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got the FMIC on, have some ??'s

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Haha, Im changing my plugs today too. Waiting for the engine to cool down right now. Here is a pic of the number 4 plug. I haven't pulled the others to see them, but i figured that number 4 would be the worst looking. Think this might help me too.
 

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I'm alot less stressed after seeing the picture of your #4 plug. I'm glad someone elses looks like crap. Was that the same plug on different sides or 2 different plugs? It looks good in the second pic (or the flash bleached it out).

But yes, if it helps you any... mine has the exactly same looking deposits, just not that heavy. Mine is also much darker and has alot more carbon on it.

I found this... http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
I don't find it very helpful because there's just too many different variations. Mine look like a combination of every picture on there.:rolleyes:
 
They are both of number 4. But all of my plugs looked almost identical. Guess my custom Kamtronix intake manifold flowes pritty even across all runners :rocks: I just did a few pulls at 18-20psi and it still has a loss of power above 6k. It isn't the same as befor though. It doesn't cut out like it was. I think that its my 2.5" exh. and stock cams and head now. I am just trying to flow too much air for my system. Time to save and buy a ton more goodies I guess :p . Guess I need to get a daily driver first though so I can get to work while I upgrade this car.

Edit:
To explain why the plug looks better on one side than the other is that the second picture is of the side facing the intake valve. I used to have water/meth injection till the pump died a little bit ago. Thats why there is some green stuff on it too. I just used -20* washer fluid which left a green film in my motor.
 
There's a few things that might cause erratic airflow signals. I can't say for sure if this is the problem you're having, so you'll just have to check and see. If the aircan is removed and the filter is resting on the frame you might get extra vibration through the maf which might throw off the readings. A rubber Home Depot type intake between the maf and the turbo might not be stiff enough to hold it's shape under the suction of WOT boosting. Typically there is about 1 to 1.5 psi vacuum between the turbo and the maf. I had a rubber Home Depot intake that caused wierd problems until I threw it in the garbage. Also, certain types of cold air intakes might blow turbulent air right at the filter, causing turblence in the maf.

An airflow spike when the BOV vents seems to be normal on most cars. When the BOV opens there's a rush of air coming into the intake pipe, some of it goes into the turbo, some goes out the maf, causing a spike in the readings. I wouldn't worry about it.

Weak ignitions tend to misfire at higher rpm as well as higher load. High load means the air/fuel charge in the cylinder is more dense, making it harder for a spark to jump the gap, i.e. more resistance. High rpms give the coils less time to recharge before firing again, leaving less energy in the coil, so it's harder to build a strong enough spark to jump the gap. As you know a smaller plug gap will help lower the resistance and give you a good strong spark.

Nasty plug pics BTW.
 
I have a metal intake pipe, but the filter/MAF aren't secured to anything. Its just held up by the BOV vent tube and the coupler to the turbo. I'll try go make a bracket for it now and see what happens.
 
I presume you are talking about my plug pics. Anyone know why I have such nasty looking deposites. Its not aluminum, I guess its from the gas. I run E10 in it right now, does that have any thing to do with it?
Anyways. I went out logging last night and besides my boost not being very consistant (ie. 20 the first pull, 18 the second, 19the third...) it ran very well. I think I will just turn the boost to about 18 and add some timing. I put one degree in the maps that I run in at WOT and still had no knock. Its very smooth now compared to befor. I think the problem, besides the deposites, whas that when I checked the gaps, they had opened up to almost .035"! No wonder it was missing at higher rpm.

To chime in on the eratic maf signal, they will do that too if you are over running them. What kinda hz are you pulling through it right now? If its not that, make sure that the air filter is not too close to the end of the maf. Of hand I cant remember what a 2g maf can looks like in full detail, but I know that on a 1g the filter can be quite close to the end of the maf. Just a sugestion.
 
I'm pulling like 2000hz with the boost at 20psi. There's no way I'm over running a 2G MAF with that reading. It also does it from the second I hit full boost and WOT, so its not a max airflow overrun. Its consistantly jagged from 3k rpm up.

I also saw worlds most rediculous BOV spike today, 4136hz!!! WTF I didn't know it could even read that high. If it messes with the MAF reading that much, its going to cause a rich spot just like venting, so why not just vent?

Yes the filter is right off the MAF and the new adapter plate I have doesn't have the smoothest entrance. Sounds like there's a good chance this could be causing it. I'm going to get one with a rounded smooth enterance.
 
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