gvr4 clutch bleed

[agent23]

ok i have a big problem my clutch worked befre i did my engine rebuild. now after i put the slave on i bleed it till no air is in line and it still soft, itl only disingage the clutch like a 1/4 inch maybe 1/8. now when i pull the slave off car still connected and put a bolt to simulate the pushrod and put a c clamp on so it doesnt come out itl get rock hard but wen i put it back on car its soft again. the master is adjusted all the way out and nothing looks like it leaks everything is dry master and slave and entire line so WTF is going on i have spent hours vaccum bleeding, reverse bleeding, ect. and nothing changes PLEASE HELP!!!!!

 

[Kurptk]

Sorry when you say 1/4 inch maybe 1/8 are you referencing to the engagement off the floor?

 

[ThomasGSX]

sounds like it could be something to do with your clutch fork. when you had your motor out did you inspect it? and also did you put in any new clutch? because I do know that certain clutch kits require the "extended" slave cyl rod.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

check the clutch fork and pivot ball. you may have to shim the pivot ball and while your in there check your flywheel step height. NEVER use a extended rod.
-shane

 

[agent23]

The 1/8 - 1/4 inch is refering to the fork and everything is the same as it was wen i pulled to old engine. I pulle old engine swapted fly and clutch made sur fork was on with wire clip for throwout. And also pivot ball and put trans on engine hooked up slave and line and then nothing is it possible my pedal assembly is bad. Everything worked 3months ago the only thing changed is the engine

 

[Kurptk]

Hydraulics can be a bi*** sometimes, pascals law:banghead

In the past I have had problems bleeding clutchs or brake's. Somtimes it is just air getting in (Toyota MR2 are the worst to bleed), so I reverse bleed it with a vacumm pump, even this method can take sometime and be rather uncomfortable. But a DSM should be easy as pie.

Other time's it ended up being a bad master. Why? not sure but I have seen this happen more then once after releasing fluid to service. If the clutch fork is installed properly/ and pedal is adjusted for free play and bled and you arn't getting enough travel, I would consider this as a possibility for replacement.

Another thing to check, not sure if DSM guys have this problem or not but on Evo's our firewall will actually crack and cause faulty clutch issue's since the master will move.

Whenever I drop my trans I leave the slave/clutch hydralic system intacted to save myself trying to rebleed it. Just somthing to consider for next time.

 

[agent23]

I will deffinetly keep that in mind for next time but hopefully there wont be a next time for as long as own it but how can u test a master to check if its bad

Ok replaced master and slave ran all steel line except for a 12in section between. Slave and gard lines so theres no rubbet lines and it still soft. How do i check pedal assembly. And how do i repair it if worn. Also i am going to try to apply the clutch and bleed it without the pedal assembly and see if that work. I know it sounds stupid and its going to b hard to do but if it works then it has to b clutch assembly any other thoughts.ideas.tips.tricks.mods.ect

Sorry about misspelled words i and doing all the replys right now off my galagy s with androidso please dont bust my balls right now about spell check.

 

[Kurptk]

I won't give you shit for spelling. At least I can make sense of it

As for testing the master I have never really found a way. They either work or they don't. Now in the past (mostly GM) I have found that second line masters to be defective right out of the box, so it can be quite frustrating...

To adjust the pedal (I really don't know DSM's more Evo's but they should be similar) there will be a adjustment rod under the pedal assembly. I believe its a 12mm nut, loosen it and adjust it so there is 1/4" of free play before engagement starts and also check that the bushing that the pin goes through is intact as sometimes it can create a almost 2 step pedal feel when its worn out and metal to metal

Not sure what you mean by bleeding it without the pedal assembly?

 

[agent23]

ok i am so ####en done with this car i just dumpted 3 grand into it i didn havead i cnt eve drve it becaus icant ge the damn clutch to work. i HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING. and nothing works. PLEASE more ideas everything is new slave master and line is good. is still at the point to where the pedal is almost to the floor before it strts to do anything. i hould of just kept the slv attached tote line and put it aside.

 

[Kurptk]

We all have had those times. I remember the first time I bled my MR2 clutch, I wanted to set the car on fire and walk away. Now people bring me them from all over to put together for them

Its really hard to judge without seeing it. Here is how I would do it in your situation

Have a friend pump the clutch, when he holds it to the floor release the nipple and at the same time push the slave/ford back into the slave with your hand. Once's its bottomed out, Tighten nipple check fluid and repeat.

Persistence is key, you will get it

 

[agent23]

so thats realy all it is, is just air because i have already gone thru at least half a gallon of brake fluid and still nothing

 

[Kurptk]

Are you still getting air out of it doing that process?

 

[agent23]

not any more butit still soft any body know anyonethat lives around sycamore, illinois that could help me with this i dont have much money but would be wiling to pay for someone to help

ok i got the pedal to get stiffer but wen i was realy starting to get it to where it was the pedal went loose again so i think the master went out whick seas on these are usally the culprit to going the o-ring or the oneway seal