Has anyone ever put a 1g tranny in a 2g?

[silvawolfe]

If so is there pics of the mounts. I got a "good" deal on a 2g manual tranny for my 6bolt swap that turned out to be trashed.
I still have my 1g man tranny and I know it will not just bolt in I would just like to see what other peole have done about the mounts.
I really cannot afford to spend more money on another tranny.

 

[GRNDSM]

1G tranny lacks tranny mounting bosses which are REQUIRED for 2G install, so this isn't something that you can easily do...

 

[raped]

you can swap your 1g parts into your 2g trans

 

[silvawolfe]

you can swap your 1g parts into your 2g trans

it would be easier for me to make new mounts. I guess I'll be doing alittle fabricating in the morning!

 

[raped]

let us know when its done and post some pics.

 

[silvawolfe]

well its done and with good results. The tranny engine/trans is alittle crooked(about 1/2")but this winter the tranny is getting rebuilt because of bad sycros so I plan to redo the mounts.
With alittle 1/4" thick flatbar a cheap little arc welder and stock mounts I was able to fab up new mounts.
The passenger side required no welding instead the old mount was cut out and ground down then I simply drilled holes through the unibody just like the 1g had then bolted it in.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

the front mount was easy as well and even uses the stock mounting holes

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

there was absolutly no movement when I set the engines weight on them

]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The rear mount was a pain simply because it was getting late, I was getting hot, and my drill batteries are not holding a charge for very long so I would drill a hole then I would have to wait for a charged battery.
The rear mount I just welded five layers together and added a gusset on the bottom, although I did have to drill new holes in the sub frame and use a nut and bolt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Keep in mind this is just ment to be a fun work car and not a high horsepower car but with alittle more time spent on the mounts, I see no reason why they will not hold up.
I'm already thinking about making mounts using a cheap prothane motor mount(If I'm gonna be cutting and welding why not have a strong poly setup?)

There was actually several parts from my 1g I was able to use.
The 1g drivers side axel was a direct fit.
The 1g shifter assembly and cables work fine but three new holes need to be drilled in the driveshaft hump(1 bolt lines up with an existing hole). Sits dead center in the console opening.
The 2g automatic passengers side axel works with the 1 g manual tranny.

When I rebuild the tranny this winter I will certainly get a mig welder and wire my garage for 220VAC, its a pain to weld anything thicker than a pop can with a hobby arc!
Minus the waiting for the charger, and the constant tripping of the circuit breaker byt the welder;I would say each mount took an average of an hour to build and the side mount took less the 15min!

So far I've put about 200 miles on the setup and have noticed nothing wrong with the setup

 

[raped]

nice work did you weld the mounts to the block?

 

[silvawolfe]

nice work did you weld the mounts to the block?

No I used the original mounting brakets that were already on the engine. This way when I pull the motor again in a few months when I can afford to do more, it will be a simple bolt in.
I am already planning to use polyurethane mounts from a camaro and make new and nicer brakets that will use factory holes in the back as well as the front.

 

[silvawolfe]

Just alittle update on the swap.
I've put almost 700 mi on it and decided to check all my mounts and found that my engine was actually setting back over 1/2". After moving the engine I immediatly developed a nasty transfer case leak because the drive shaft was too short.
So I swaped the front section of the 95 ds with the 91 ds and all is well now. The front section of the 91 ds is about 1 1/2" longer than the 95.


Other than the cost involved in finding a 2g tranny are there any other benefits of a 1g tranny?

 

[GRNDSM]

First, I must say that I admire your perseverance and enthusiasm! But I stand by my earlier statement that this is a terrible idea! The odds of you putting the engine in the right position are rather slim and when it is not in a proper position you are placing extra stress on your axles and your drive shaft. This isn’t something that will be evident right away, but my bet is that these axles are not going to last very long…

I have also seen what happens when welds on just one motor mount let go… The motor spins inside the engine bay, leaving a terrible mess of mangled parts and car sheet metal.

As for 1G trannies, they generally do not shift as well (worse synchros design), but 91-92 trannies do have stronger 3-4 gears. But that is a reason to swap in those parts into a 2G tranny rather than using a 1G tranny in a 2G .

 

[silvawolfe]

The odds of you putting the engine in the right position are rather slim and when it is not in a proper position you are placing extra stress on your axles and your drive shaft. This isn’t something that will be evident right away, but my bet is that these axles are not going to last very long…

I have also seen what happens when welds on just one motor mount let go… The motor spins inside the engine bay, leaving a terrible mess of mangled parts and car sheet metal.

.

I assure you that my crappy welds can easily support a measly "200" HP. For a cheap easy way of getting my work car drivable, I think this is excellent idea. This is not the first time I have completed a swap like this. There are several cars driving around with swapped engines being helsd in by homemade mounts and they have been just fine for years, infact out of all the cars I have swapped engines in none have had any cv problems.. The whole idea of a CV joint is to allow both vertical and lateral movement.
Look at it this way, you lower a car and the cv joint angle changes whether it's up and down or side to side it is all the same.
Frankly the engine could be over an inch out of parallel and it still would not adversly affect the axels for a short period of time.
Getting the engine lined up is not rocket science either. It's really as simple as measureing the engine with a stock mounting, then making sure it is within 1/4" when its put back.
All in all it's a very inexpensive setup and it works very well for someone who has a family to support and school to pay for.

 

[gotlag]

I assure you that my crappy welds can easily support a measly "200" HP. For a cheap easy way of getting my work car drivable, I think this is excellent idea. This is not the first time I have completed a swap like this. There are several cars driving around with swapped engines being helsd in by homemade mounts and they have been just fine for years, infact out of all the cars I have swapped engines in none have had any cv problems.. The whole idea of a CV joint is to allow both vertical and lateral movement.
Look at it this way, you lower a car and the cv joint angle changes whether it's up and down or side to side it is all the same.
Frankly the engine could be over an inch out of parallel and it still would not adversly affect the axels for a short period of time.
Getting the engine lined up is not rocket science either. It's really as simple as measureing the engine with a stock mounting, then making sure it is within 1/4" when its put back.
All in all it's a very inexpensive setup and it works very well for someone who has a family to support and school to pay for.

Just for others that read the above statement, that could not be farther from the truth. Driveline angles are measure in degrees, not fractions of an inch. A 2-3* change can be drastic. I build drag cars that we also are foced to use fabricated mounts, and the math is SUBSTANTIAL. Not with-in a 1/4" or so, but within a few degrees.And that isn't just the driveshaft, but the engine and transmission itself. And yes, like it or not, you are elevating the stresses applied to all the drivetrain components. Yes the cv axles allow for a good bit of change, but the U-joint in the driveshaft lies in a total different realm. They are designed and engineered to run in a ver specific plane.
And by the way the correct way to lower the car will NOT change the angle of the CV axles 1 bit. Just a drop-spring lowering kit will.

Glad it worked out, and sure it will live just fine with the power you are currently producing, but you should admit, this is in no way a safe practice under any good amount of power.