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2G Greetings from Korea! 98 GS-T Spyder - Gas smell from passenger rear wheel well ONLY while driving⁠

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ethan yoon

Probationary Member
4
5
Sep 4, 2026
Seoul, Asia
Hi everyone,

I'm a 21-year-old DSM enthusiast living in South Korea. I recently acquired my dream car—a 1998 Eclipse GS-T Spyder! As you can imagine, keeping a 2G DSM alive here in Korea is a constant battle with rare parts and high shipping costs, but I absolutely love this car and want to fix it right.

Lately, I've run into a frustrating issue that's driving me crazy:

Symptoms & What I've checked:
* I get a strong raw gas smell coming from the rear passenger wheel well / fuel door area, but ONLY while driving.
* I already checked the fuel gas cap—the seal is fine and it clicks normally, so that's ruled out.
* There is NO gas smell inside the cabin or trunk at all.
* After parking the car for a few hours, the smell completely vanishes.

Since there is zero smell in the interior, I don't think it's the fuel pump top plate gasket under the rear seat.

My guess is that sloshing fuel and tank pressure while driving is causing gas/vapors to leak out through a rusted Fuel Filler Neck or dry-rotted EVAP/vent hoses hidden behind the inner fender liner.

Questions:
1. Has anyone experienced this exact symptom (smell outside near the wheel well only while driving)? Was it a rusted-through filler neck under the rubber boot/liner, or dry-rotted vent lines?
2. I'm planning to import parts to overhaul the whole filler neck setup, but I want to be 100% sure about the part numbers before ordering to avoid expensive return shipping to Korea. Could anyone confirm the exact part numbers (or reliable aftermarket equivalent part numbers like Spectra FN906 / FNH121) for a 1998 GS-T Spyder fuel filler neck and hoses?
3. Since importing parts to Korea takes time and expensive shipping, are there any other small hoses, seals, or lines around that wheel arch I should order and replace all at once?

Any advice from experienced DSMers would mean the world to a young owner trying to save this Spyder overseas. Thank you so much!
 
Yes, 4 years ago I had the exact same thing on my 1999 GST and your guess is correct. It will be a pinhole (or larger hole) in a rusted fuel filler neck (this was my case and the most likely thing for you too), or a hole on the top half of the fuel tank, or a dry rotted hose. You don't smell anything while not moving because of no fuel sloshing and the hole is probably above the fuel level in the tank (in my case the smell went away if the tank was near empty). You'll have to examine these items right after driving (first remove the filler tube protector shield and fender liner if needed) to see which, but I'd bet it's the filler neck with all the rust it gets from right behind the RR wheel. I got the Spectra Premium FN906 fuel filler neck for my GST (FWD) and it fit perfectly. You'll need to get the proper one for FWD versus AWD. The FWD has extra tubes on it and a liquid separator assembly, where the AWD doesn't. I've attached pics of mine (old one and new one). I painted the new one with black rustoleum to help with the rust. I also replaced the hoses and made extra shields around the filler tube as an extra precautionary measures.

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네, 4년 전에 저도 제 1999년식 GST에서 똑같은 문제를 겪었습니다. 말씀하신 대로 연료 주입구에 녹이 슬어 작은 구멍(또는 더 큰 구멍)이 생겼거나(제 경우였고, 당신의 경우에도 가장 가능성이 높습니다), 연료 탱크 윗부분에 구멍이 났거나, 호스가 삭아서 부식되었을 가능성이 큽니다. 차가 멈춰 있을 때는 연료가 출렁거리지 않기 때문에 냄새가 나지 않고, 구멍은 연료 탱크의 연료 수위보다 위에 있을 가능성이 높습니다(제 경우에는 연료 탱크가 거의 비어 있을 때 냄새가 사라졌습니다). 주행 직후에 이 부분들을 자세히 살펴봐야 합니다(필요하다면 먼저 연료 주입구 보호 덮개와 펜더 라이너를 제거하세요). 제 생각에는 뒷바퀴 바로 뒤쪽에 있는 연료 주입구가 녹이 많이 슬어서 문제일 가능성이 큽니다. 저는 제 GST(전륜구동)에 Spectra Premium FN906 연료 주입구 넥을 사용했는데 딱 맞았습니다. 전륜구동용과 사륜구동용에 맞는 제품을 구매해야 합니다. 전륜구동용에는 추가 튜브와 액체 분리 장치가 있지만, 사륜구동용에는 없습니다. 제 차 사진(기존 것과 새 것)을 첨부했습니다. 새 차에는 녹 방지를 위해 검은색 러스트올륨 페인트를 칠했습니다. 호스도 교체했고, 예방 차원에서 주입구 주변에 보호 덮개도 추가로 만들었습니다.

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정말 감사합니다! 자세한 답변과 부품 번호 추천, 그리고 사진까지 보내주셔서 한국에 있는 저에게 정말 큰 도움이 되었습니다!

당신이 99년식 GST에서 똑같은 문제를 해결했다는 이야기를 들으니, 연료 주입구가 문제의 원인이라는 확신이 더욱 커졌습니다.

부품을 주문하고 작업에 착수하기 전에 몇 가지 간단한 추가 질문이 있습니다.

1. 연료 주입구와 함께 고무 호스를 교체하셨다고 하셨는데, 해당 호스(특히 주 연료 주입 호스와 통풍 호스)의 정확한 부품 번호나 내경을 기억하시나요?
2. 전반적으로, 이 작업은 잭 스탠드를 사용해서 충분히 직접 할 수 있는 작업인가요?
3. 튜브 주변에 추가 보호 덮개를 제작하는 데 어떤 재료나 방법을 사용하셨나요? 저도 도로 파편을 막고 향후 녹 발생을 방지하기 위해 당신의 방법을 꼭 따라하고 싶습니다!

다시 한번, 바다 건너편에 있는 어린 DSM 직원을 도와주시는 데 시간을 내주셔서 정말 감사합니다. 진심으로 감사드려요!

Google Translated:
Thank you so much! Your detailed response, part number recommendations, and photos have been incredibly helpful to me here in Korea.

Hearing that you resolved the exact same issue on a '99 GST has made me even more confident that the fuel filler neck is the culprit.

I have a few quick follow-up questions before I order the parts and start the job:

1. You mentioned replacing the rubber hoses along with the filler neck; do you happen to recall the exact part numbers or inner diameters for those hoses (specifically the main filler hose and the vent hose)?
2. Overall, is this a job that can reasonably be done as a DIY project using just jack stands?
3. What materials or methods did you use to create the extra protective covering around the tube? I’d really like to follow your lead to block road debris and prevent future rust!

Once again, thank you so much for taking the time to help out a young DSM enthusiast all the way over here. I truly appreciate it!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
정말 감사합니다! 자세한 답변과 부품 번호 추천, 그리고 사진까지 보내주셔서 한국에 있는 저에게 정말 큰 도움이 되었습니다!

당신이 99년식 GST에서 똑같은 문제를 해결했다는 이야기를 들으니, 연료 주입구가 문제의 원인이라는 확신이 더욱 커졌습니다.

부품을 주문하고 작업에 착수하기 전에 몇 가지 간단한 추가 질문이 있습니다.

1. 연료 주입구와 함께 고무 호스를 교체하셨다고 하셨는데, 해당 호스(특히 주 연료 주입 호스와 통풍 호스)의 정확한 부품 번호나 내경을 기억하시나요?
2. 전반적으로, 이 작업은 잭 스탠드를 사용해서 충분히 직접 할 수 있는 작업인가요?
3. 튜브 주변에 추가 보호 덮개를 제작하는 데 어떤 재료나 방법을 사용하셨나요? 저도 도로 파편을 막고 향후 녹 발생을 방지하기 위해 당신의 방법을 꼭 따라하고 싶습니다!

다시 한번, 바다 건너편에 있는 어린 DSM 직원을 도와주시는 데 시간을 내주셔서 정말 감사합니다. 진심으로 감사드려요!

Google Translated:
Thank you so much! Your detailed response, part number recommendations, and photos have been incredibly helpful to me here in Korea.

Hearing that you resolved the exact same issue on a '99 GST has made me even more confident that the fuel filler neck is the culprit.

I have a few quick follow-up questions before I order the parts and start the job:

1. You mentioned replacing the rubber hoses along with the filler neck; do you happen to recall the exact part numbers or inner diameters for those hoses (specifically the main filler hose and the vent hose)?
2. Overall, is this a job that can reasonably be done as a DIY project using just jack stands?
3. What materials or methods did you use to create the extra protective covering around the tube? I’d really like to follow your lead to block road debris and prevent future rust!

Once again, thank you so much for taking the time to help out a young DSM enthusiast all the way over here. I truly appreciate it!
1. I finally sold the car 2 years ago (after 25 years of the best car I've ever owned - I had bought it new) so it's hard to remember. I think my main hose was ok and couldn't find one anyway, so I reused it. The other vent hoses that I could get to (like ones to liquid separator) had no part numbers so I made them myself out of gasoline resistant fuel hose. I didn't want to drop the tank so didn't replace any that I couldn't get to without dropping the tank.

2. Yes. Expect a lot of rust. The filler tube was totally destroyed with rust by the time I finally got it out, so get that part before you begin.

3. I think I just blocked the area around that curved heavy metal "fuel tank filler tube protector" with some rubber mud flap I had. That protector piece wasn't large enough to keep the mud out, nor was the fender liner covering it well enough there. I didn't actually cover the filler tube in that spot - I just deflected it away with my mud flap, and said that's good enough. So my homemade mud flap deflector kept the mud out where the fender liner couldn't. The rest of the filler tube I just painted and left alone.
 
If you need the main filler hose Mitsubishi part number (or some vapor hose that you can't make yourself), tell me your VIN, and which hose, and I can look it up on the Mitsubishi ASA database. But most places don't carry those Mitsubishi parts anymore so it won't help you. Still at least you'll have the part number for searching. The one for my 99 GST is MR432575.
 
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If you need the main filler hose Mitsubishi part number (or some vapor hose that you can't make yourself), tell me your VIN, and which hose, and I can look it up on the Mitsubishi ASA database. But most places don't carry those Mitsubishi parts anymore so it won't help you. Still at least you'll have the part number for searching. The one for my 99 GST is MR432575.
Thank you so much for your thorough and helpful advice!

I actually checked my Japanese ASA database (since my car is a JDM Spyder), and it turns out the Spyder layout uses a different part number: MB923792. Unfortunately, that part is completely discontinued and there are no direct aftermarket replacements available for this specific Spyder line.

Since the FN906 won't fit, I'm planning to drop the filler neck and take it to a welding shop to cut out the rusted section and weld in a fresh pipe, then finish it off with Zinc spray and Rust-Oleum as you suggested.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your expertise—it really helped me

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I recall seeing a thread on here were someone used a universal kit to make the hoses themselves, I’m confident he posted the dimensions , which is what OP is looking for as well. Unfortunately I cannot find it.

Additionally be prepared to snap every one of the bolts that connect to the flange / gasket surface, behind the gas lid and also the larger bolts that hold the assembly to the frame, but let them soak in lubricant if possible to avoid this.
 
Anayama claims they have MB923792.

I just wanted to say a huge thank you for taking the time to check your stock and find these parts for me!

To be honest, sourcing these parts in Korea has been really tough, so your willingness to dig through your inventory and help out truly means a lot to me. I'm deeply touched by your kindness and support for a fellow 2G DSMer.

Thanks again for all your help!

Best regards,
 
I'm just a DSM owner like you - not a store/dealer with inventory.
Anayama lists your part on their web site - but I've found that doesn't always mean they actually have it. So ask if they actually have one in stock that they will send to you in Korea.
 
Amayama is pretty nice to deal with.
I see they do show the main rubber hose MR432575 as "out of stock" with a "subscribe to part availability" link there. They don't call it "unavailable" or "out of production" like they sometimes do.

I need to catch up on my Seoul Tuners videos. I see they have changed the YouTube channel name to ZIP
They were always sort of a club, having meets and food and stuff. Videos like this one. I hope they are still doing things like this.
 
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