Ground wire kit

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

does any 1 know the site that has the pics of the home made ground kit
i seen it before i just cant seem to find it any more

 

[Nerfherder]

You just don't get it.... Google up ohm's law, read it, and tell the class why you are running 4 gauge grounds. if you plumbed your bathroom in 3" copper, would it make your toilet work any better? No.
This is all a bunch of nonsense.

I don't have to look up Ohm's law because I already know it. I'm an Electronic Technician in a clean room with 9 years of experience in the semiconductor industry. V=IR. With a larger ground wire, you are decreasing resistance. If your 12V supply remains stable with a decrease in resistance, you get more current. Lets just think of it as your circulatory system. With a good ground-wire setup, you get better electrical circulation. Your headlights will run with more stability when your modified stereo is a full blast, your ignition will perform better at higher revolutions, where demand is high, etc. If you don't want to use a ground-wire setup on your car, then don't. I'm not trying to sell it to you. Nobody sold it to me, it just made good sense.

p.s. I don't know anything about plumbing, but if your toilet is running through 2" piping, and you increase to 3" piping, then it would work better if you consider toilet clogs. There would be less resistance in the line, therefore the toilet paper would be less likely to clog the pipes. Either way, I'm done mucking up river's thread. Sorry, river. I had to tell everyone how smart I am.

 

[Nerfherder]

i dont know where you all are buying these outrageously expesive chunks of wire at, but here in AK i can go to any audio shop and buy about 20 ft of 8 gauge wiring for about 25 bucks, all Directed Audio wire...which i feel is pretty good wire. i think even for up to 50 bucks this may be benifitial to some people. none the less, i dont think it would hurt to do this. but my first question still exists....will his diagram work for a 1G??

There is a significant price difference in 4GA and 8GA wire. You're reading into the diagram too much. It should work for a 1G, but the grounding points may not be exactly the same. I don't own a 1G, so I can't say for sure. You should be able to get a good idea where to make your ground connections. You can even add more or subtract some grounding points. None of it is set in stone.

 

[95TSiNewbie]

I replaced sections of my stock grounds with 4 ga and it helped with dim headlights when stopped and bad radio signal as well. I guess I get lucky, around Northern Illinois, a place called Mobil-Tel sells all the over priced Fosgate and Lightnng Audio crap for like $3-$7 per foot. I asked an installer for their "Shop grade 4 ga" (not pretty blue or red color) and got it for 95 cents a foot. And its actually better quality then the over priced lightning audio garbage.

 

[gsx951]

I don't have to look up Ohm's law because I already know it. I'm an Electronic Technician in a clean room with 9 years of experience in the semiconductor industry.

cool, so you do understand what an I/R drop is...


[/QUOTE] V=IR. With a larger ground wire, you are decreasing resistance.[/QUOTE]

no argument here on that. it just remains a question of how many amps do you wish to pass and what voltage drop is deemed as being acceptable.

[/QUOTE] If your 12V supply remains stable with a decrease in resistance, you get more current. [/QUOTE]

while it is true that a reduction on resistance would yeild an increase in amperage, this has nothing to do with stability in an automotive system. that would be the job of the regulator and rectifier.

[/QUOTE] Lets just think of it as your circulatory system. With a good ground-wire setup, you get better electrical circulation. [/QUOTE]

uh, no... this is demand based. if you ground the tiny transistors in a DSM ignition with 4 gauge, they will not function any better than if you had done the same thing with 12 gauge.
you could hook you ignition directly to your battery using copper buss but it wouldn't function any different because it draws very little current.
if we were to follow your reasoning, the signal traces on a pcb would be gigantic but they are not are they? they are designed with a working load in mind and are sized appropriately for that load.


[/QUOTE]Your headlights will run with more stability when your modified stereo is a full blast, [/QUOTE]

again, no... lights dim in cars with big amps because the power supply in the amp is drawing current that the alternator can't supply. besides, the audio system is grounded to the chassis.


[/QUOTE] your ignition will perform better at higher revolutions, where demand is high, etc. [/QUOTE]

providing a hyper-capacity ground for a little semiconductor makes one look foolish especially when one is employed in that trade. believing that said overcapacity has a positive benefit on the ignition is a bad joke.


[/QUOTE] If you don't want to use a ground-wire setup on your car, then don't. [/QUOTE]

that's just it, i've been using upgraded grounds for over 15 years. my only objection is telling people (noobs who search this forum for factual data.) that 4 gauge made your igniton work better. 4 gauge is a great choice to ground your battery to the chassis and starter but that's it. the fact is, your ignition is contact grounded to your motor, providing both ground and heatsink, so once the starter is done, the ignition is done as well.


[/QUOTE]p.s. I don't know anything about plumbing, but if your toilet is running through 2" piping, and you increase to 3" piping, then it would work better if you consider toilet clogs. There would be less resistance in the line, therefore the toilet paper would be less likely to clog the pipes. [/QUOTE]

your difficulty with this analogy provides a parallel insight: the toilet, like an electrical component doesn't benefit from excess supply. toilets are fed by a 1/2" line and increasing the water feed to 3" will not, in any way change how in operates.
after 11 years playing with DSM cars, i have seen cars that have had a lot of money sunk into them but were less than the sum of their parts and others that ran very well and were very quick for very little invested, it's just a matter of which group you wish to be in.
my goal here was to point out the fallacious assertions in this thread and to warn others not to accept this nonsense at face value. if after understanding that 4 gauge grounds (with the exception of starter, chassis and audio) have no basis in engineering , you just want them because you think it's cool, then fine.
jeez, this is like nology wires all over again.....

 

[gsx951]

....will his diagram work for a 1G??

that can be found in the manual, all of the gounds are called out.

 

[Nerfherder]

cool, so you do understand what an I/R drop is...

V=IR. With a larger ground wire, you are decreasing resistance.[/QUOTE]

no argument here on that. it just remains a question of how many amps do you wish to pass and what voltage drop is deemed as being acceptable.

[/QUOTE] If your 12V supply remains stable with a decrease in resistance, you get more current. [/QUOTE]

while it is true that a reduction on resistance would yeild an increase in amperage, this has nothing to do with stability in an automotive system. that would be the job of the regulator and rectifier.

[/QUOTE] Lets just think of it as your circulatory system. With a good ground-wire setup, you get better electrical circulation. [/QUOTE]

uh, no... this is demand based. if you ground the tiny transistors in a DSM ignition with 4 gauge, they will not function any better than if you had done the same thing with 12 gauge.
you could hook you ignition directly to your battery using copper buss but it wouldn't function any different because it draws very little current.
if we were to follow your reasoning, the signal traces on a pcb would be gigantic but they are not are they? they are designed with a working load in mind and are sized appropriately for that load.


[/QUOTE]Your headlights will run with more stability when your modified stereo is a full blast, [/QUOTE]

again, no... lights dim in cars with big amps because the power supply in the amp is drawing current that the alternator can't supply. besides, the audio system is grounded to the chassis.


[/QUOTE] your ignition will perform better at higher revolutions, where demand is high, etc. [/QUOTE]

providing a hyper-capacity ground for a little semiconductor makes one look foolish especially when one is employed in that trade. believing that said overcapacity has a positive benefit on the ignition is a bad joke.


[/QUOTE] If you don't want to use a ground-wire setup on your car, then don't. [/QUOTE]

that's just it, i've been using upgraded grounds for over 15 years. my only objection is telling people (noobs who search this forum for factual data.) that 4 gauge made your igniton work better. 4 gauge is a great choice to ground your battery to the chassis and starter but that's it. the fact is, your ignition is contact grounded to your motor, providing both ground and heatsink, so once the starter is done, the ignition is done as well.


[/QUOTE]p.s. I don't know anything about plumbing, but if your toilet is running through 2" piping, and you increase to 3" piping, then it would work better if you consider toilet clogs. There would be less resistance in the line, therefore the toilet paper would be less likely to clog the pipes. [/QUOTE]

your difficulty with this analogy provides a parallel insight: the toilet, like an electrical component doesn't benefit from excess supply. toilets are fed by a 1/2" line and increasing the water feed to 3" will not, in any way change how in operates.
after 11 years playing with DSM cars, i have seen cars that have had a lot of money sunk into them but were less than the sum of their parts and others that ran very well and were very quick for very little invested, it's just a matter of which group you wish to be in.
my goal here was to point out the fallacious assertions in this thread and to warn others not to accept this nonsense at face value. if after understanding that 4 gauge grounds (with the exception of starter, chassis and audio) have no basis in engineering , you just want them because you think it's cool, then fine.
jeez, this is like nology wires all over again.....[/QUOTE]



Very well stated. I apologize if any of my earlier comments were insulting to your intelligence. I admit that my use of the "hyper-capacity" ground wire was as much for my ignorance about automobile ignition systems as it was for asthetics. If I understood more about the operation of the ignition in my car, I probably would have gone the same route for asthetic reasons, but I would have been able to make a more informed decision. Your argument, with the usage of unecessary multi-syllable words not withstanding, should have been presented in this format to begin with. Just telling the readers of this forum to research Ohm's Law is not a good way to get your point across. Explaining the operation of the Eclipse's ignition, and electrical system in general, is a great way to get your point across. It helped me to understand.

I thought you meant the toilet drain, not the toilet feed. But, as I stated, I know nothing about plumbing.

I may seem foolish to you, but I am insulted by the implication that I do not perform my job well. If I knew you, I would hit you in the nose for saying it.

 

[Thomas91169]

i wouldnt think of ground wires as a performance mod. id think of it as a efficiency mod. a more efficient ground will make for a more efficient electrical system, period. however, i wouldnt spend any more than 20 bucks for wires and stuff. even those nifty gold plated connectors for the battery can be had for 5bucks if you look in the right places.

somewhere in my electrical system i must have a bad ground or a short, cause if i park my car for more than a day the battery dies, and yes, its a brand new battery on a perfect alternator. im thinking on revamping my grounds with some nice 4ga to see if it makes a difference, hell if my amp is 2ga ground shouldnt my engine, the heart of the car, have the same luxury?

 

[95TSiNewbie]

Thomas91169: Just get yourself an Optima Red Top... got mine at Sams Club for $98 with turning in my old battery. Best investment I ever made. I used to have to cold start my car with two batteries.... to much crap hooked up, now it starts better then ever.

 

[Bigglesworth87]

Ok, last night i installed my homemade ground kit and i went with most of the ground points in the tech article except for the coil connection and the alrternator connection. I didnt do the coil connection because i didnt know where to bolt it too and the alternator connection I couldnt get the bolt off. So, here is my problem! After i have everything installed I start the car up and my idle is suprizingly low. Im not sure how to tell you guys where its idlining at but i will try. It is at like 2 clicks above stalling (0), and at startup it bounces a little lower then that, actually almost stalls. So, what did i do wrong? Is it possible boost leak at the TB connection? I have read that its not good to connect there due to the torqe tightness. Should I ground to different points and what ground points did you use? Any suggestions and pictures/diagrams would be appreciated.

Thanks tuners!

 

[fostytou]

did you tighten the ground on your battery very well?
...also, if your battery is getting bad, or there isn't much gas in your car (especially when cold), or another connection problem is very possible....

...felt stupid, but I had to have my car towed out of a 15min parking spot once.... didn't tighten the negative on the batt very well after doing a bunch of work and it did that a couple of times the day before and then blew the ignition fuse... after a charge the battery would just short all its power out when you tried to start it...... $56..... most ... expensive.... fuse..... EVER

 

[motoman358]

i know someone on here must have made or bought a ground wire kit for a 1g, but i never see anything on them. To those that have made/bought ground wire kits did you notice any difference in electrical system perfromance or engine performance? where did you run the wires? any opinions would be great as i have some extra wire and connectors and have been thinking about doing this just to sure up the factory grounds.

 

[luv2rallye]

I think this is for a 2g but the principles are the same: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=75889

 

[90 GSX]

It's pretty much useless. Now whenever I need some 4 gauge I get it from my grounding kit.

 

[nightspeed87]

It's pretty much useless. Now whenever I need some 4 gauge I get it from my grounding kit.

There has been dynoed experiments showing were properly set up grounding kits actually provided a few horses lost from power surge and electrical drainage.
For instance when I turn on my headlights my rpm drops slightly and stuff like that.
The injectors, fuel pump, ignition is still all pulled off of the same power supply there for one would have reason to believe they dont get full constant voltage either, especially at higher rpms when its needed most.
You may not realize the benefits of properly grounding out the car, but its there.
Im sure every car gets some electrical power loss; but of course ymmv; some cars may be worse than others.
( i.e. fuel pump rewire. )

 

[V62GST]

I've just bought HKS Earth Ground Kit
http://http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ord-Auto~performance-HKS~Earth~Ground~Wire~System-1-6873.htm

But I dont know how to install it.. i know there are various ground points that i need to install but i dont know WHERE!!!

also YES i've done search and Vfaq but no luck, all im getting is DYI Ground Kit that is just different

BUT is DYI ground points and points for earth ground the same?

also pic will help with installs

 

[denniegst]

ground points and earth ground are the same. this DIY kit should help you: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75889