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HAFE Cast SS EWG mani fitment help/ideas

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HaveBlue83

15+ Year Contributor
660
244
Feb 10, 2009
Wrightsville, Pennsylvania
CHECK OUT POST #29 for installed pictures :D


OK, I just picked up the HAFE mani, and I know its usually a 1g fitment the way they casted the EWG where they did. I KNOW and had picts of a car with this mani and a 45deg curved pipe off the EWG flange that tipped up to clear the stock fans, but I can't find it. his had a red valve cover, polished heat shield, and nice engine bay. car was grey.

Just trying to figure out logistics for the install...as in in what order. This is what I'm thinking:

-remove FP mani, drop HAFE in, tack weld an adapter pipe and fit up EWG to it, then remove mani/turbo and tack up a pipe from the EWG to the cut off O2 recirc pipe to recirc the EWG.

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thoughts, comments, pictures, or "here's the link you should have found before posting this" answers welcome :cool:
 
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WHat problems are you having with mounting it in the location cast into the manifold? Is it hitting the hood on you?

I have the old cast turbonetics manifold with the oldchool TIal 38mm gate and although it's close it does clear. BAck bfore i have poly motor mounts the top ports banjo style fitting actually did push a little divot up in the hood but i was able to solve that with grinding (machining) half the hexagon shaped bolt head off, it's still enough to tighten it with and actually after putting the solid mounts in i realized it wouldn't hit even with the bolt the stock height (put the samemanifold and gate on a friends car that had the poly mounts and his never hit)

Anyway, just trying to get a handle on what you actually need helpwith as i haven't used that exact manifold but i have seen people weld up a couple of flanges with a varying degree of curved pipe in between them to allow for certain other mods or specific gate placement

as for an exact order to installing and fabbing up the re-route there's not going to be one, iot's going to be "test fit" remove, tack, test-fit, remove weld, install and all those same steps in a few different orders until it's done
 
i havent pulled the FP one off yet, just looking for anyone thats gone down this route already. it SHOULD fit with the A/C fan delete, although tight.

just wanted some ingo before i dive into it one weekend. the dipstick will need tweaking over too.

thx bud.
 
i havent pulled the FP one off yet, just looking for anyone thats gone down this route already. it SHOULD fit with the A/C fan delete, although tight.

just wanted some ingo before i dive into it one weekend. the dipstick will need tweaking over too.

thx bud.
 
LOL PTE gate.

(and pulling 1 runners worth of exhaust for waste)

It may not be "the best" but it works just fine, I've been running the turbonetics manifold that has the gate in the same place (#1 runner) for 10 years with no issues controlling boost using a Tial 38mm gate dumping to atmosphere.

All these young guys like to bag on the parts that paved the way in DSM's not thinking about where these cars would be if companies hadn't have gone as far as making these parts the way they did when they did. WHen i got this manifold T3/T4 hybrids were the "big turbos" and 16g's were considered a healthy upgrade with few people even having something as big as a 20g. Back then even an external gate was seldome heard of and half those running them were using a flange welded onto a stock Mitsu manifold again on the #1 runner and all those guys were the ones making the DSMscene what it is today.. you can laugh and feel superior with your tubular manifold with the gate mounted in the collector, but assuming you're old enough to know about the people and parts i'm talking about you should at least show enough maturity and respect to not think it's cool to make a post simply to laugh at the parts someone is using.
 
It may not be "the best" but it works just fine, I've been running the turbonetics manifold that has the gate in the same place (#1 runner) for 10 years with no issues controlling boost using a Tial 38mm gate dumping to atmosphere.

All these young guys like to bag on the parts that paved the way in DSM's not thinking about where these cars would be if companies hadn't have gone as far as making these parts the way they did when they did. WHen i got this manifold T3/T4 hybrids were the "big turbos" and 16g's were considered a healthy upgrade with few people even having something as big as a 20g. Back then even an external gate was seldome heard of and half those running them were using a flange welded onto a stock Mitsu manifold again on the #1 runner and all those guys were the ones making the DSMscene what it is today.. you can laugh and feel superior with your tubular manifold with the gate mounted in the collector, but assuming you're old enough to know about the people and parts i'm talking about you should at least show enough maturity and respect to not think it's cool to make a post simply to laugh at the parts someone is using.

"paved the way" and properly designed do not logically correlate. they did what was easy, not what was proper. It's time to stop supporting phased out "tech" and start supporting well designed parts.

I don't run a tubular manifold. the HAFE manifold is a cheap chinebay knockoff of the "slowboy" manifold (which was, in itself, a china part). They're made to WORK not perform (hell they flow LESS than OEM parts, and the PTE gate is worse than china knockoff TiAl gates). If you're still on a mitsubishi hotside pushing enough airflow at low RPM to need an external gate, then you have enough money to afford a proper exh manifold and wastegate, not cheap china MFG parts.
 
Yea running it off cylinder 1 not being the proper way is such a crock of shit, so sick of this dumb misinformation being spread by these "textbook" mechanics.

- I have put together 2 other DSMs( other than my own), one has a 20G with a 44mm wategate off the O2 housing, boost creeps to 20-22psi.

- Helped my friend put together his HX35 car with a 38mm gate mounted off the O2 housing as well, boost creeps to 20+psi.

- My HX35 car is running a similar type of manifold with 38mm gate (SBR mani which I have put well over 40K on my car DDing to and from work for over 4 years now and does not have a single crack, must be some chinese trash), I have held anywhere from 10psi to 8K to 33psi to 8K no problem!, Cant comment on the flow characteristics of the manifold but at 33psi, with 22-24* of timing DSMlink HP estimates 560-580HP (on my small 8 blade hx35), on a bone stock bottom end and stock intake manifold.

Do it the way it has worked for ages, we are not reinventing the wheel here.
 
Yea running it off cylinder 1 not being the proper way is such a crock of shit, so sick of this dumb misinformation being spread by some text book modders.

I have put together 2 other DSMs, one has a 20G with a 44mm wategate off the O2 housing, boost creeps to 20psi.

Helped my friend put together his HX35 car with a 38mm gate mounted off the O2 housing as well, boost creeps to 20+psi.

My HX35 car is running a similar type of manifold and I hold 10psi to 8K no problem, and I can also hold 33psi to 8K as well.

Do it the way it has worked for ages, we are not reinventing the wheel here.

WTF really? You're going to actually argue that if 1 runners worth of pressure isn't enough to bypass overspinning a turbo, that other runner's exhaust should backtrack into #1 to compensate? Physics, how does it work?
 
All I'm saying is what good does it do anyone and what good does it do the board for people to post in a thread simply to make fun of the parts some one has? I"m sure you wouldn't want some one coming in a thread you made and talking about how X part is junk or whatever, all i'msaying it the old rule of if there's nothing nice to say don't say nothing at all, or save it for the hangout.

it'smaybe not the best, but it wil do the job. it's worked for years and if "old tech" makes a part fall in some one 's price range, so be it, still no reason to add useless posts just to point out that you want to laugh at something that some one is taking serious and trying to put to good use
 
Boosted98gsx kindly STFU. i ALREADY saw the thread about PTE's "claimed" test by another competitor you posted as well as your rant. christ you are a TROLL.

the HAFE is a cast SS mani, it's not the ebay one, it's a good mani.

my E316G is spiking like a mother to 25PSI after 5K rpms, so yes I will take using 1 runner as a compromise....my buddy with his hx-35 has the same type runner EWG setup since prollly 2006 on his stock motor 1g and is FINE running 30psi.

This is better than running an o2 EWG setup. I have read about the above posted known creep issues with the O2 setups and NO ONE has that issue with a runner mounted EWG setup. you can run 8psi if you want to.

its my car and the parts are already purchased. I will not respond to ANY further posting by you. others please disregard this troll. thank you.
 
Boosted98gsx kindly STFU. i ALREADY saw the thread about PTE's "claimed" test by another competitor you posted as well as your rant. christ you are a TROLL.

the HAFE is a cast SS mani, it's not the ebay one, it's a good mani.

my E316G is spiking like a mother to 25PSI after 5K rpms, so yes I will take using 1 runner as a compromise....my buddy with his hx-35 has the same type runner EWG setup since prollly 2006 on his stock motor 1g and is FINE running 30psi.

This is better than running an o2 EWG setup. I have read about the above posted known creep issues with the O2 setups and NO ONE has that issue with a runner mounted EWG setup. you can run 8psi if you want to.

its my car and the parts are already purchased. I will not respond to ANY further posting by you. others please disregard this troll. thank you.

FYI, it's not trolling when you post FACTS. However it is FLAMING to talk so insidiously towards another member.
 
My buddy has the HAFE manifold on his 2g with a Tail 38 mm wastegate and did not run into any fitment issues at all. He did not even have any issues with the oil dip stick, it fit perfect. He chose to run an open dump tube rather than trying to recirculate the wastegate.
 
99.9% of tubular manifolds have the wastgate port coming off the collector at a 90* angle. Its not ideal. boo-f'in-whoo.
If it works, it works. Run it.
 
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i tried to run that manifold and had problems boosting over 23 psi . the problem was that it doesn't have a divider at the collector . what happens is at high boost pressure the exhaust gases from # 1 cylinder collide with # 4 and causes the car to lose power .i was running this manifold external dump with a green turbo. when i switched back to the stock manifold my problem went away .
 
WTF really? You're going to actually argue that if 1 runners worth of pressure isn't enough to bypass overspinning a turbo, that other runner's exhaust should backtrack into #1 to compensate? Physics, how does it work?

How about instead of sitting here and talking about textbooks, you explain to me how this manifold works perfectly fine with the set up on my car, and the car makes the HP numbers that it should be making at my boost levels compared to other similar set ups? Is it in a violation of some crazy physics laws? Or does the manifold do exactly what it is designed to do? and does that job well.

i tried to run that manifold and had problems boosting over 23 psi . the problem was that it doesn't have a divider at the collector . what happens is at high boost pressure the exhaust gases from # 1 cylinder collide with # 4 and causes the car to lose power .i was running this manifold external dump with a green turbo. when i switched back to the stock manifold my problem went away .

My "shitty china built" SBR manifold has no divider either, and I boost and hold 33psi on my car on a daily basis. I think you may have another problem, considering there could be a MILLION other problems that could cause you to not hold boost over XXpsi.
 
Did you say this HAFE manifold have 45 degree angle upward? How is it differ from the stock mani? i wounder if this HAFE manifold can clear the water pipe with HX35's without having to dent the water pipe.

Has anyone used this manifold with hx35?


HAFE manifold exahsut flange thickeness - 16.4mm
FP manfiold exhaust flange thickness - 12.0mm

4.4mm less of a dent

This information take from:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/332602-hafe-exhuast-manifold.html

I measured the FP flange myself and got 12mm.

The odd thing is that the link above states that the 2g manifold is 14.7mm. That means that the 2g has a thicker manifold flange? That seems odd to me. I dont have a 2g to take a measurement and my HAFE is on my vehicle.

does the FP manifold slightly relocate where the turbo sits? this is the only way I can see that the FP green fitting with the FP manifold since the 2g manifold has a thicker flange and thus place the turbo closer to the radiator.
 
hmm good info guys, good to see more posts. I have a stock 2g manifold and the HAFE I can take picts of off the car. when thie FP one comes off I can take side by sides of them for a better visual as well. my buddy has the Slowboy mani like this on his Hx-35 1g and he def did need to whack the waterpipe a good bit. 4mm is 4mm tho.
 
HAFE manifold exahsut flange thickeness - 16.4mm
FP manfiold exhaust flange thickness - 12.0mm

4.4mm less of a dent

This information take from:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-parts-feedback-reviews/332602-hafe-exhuast-manifold.html

I measured the FP flange myself and got 12mm.

The odd thing is that the link above states that the 2g manifold is 14.7mm. That means that the 2g has a thicker manifold flange? That seems odd to me. I dont have a 2g to take a measurement and my HAFE is on my vehicle.

does the FP manifold slightly relocate where the turbo sits? this is the only way I can see that the FP green fitting with the FP manifold since the 2g manifold has a thicker flange and thus place the turbo closer to the radiator.

Thicker flange on HAFE is a good thing and if that manifold indeed has 45 degree angle upward curve this should clear the hx35 turbo with the water pipe no problem.

Man! i just need to see this first hand! Someone must have done this set up already with hx35. Anybody out there with first hand experience? Anybody????

If HAFE do clear the water pipe i am definitely going with this route with my hx35 and .55 A/R housing!
 
Did you say this HAFE manifold have 45 degree angle upward? How is it differ from the stock mani? i wounder if this HAFE manifold can clear the water pipe with HX35's without having to dent the water pipe.

Has anyone used this manifold with hx35?


Although I am not using the HAFE manifold I am using the SBR mani which I have read is very close to the HAFE Mani.

Here is the best pic I have of the clearance between the water pipe and turbo with the SBR Mani.

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As you can see I had to dent in the water pipe a little bit. Although I am sure Boosted98gsx will try to throw up some kind of ridiculous physics equation explaining how bad denting the water pipe is for FFDs (fluid flow dynamics) and TIs (thermocoupler indexes). Also how people should start mounting their radiators in different locations because the intercooler is messing up the airflow to the radiator and thats old tech anyways.

I'll tell you this I dont know why people are so worried about denting in the water pipe, I have DDed my dsm with the HX35, single cam radiator, trimmed stock fan shroud/fan blades and a dented water pipe for 3+ years 20-25 miles each way to work and home, sometimes getting stuck in stop and go traffic for miles, needless to say the temp has never gone past the middle on the gauge.

I wont lie tho, when I had to cut a substantial amount off my stock fan blades to clear the turbo I was a bit worried about over heating, but she has been a trooper.
 

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wait....that picture makes your engine bay look WAYYYYY cleaner than it actually is...:D

I gotta find the picts I took of it that night that showed the Pipe clearance better.


-Also I setup saturday at 8am to swap the HAFE mani into the car. after that I can work on EWG clearance and temp dump tube until I get the recirc setup.
 
First off my engine bay is crazy dirty because the car was seeing A LOT of miles in every kind of weather, snow, rain, heat, clouds, you name it.

Secondly I am excited to hear u are putting the mani on this weekend! Make sure to soak the bolts nice and good in PB blaster the night before so you don't snap anything! also, if a nut or a bolt is being a bi*** to come off, don't just keep turning it, loosen and tighten it until it gets threw all the tough spots.

Also what did u decide to do about the WG flapper? Just gonna have it welded? Or run a tube to it so you can still use it later if u wanted to.
 
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