smoke under wot. But that may be due to there being no cat so everything comes out the back.
 
So I put on the injectors on along with my new maf, I haven't leaned out the fuel yet. I did turn up the boost and on evo scan imaginary dyno it said the car made 265 whp and 250 tq. 0n 15 psi I've tried turning it up higher but it will only spike a little and settle back to 15
 
So I leaned out the fuel today and set the gear ratios correctly in the evo scan dyno. Leaned out the fuel to 10.5 and raised the boost to 19psi. Now the car on the evo scan dyno day 212 whp and 220 tq.. No signs of knock at all. I guess the question is how accurate is the virtual dyno? The car is definitely much faster now though.
 
Don't you have to enter the car's weight for that too?

If it's anything like ecmlink's dyno, then if if everything is entered correctly it's pretty accurate. Be sure and use the same flat piece of road for comparisons.
 
Ill do another log once I get home but it made a big difference.. Up top it pulls pretty good. And there's no knock so I figured I was good.

From 89% to 100% throttle position 11* climbing to 16* degrees timing
 
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