Grey Anti-sieze ok?

[4gfun]

I am seeing alot of posts where many say that grey anti-sieze is not the thing to use. I see some other posts where copper anti-sieze should be used instead.

I am just wondering what is so bad about the grey stuff. Most of the local shops around here don't carry the copper stuff unfortunately.

Is the grey good enough for my exhaust manifold studs and turbo bolts?

I figure something is better than nothing? I figure it would be.

Thanks

 

[MiroDSM]

For that area I don't think it would be effective since it would burn off. I think thats why they say its no good, That being said I used it on my turbo to manifold bolts since like you say something is better than nothing. I haven't had to remove but I'm hoping for no snapped bolts.

 

[JusMX141]

NEVER use standard gray (aluminum) anti-seize on high-temp applications or it will do the opposite of what it's intended. The aluminum flakes in the product will melt and fill in the gaps between the threads of the bolt and housing, and you'll never get them out.

You're better-off installing the bolts dry, using nothing more than a little lightweight oil to achieve proper torque.

From a previous thread:

DO NOT use regular anti-seize on turbo bolts. Regular anti-seize is based on aluminum, so once the carrier lubricant evaporates or dissipates over time the only thing that is left are tiny aluminum flakes. This is fine for basic bolts that never see heat.

Now take tiny aluminum flakes and heat them to 1600*. What happens? They melt, fill in the gaps in the threads, then once they cool they basically weld the bolt to the housing.

Basically, you screwed yourself by using regular anti-seize. Stainless steel is just steel with high amounts of nickel, so you'd need nickel anti-seize if you don't want this to happen again.

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[Kapok6]

Justin, how about copper antiseize? I haven't had bad results with copper yet on turbo bolts, o2 sensor, or spark plugs.

 

[zedicus]

the aluminum flake actually galls stainless and makes the bolt impossible to remove. copper based anti-seize works great, it still melts at high temp but doesnt react to the metal so it actually flows in and doesnt cause damage.

 

[dsmarmy777gst]

i wish i would have known this two years ago when i first installed my bolt on bep hx35 mated up to my fp manifold. its been a 1 piece item ever since! since then i have learned the copper is better! and now i know the silver does the opposite of what its supposed to do

 

[4gfun]

ewwww , already put the grey on my studs....will leave them alone but am not going to screw around with that stuff on the turbo bolts

Thanks

 

[zedicus]

careful of your wording, there IS silver based anti-seize, mostly used in the aero industry. and a bottle of it is worth more then many of our entire vehicles, but it works great. do not use an aluminum product on stainless, if they come together youre SOL.

actually stainless is not a great fastener, its only benefit being rust prevention. but its softness and re-activeness to other metals make it bind worse then rusted steel. the best fasteners are high grade oil impregnated (the matte black ones). or aluminum alloy or titanium. but the tuner and ricer crowed made sure that the shiny stainless kits will be around and miss-used for years to come.

just because its big and shiny doesnt mean it should be stuck in a hole.

i wish i would have known this two years ago when i first installed my bolt on bep hx35 mated up to my fp manifold. its been a 1 piece item ever since! since then i have learned the copper is better! and now i know the silver does the opposite of what its supposed to do

 

[MiroDSM]

Well f*#%# I wish I would have known this before hand. Oh well excuse to go bigger turbo and such

 

[Ronny Cordova]

I've snapped off many a head stud that someone slapped anti-seize on, really is more trouble than it is worth.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I have been using "jetlube" pure copper anti seize. it's meant to be used on aircraft and aerospace jet engines. and I have never had a problem yet.

Jet-Lube of Canada Ltd. - SS-30 - Pure Copper High Temperature Ani-Seize - World Leaders in Anti-Seize, Sealants and Lubrication

 

[seattleshawn]

So I'm going to add my 2 cents to this topic and you can do with it what you please. I spent 18 years of my working career as an aircraft mechanic for 2 different major airlines before moving on to a desk job. Jet engines have ignitors which are used to light the engine off. They are basically very big high discharge spark plugs and as you can imagen they are in a very high heat area. According to the maintenance manual you are suppose to apply anti-seize to the threads of the ignitors. Any mechanic that spent any time working on jet engines will tell you never put anti-seize on the threads or you will never be able to get them out. To this day I never put anti-seize on anything in high heat areas and I have yet to regret not using it. Like i said, just my 2 cents

 

[DeadlyScone]

Copper anti-seize is good for 2000* i believe. I'll have to get me some of that nickle stuff, seems like a great idea.

 

[danielkile]

dont use grey! you will never get them out!

 

[Firsts tuner]

So I'm going to add my 2 cents to this topic and you can do with it what you please. I spent 18 years of my working career as an aircraft mechanic for 2 different major airlines before moving on to a desk job. Jet engines have ignitors which are used to light the engine off. They are basically very big high discharge spark plugs and as you can imagen they are in a very high heat area. According to the maintenance manual you are suppose to apply anti-seize to the threads of the ignitors. Any mechanic that spent any time working on jet engines will tell you never put anti-seize on the threads or you will never be able to get them out. To this day I never put anti-seize on anything in high heat areas and I have yet to regret not using it. Like i said, just my 2 cents

+1 on that I work on Apaches and our ietm says to put it on the igniters but like you we never do. We do have some stuff I have "borrowed" for home use on atv engines that seems to work pretty well, I think it's just graphite in petrolatum. What about a dry film lubricant in these situations would that work. I have used it on exhaust bolts in the past?

 

[white92talontsi]

I agree fully with what everyone else has said here. I have not used anti seize on anything turbo related ever and it seems to be working.

 

[AwD4g63TsI]

+1 on that I work on Apaches and our ietm says to put it on the igniters but like you we never do. We do have some stuff I have "borrowed" for home use on atv engines that seems to work pretty well, I think it's just graphite in petrolatum. What about a dry film lubricant in these situations would that work. I have used it on exhaust bolts in the past?

I wouldn't personally use the dry film I think you're talking about. We use them on our blade pins and new crew chief seat pallet rails. I'm a -60 maintainer, but I assume you use them for Apache blade pins too....did you ever notice how it has clumped up when you remove blades? I have a feeling it would clump up on the threads of bolts as well, but then again, I've never personally tried it.

 

[born2tune]

+1 on that I work on Apaches and our ietm says to put it on the igniters but like you we never do. We do have some stuff I have "borrowed" for home use on atv engines that seems to work pretty well, I think it's just graphite in petrolatum. What about a dry film lubricant in these situations would that work. I have used it on exhaust bolts in the past?

I am an Apache technical inspector and as you know we DO follow the IETM word for word. But neither the engines or APU igniters do not call for anti-seize. and in any part that it does you must understand that its not the anti-seize that you buy at autozone, these turbines have been tested for years and the engineers have determined to use certain POL to prolong the life of said component. its not up to us to decide whether we should apply it on or not, at least not until an ASAM, or any related SOF comes out.

I wouldn't personally use the dry film I think you're talking about. We use them on our blade pins and new crew chief seat pallet rails. I'm a -60 maintainer, but I assume you use them for Apache blade pins too....did you ever notice how it has clumped up when you remove blades? I have a feeling it would clump up on the threads of bolts as well, but then again, I've never personally tried it.

Us 64 guys don't use the solid film on that, we use the type 2 cpc instead. but if I may allow to contradict myself from the comment above, we don't apply the cpc because it too becomes gunked up, and a real PITA to remove. instead we only clean them real good with either JP8 or isopropyl alcohol. btw, what brigade/battalion are you in? I work at Sabre heliport off gate 10.

And to the Op, my opinion is that a slight coat of engine oil on the threads of the bolts for the turbo is good enough. I wouldn't recommend using any anti-seize at all in there, my reasoning is because you create too much lubrication in the chamber and instead of reaching the torque (the measurement of friction resistance) you go way beyond the limit due to the added lubricity, stretching the bolt or "elongating" the bolt by "over-torquing" it unknowingly and this will cause premature bolt failure, cracks in the bolt's shank, damage to the manifold or damage on the threads of the turbo exhaust housing. may lead to exhaust leaks as well.

 

[AwD4g63TsI]

Us 64 guys don't use the solid film on that, we use the type 2 cpc instead. but if I may allow to contradict myself from the comment above, we don't apply the cpc because it too becomes gunked up, and a real PITA to remove. instead we only clean them real good with either JP8 or isopropyl alcohol. btw, what brigade/battalion are you in? I work at Sabre heliport off gate 10.

Interesting. Our solid film just rubs off the wear points and is also an extreme PITA to remove. I'm with the 'Stalkers. Since we rarely leave the compound I'm not too familiar with Sabre...are you guys NEXT to us, or across the runway on the side with the shopette?

 

[born2tune]

Interesting. Our solid film just rubs off the wear points and is also an extreme PITA to remove. I'm with the 'Stalkers. Since we rarely leave the compound I'm not too familiar with Sabre...are you guys NEXT to us, or across the runway on the side with the shopette?

There is the mini shoppette by us, but im not sure if you mean the shoppette by gate 7.

remember sabre is actually off post.

We use solid film on main rotor head/ drive plate bolts. after we spray them on the threads we bake them for about 30 minutes and that ensures good lubricity and proper torque for those bolts. (anti corrosion as well)