has anyone Ceramic coated a dnp manifold and had any luck

[lou schmouder]

good or bad please leave me info so I can make a wise choice thanx

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I had one that was ceramic coated. Any type of thermal barrier coating will improve the longevity of a manifold and also improve engine temps and performance. If you do it, make sure its sprayed on both the inside and outside.

 

[lou schmouder]

k thanks for the info

 

[bryzenga]

Have a 02 housing that is ceramic coated and was used, seems to have held up nicely.

 

[Jafro]

I bought a bare FP manifold and had it ceramic coated by Jet-Hot for about $130. The manifold was purchased from a group buy for $250. I'd say I made out well because I got it in the color I wanted for less than their coated manifolds cost new.

Not sure how that applies to your question... but let me explain why I bought it.

I got the FP to replace a crappy tubular manifold that broke in half in less than an oil change. I hate tubular manifolds. I will forever use cast manifolds on 4g63T setups because of that experience. If ceramic coating extends the life of the part, fine... that just means it will take it a little bit longer to break. I will never pay for a 2100° coating on a tubular manifold because it's a waste of money, it will still be a tubular manifold that is nowhere near as strong as a cast part. Only one manufacturer makes a good one, IMO... and they're out of my league.

Here's the one I Grover'd.
YouTube - 4g63 Turbo Manifold Swap #1

Here's the one I have now.
YouTube - Turbo Exhaust Manifold Swap #2

I recommend clicking-thru and watching them on YouTube. The second video is 1080p if you have the display, video card and bandwidth to handle it. But when there are annotations, you don't get them in embedded video.

 

[AndrewD5418]

I bought a bare FP manifold and had it ceramic coated by Jet-Hot for about $130. The manifold was purchased from a group buy for $250. I'd say I made out well because I got it in the color I wanted for less than their coated manifolds cost new.

Not sure how that applies to your question... but let me explain why I bought it.

I got the FP to replace a crappy tubular manifold that broke in half in less than an oil change. I hate tubular manifolds. I will forever use cast manifolds on 4g63T setups because of that experience. If ceramic coating extends the life of the part, fine... that just means it will take it a little bit longer to break. I will never pay for a 2100° coating on a tubular manifold because it's a waste of money, it will still be a tubular manifold that is nowhere near as strong as a cast part. Only one manufacturer makes a good one, IMO... and they're out of my league.

Here's the one I Grover'd.
YouTube - 4g63 Turbo Manifold Swap #1

Here's the one I have now.
YouTube - Turbo Exhaust Manifold Swap #2

I recommend clicking-thru and watching them on YouTube. The second video is 1080p if you have the display, video card and bandwidth to handle it. But when there are annotations, you don't get them in embedded video.

Ebay manifolds are junk that's why. Get a quality one made with sch10 or sch40

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Jafro]

I don't know where it came from. It was gifted to me.

Good lord, I just looked up that dnp, and with no coating it costs almost 3x more than the FP. That would be a deal-breaker to me. I would be astonished if one produced any better results than the other on a dyno if you left everything else the same. Especially a deal breaker when there's a thread on here of fp replacing cracked or defective manifolds free of charge many years after they were purchased and installed. The dnp only gets a 1-year warranty.

I've burned up 4 manifolds in 40,000 miles. The original unit, a used 2g replacement, a new 2g replacement, and a tubular steel one. Nobody could convince me to buy anything tubular for these cars when there are so many other factors like exhaust support brackets not being present on big turbos or other parts that are probably missing from the average tweaker's setup. When steel is glowing red hot, it's a liquid. When you're accelerating and decelerating... if that bracket isn't there... you have a 16' long pry bar (the exhaust) honking on that flange with every turn, and every time you accelerate or brake. Schedule 10 is only about 1/10th of an inch thick... Schedule 40 is less than 3/16". The part I broke (and not on a weld) was schedule 10 steel.

If you drop $800 on a dnp, just make sure the lower exhaust bracket behind the turbo is in-place and bolted down tightly, or kiss your $800 goodbye. I had the bracket on mine, and it went anyway.