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Gt35r build almost finished

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92_awdtsi

10+ Year Contributor
63
0
Aug 24, 2008
halifax,
So I thought I would update the progress so far: 1992 tsi awd 5 sp
I started with a gt35r ball bearing turbo with a .82 hotside that was switched over to the .63 hotside for quicker spool (i know it still wont be that quick)
Mods include:
wiseco forged pistons 7.8:1 cr with eagle rods
balanced crank, evo 3 block bored .20 over

Arp headstuds, cometic headgasket, HKS stage 2 regrind cams
obx tubular exhaust manifold with tial 38mm wastegate, 3"downpipe with 2.5"exhaust (will upgrade as well)
precision 350 fmic with hard piping and turboxs rfl bov
precision 880cc injectors, walbro 255fp, afpr
cobalt boost guage, turbo smart manual boost controller
act2600 clutch kit
maft with 3"gm maf
dynojet wideband

So the engine is being put together right now and should be tuned next weekend. I know my goal is way below what it should be with the gt35r but im only hoping for 400hp for a good streetable daily driver. Please feel free to comment unless its just about the turbo being too big for the goal LOL i will have the numbers hopefully next week.
Only question I have is will this be a reliable setup for 400awhp? or will i need anything else. I will be getting dsmlink soon but anything else. thanks for looking
 
Updates...... Engine is all put together now going into the car tonight! fmic and wideband getting installed tomorrow so it will be up and running this week. Cannot wait!
 

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Looks like a nice buildup!
I don't think the MAF-T is going to work too well with the 880cc injectors without a custom eprom.
 
^^^ Agreed. Getting dsmlink. I would also look into some different cams. Not that crowers wouldn't perfom I just think there are better cams out there
 
^^^ Agreed. Getting dsmlink. I would also look into some different cams. Not that crowers wouldn't perfom I just think there are better cams out there

Agree!

DSM Link will make your life much easier. Brian Corwers are not the best cams out there for our engines, I like the FP2's, gained a 1.5 lb/min with them vs. my HKS 272's.

Nice build, hope it runs well for you!
 
More boost safely i would imagine and the stock gauges work fine... It looks very sleeper to me so less gauges the better.
 
Thanks for the comments, I will be going with dsmlink when i get some more money but im pretty much strapped at the moment LOL.
And to answer about the low compression piston question- I bought the entire bottom end off of my mechanic, he made 512hp with his setup so i figured it would work well for me
I still need to get dsmlink, bigger fmic, and get 3" exhaust.
And yes the wideband is a dynojet one analog readout with the logger box. I dont have any other gauges at the moment im trying for a more *sleeper* look as mentioned.
Once i get link and a bigger exhaust i will get meth as well. Any more comments and advice would be great as im still very new to the dsm scene. thanks for viewing
 
Thanks for the comments, I will be going with dsmlink when i get some more money but im pretty much strapped at the moment LOL.

There are a few options for us 1gs. You could look into doing your own eprom editing for a cheaper solution to your fuel/timing management.
I also urge you to look into DsMap(Jackal) as an alternative too
 
so how does dsMap work and what do I need for it?

You need an eprom ecu, ostrich, map sensor, iat sensor, and wide band o2. Once you get rid of your mass you will never want to go back. The software is free and all the people on that forum are great.

And it is called Jackel now not dsmap.

ds-map.net
 
it sounds like alot of parts, will it cost as much as dsmlink? if it does I might as well just go with link right? And im not sure if I already have an eprom ecu or not, the car is a 92 so im told it should...I will find out once I get the car back
 
ok so here are some updates........ the new engine/turbo are installed and running well .. I'm only running it at 12psi right now until it breaks in and then it will be up to about 22psi daily driving.
The bad part about this whole setup is the brakes, from having it sitting so long the calipers are sticking really bad so it shakes alot on the highway and is really hard to get going once its stopped.
The meth injection kit will not be on until another month or so, as well as dsmlink. So for now the maft and dynoject wideband are working just fine.
 
so here are some new updates.....i had the walbro 255 fuel pump installed, did a basic tune to get the afr down to 11:1.. running 19 pounds of boost the afr is great but it starts to lean a tad once it gets to 6k rpm. here is a vid of a short highway pull
Tell me if im wrong, but it sounds like i've got a boost leak somewhere
YouTube - Talon tsi highway pull #1
 
You probably hear the turbo. Your car wouldn't move like that if you had a boost leak bad enough to hear while driving. You should still do a test and fix any leaks if you haven't already though.
 
ok thanks, i have a question im hopin someone can answer. i've got it dialed in pretty good at 11:1 wot. but once it hits 6k it goes up to about 12:1 ...do i just need to turn the wot knob on the maft to richen it up a bit or is 12 acceptable? and does the car need to be running while turning those knobs on the maft or does the ignition just need to be on?
 
12:1 is a little lean for pump gas. I would richen it up. Not sure if the key has to be on or if the car has to be running, I don't use mine for tuning. I would think that you can have the key and car off though since it is not directly changing the ecu settings.
 
ok so where wot at 4k-6k is 11:1...if i richen it up a bit it will more than likely go down to like 10.5 in that rpm range for it to stay at 11.1 @6k and higher. will that be a safe number?
 
So I've got a new issue that im hoping someone can help me with, i dont have alot of info but i was pulling into my driveway lastnight and the car started smoking from under the hood. I turned it off right away and got out, looked under the car and coolant was coming out ALOT.
So i looked around and couldnt see where the leak was actually coming from. I waited until today so i could get some light and i thought it was leaking out of the main water line that goes to the oil cooler, but it appears as if its almost coming right out of the block which makes no sense. its on the front driverside of the engine, above the oil filter. The leak is really close to where the oilpan bolts to the block, i can see it running down above it. So where would that be leaking from? could it be the water pump or do i have a bigger issue?
 
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