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harmonic balancer crank pulley vs oem pulley.

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Nothing wrong with an OEM pulley for DD usage. Just keep an eye on them from time to time, but for as a new OEM be a lot cheaper than an aftermarket one.

If you're going to beat the hell out of a car with winding it to redline on every shift, then do the aftermarket one.
 
Yep ordering the harmonic balancer right now should be good for my engine. Taking no short cuts this motor ganna get it every nic nac.
 
The bonus is not having the oem one fly apart on you. Has happen to me more than once which is why I just got a fludampr, be sure if you order one to get the correct arp bolts for the pulley.

If you mod list is current, I believe it is the aluminum flywheel that is giving you the issue. Make sure you use arp or moly lube along with the automatic flex plate washer with the aluminum flywheel. This way you don't dig into the aluminum and have incorrect torque spec. I personally would stay clear of aluminum flywheel on dsm. I see to many people messed their tranny or engine up cause the aluminum flywheel like to come apart. Fidanza is by far the worst.

I have been sporting an oem balanced for a while now. So far I am of not seeing any problem after 300+ Dyno pulls and 80+ run down the track. I hear a lot of hypes about the fluidampr but I don't really see the benefit. However if you are on an old crank pulley with unknown mileage, you should consider changing it out. I have seen old (100k miles) crank pulley come apart. It is a scary sound because it sound like you got rod knock. In some causes, the out ring can spit out while you are driving or making a pull down the track. I guess if I got the extra jack, I might get one of the fancy fluidampr pulley to put on my car.
 
^^It's called having over 200k on a oem crank pulley LOL!!, and ive been racing my gst for 15 years. Mine actually came apart before I switched my clutch setup, and I did use the fp flywheel bolt kit with my aluminum flywheel. Anyway I just don't wanna risk having another oem one fly apart. I got lucky and it happen in my drive way and the car was idling. The arp's you need are part number 661-1004 and you need 4. I had Jeremy at STM get them for me, so they should have them in the computer now.
 
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I don't think the ARPs are necessary, but I do believe they are a little longer than the stockers, which is a good thing, because if I remember correctly, some aftermarket dampers are a little thicker, so the stock bolts don't get enough thread engagement and can back off/break easier.
 
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