Got the car started...but idle kinda rough.. help

[NvDiS]

ok just got the car started but it idleing pretty rough here a break down with what was done

95 GSX

stock block
stock head
stock MAF
stock CAS

hooked up all the sensors and harness

only thing i did different was the vacuum lines ...i used this diagram for the vacuume delete

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html


other things like bov recirculation pipe not done ...and radiator fluid not filled up all the way(cause of a bad hose i have to replace)...and getto rig on the coupler that attached to my intake to turbo (coupler i have to big)

idles att 900-1000 car sounds camed...

timing is good car revs past 4k

so yea im puzzled any input would be awesome



video of idle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgRUlX_7o1s

 

[sniver]

Im not sure if it sounds like a fuel issue, or a timing issue. Bad quality video. Was the motor just redone?

I disagree with taboos routing. This is how it should be.

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Boost leak test needs done, and if you maf pipe is flopping around, not sealed, that could be your issue . If its not sealed right.

 

[ExpresS]

Im not sure if it sounds like a fuel issue, or a timing issue. Bad quality video. Was the motor just redone?

I disagree with taboos routing. This is how it should be.

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Boost leak test needs done, and if you maf pipe is flopping around, not sealed, that could be your issue . If its not sealed right.

Going into the throttle body do those four numbered holes need to be SEPERATELY capped? On my car i have them going into each other. Hard to explain.

 

[NvDiS]

well the video is not meant to show the the idle ill get one of those tomorrow


no the motor isnt redone i bought the car with no head and slapped one on

in the issue with fuel im running a 1g Fuel rail and injectors i got off a 6-bolt i bought on the side..i read that they would work fine

timing is sloid everything lined up and car revs up

 

[Tyeler18]

Did you count timing teeth? With the cams lined up you should have 39 teeth the outer exhaust cam timing mark (teeth on the belt) to the intake came timing mark. The vfaq doesn't state this and it really F'ed up my timing when I did mine. It was 3 teeth off. Luckily I didn't run the car.

 

[Jafro]

You just nailed the problem with your last post.

1g fuel rail = 1g fuel pressure regulator.

1gs run lower fuel pressure than 2gs do. That's just how it is. I have all the pressures listed in the following video at 2m 12s.

YouTube - Tuning 102 - Idle Tuning

 

[NvDiS]

really?!?! wow i wonder if its really something that stupid...ok ill pick up a 2g rail tomorrow ...are the injectors good though?

 

[sniver]

4 psi of fuel pressure difference is unlikely to cause issues that severe. I think the timing sounds wrong still.

When its doing that, pull the vacuum of the fpr to bump up the fuel pressure and see if its goes away. If it does, I stand corrected and go get a different fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Tyeler18]

4 psi of fuel pressure difference is unlikely to cause issues that severe. I think the timing sounds wrong still.

I agree. It won't make that noticeable of a difference running the 1g FPR. Infact I think I ran my 1g on a 2g FPR when I was diagnosing some problems and it had no effect like his. I stand behind timing as well.

 

[Jafro]

It certainly isn't helping anything. A 2g rail on a 1g would work better than the other way around. It sounds a bit like a misfire but it's hard to tell. Does it throw a code once it's up to operating temperature (closed-loop idle)?

 

[sniver]

I can barely hear whats happening when its running. I hear a motor trying harder than normal to start.

Jafro, I agree it isn't helping, but di you agree that by temporarily unhooking the vaccum to the fpr, that we can by pass the need to spend money & determine if its a low fuel pressure issue?

 

[Jafro]

Yeah, we can agree. I was just trying to pick out things that are wrong given the information here. That's the only thing that stands out, and unless he has a clogged fuel filter, it's still getting 87% of the fuel it needs.

I don't know how to inspect his vacuum system from over the internets? I haven't bought that tool yet.

 

[sniver]

haha get him to hook up a 3bar to a com port. There ya go!

Sent from my Droid

 

[NvDiS]

I don't know how to inspect his vacuum system from over the internets? I haven't bought that tool yet.

i think they rent that out at Autozone..


anyways im kinda mixed up what it could be..

when we put the car in timing everything lined up per service manual... only thing is i dont have a timing light to really be sure

then if its the rail ..well i got someone local here that could lend it to me to be sure..

ill try disconnecting the FPR vacuum line see if that changes anything

anything else then i should check for

 

[sniver]

Fix injector wire, you haven't done this yet?
<del>Set</del> Check base timing. Opps
Eliminate your vacuum nightmare
Do a boostleak test
Do a compression test.

After you do all of that, let's talk.


Sent from my Droid

 

[Jafro]

If your timing marks all line up, all you can really do is check the timing. You can't adjust it on a '95-96. The signal comes from the crank sensor on a 2g and the ECU makes adjustments as-necessary. The pickup for the crank angle sensor is magnetic and is splined and pinned through the timing sprocket so you can't move it.

You gotta pull that FPR vacuum line to do the baseline timing test, but correct fuel pressure is very important during that test. Resolve the fuel pressure issue before relying on its results. Should be 5&#176; BTDC, and I've never encountered a '95-96 that wasn't correct if all the timing marks lined up and it didn't have a different problem.

 

[NvDiS]

ok heres an update:

at this very moment im uploading a new video with the idle

i have capped every vacuum line ecept the hose for the recirculating pipe as i am still looking for the right one

i removed the vacuum from the FPR..no change..

so whats my next step...

i know timing can be an issue ...what else can i check before ...

umm anyone out there?

 

[sniver]

A couple days late but I'm here now.

I don't recall seeing a boost leak test done. That should have been first thing done.

Its possible that a stuck open egr valve can make it run like that, try and make a block off gasket to install between the egr valve and gasket , make it out of something like tin, or a pop can. I figure you pulled the lines off anyways, so whats one more step, right?

But I just noticed you posted that answer. You have a giant hole in you intake pipe, pulling LOTS of unmeasured air in, running it very lean. Lean conditions oscillate the vacuum a motor runs at. Fix that, if that doesn't work, then try the egr. Hell put ductape over the recirc pipe just to test.

 

[lilnightmare96]

vacuum leak for sure check the injector o-rings if they r dried out n cracked that can cause rough idle. CHECK ALL COUPLERS and make sure they are very tight and set flush. if you removed the screens in the maf even the sides n bottom on stock ecu it will give rough idle. but not plugging the recirculating hole so no extra air is going in, that the ecu doesnt know. that may help??? idk but it looks to me in the video thats the real problem.

 

[rlacasse1]

Just throwing this out here cause I never saw it mentioned, or I just missed it.

You said that you didn't have the BOV resirculation tube on yet. Did you plug the hole on the intake pipe that the resirc tube connects to? Cause if you didn't then it will be running like crap because it will be pulling in unmetered air.

Oh, Sniver asked the same thing as well.

Oh, so did the last guy.

Guess that's what I get for not paying attention to the last two posts.