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got two of the four prothane motor mounts in!

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bmoha2

15+ Year Contributor
1,046
1
Mar 3, 2007
madison, Wisconsin
I did the front and the passenger sides so far. Ran out of time! man is that a workout! Pretty sore stiff. My passenger side mount wasn't blown but it was sagging a lot. I think I can say that the tranny side of the motor sits about three quarters on an inch up higher now. I was pretty surprised at how soft and squishy the stock motor mount is/was. I took it out and drilled all around the edge of it and then connected the drill holes. Then I cut out the inner metal ring and popped the new Prothane mounts in. The front of the car feels tighter now. I really didn't notice too much more for vibration than before.:talon:
 
My first two were a pain also. I used a drill and a hacksaw. On the last two I used a torch and sawzall. The last two were easy.
 
I haven't had any luck with the tranny and I didn't bother to attempt the rear. The front and driver side were a piece of cake with a little help from my friend with a vise and nice hacksaw.
 
Oil pan is the best way. I'm curious as to how you got the tranny mount. I had so much trouble on the attempt. No way I could get it over the studs.

IIRC I believe I ended up grinding the studs down a bit to be able to lift the mount up and over those damn things.

bmoha2, you should be fine with a jack under the oil pan if you don't leave if that way for days. Just remember to use a wood block between the pan and jack to distribute the weight over a larger area. You can also use 2 jacks with wood blocks, one under oil pan and one under tranny bellhousing so that each carries some of the weight.
 
Tim, you can see here which studs I ended up shortening and how much I took off to be able to get the mount off(this is looking from the front of the car towards the firewall). I used a cutoff wheel.
 

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I thought it was a cinch. I put the car up on ramps and then jacked up the oil pan with a solid piece of wood. The stock motor mount came out practically in two pieces. Not from me just from being worn out and torn. Now that three of the four motor mounts are in, the motor sits a lot higher than ti did before. Maybe almost an inch on the driver's side. I took it out for a spin and immediately noticed the difference. The whole front end feels much tighter. I did notice a bit more vibration at lower rpms but nothing that alarmed me. I did a couple launches and probably had a big**** eating grin on my face. I had been hearing some clunking sounds when I did some more aggressive launches and even had some wheel hop. Al:talon:l that is eliminated. All translated into forward motion! Definitively a worthwhile mod!!!
 
Even with a block of wood, I would never ever jack up a car under the oil pan. EVER!!! I have seen it done and its not pretty, oil everywhere, broken flanges for the pan, bolts broken, its a lot of time and more money wasted for stupid neglegence. Just jack it under another mount, sub frame, etc... Just be careful when doing this. Yes, they are a pain, but well worth it...
 
Tim, you can see here which studs I ended up shortening and how much I took off to be able to get the mount off(this is looking from the front of the car towards the firewall). I used a cutoff wheel.

OMG You cut off a lot man. When I attempted it I was maybe at most in need of another 1/2 inch before they were over the studs.
 
I just supported the motor by it. The weight of the car was sitting on the ramps. I had the other three engine mounts in as I did it. It seems like the shifting is more precise now? My motor was moving a lot with the old blown mounts. Probably a half inch in either direction under load. I killed my afpr fuel pressure gauge when the motor torqued and smacked the face of it. That gauge was probably close to half an inch away from the throttle body. When I cut down the studs on the tranny side, I didn't cut that much either. I still left a little bit of the taper on it. When i put in the driver's side mount I had a little trouble getting the back of the mount (the side towards the driver) to line up. The front went in fine and I was able to slide the bolt in but couldn't catch the threads in the back. I knew it was close. I threaded the bolt in from the back and used it to line up the back side of the mount and then put it back in from the front and voila slid right in and bolted it down. No problem!:talon:
 
I agree that firewall motor mount was a pain, turning it upside down to get it between the brackets then rotating it around to bolt it down. Took me a few hours, mashed fingers, scraped knuckles and a few beer's to figure that one out :)
 
Even with a block of wood, I would never ever jack up a car under the oil pan. EVER!!! I have seen it done and its not pretty, oil everywhere, broken flanges for the pan, bolts broken, its a lot of time and more money wasted for stupid neglegence. Just jack it under another mount, sub frame, etc... Just be careful when doing this. Yes, they are a pain, but well worth it...

I hope you didn't think that I was referring to jacking up the car from under the oil pan. If so, then of course not. To clarify, I use the jack/wood block under oil pan to remove just enough weight off of the engine (front end up on jack stands) to be able to remove/replace a mount. And as I said, only for a short time.:)


I just supported the motor by it. The weight of the car was sitting on the ramps. I had the other three engine mounts in as I did it.

Exactly.:thumb:


I agree that firewall motor mount was a pain, turning it upside down to get it between the brackets then rotating it around to bolt it down. Took me a few hours, mashed fingers, scraped knuckles and a few beer's to figure that one out :)

Yes, the rear is a bi***. I did it the same way, rotated it upside down to be able to get it out of/slide it back into the brackets.

bmoha2, if you run into any difficulty let me know. I've done the rear a few times now. It's never fun but the first time can kick your ass. I think I've got the technique down now.
 
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