Ybnorml
15+ Year Contributor
- 30
- 0
- Aug 22, 2004
-
Southaven,
Mississippi
I have a 91 GS-T with about 140K miles. The belt slipped and I had the head reworked, valves changed out and everything on the front of the engine replaced, including the head studs from Jegs.
It's bone stock and before the belt slipped I ran 12 pounds of boost or less usually. I had the 7ES plugs and they ran fine, not too rich. The car ran great as far as I am concerned. So, it's back together with all the new parts and there are a few things I need insight on without posting 13 times, 1 for each thing.
The first issue is that I put the buzzer thing for the codes on the plug and it read 3 different codes. I believe they were 22,23, and 31. CAS, Crank Sensor and Knock sensor. My first thought was that the knock sensor hadn't been reconnected by the guy who finished the car for me. I put it on a rack last week, saw the knock sensor was connected and there was a gray plug between the harness and the sensor. So it's connected, but I'm wondering if it's right. Would the 3 codes be related to each other? The CEL comes on about 45 seconds after starting the car.
It was running a little rough on new plugs (6ES). I pulled them and they were dry and dark with the porcelain darker on one side than the other. I checked into this and came to the conclusion that the previous vacuum leak, dirty air filter and all the fuel additive I used contributed to this. I just bought new plugs to see how they do since I've corrected these things. Comments?
I put the laptop on the car a few nights ago. I saw alot of readings that went straight across the board. I idled and only revved to about 2 grand. I didn't drive the car, just wanted to get baseline settings and readings. Keep in mind this was with the dirty air filter and old plugs. I had like 9 counts of knock and all of my fuel trim was pretty high. Someone said the higher the leaner. I guess it could be but not from how my plugs look. Here are the 4 .CSV files that can be opened with Excel. They'll give you a better idea than just a picture.
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg1.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg2.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg3.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg4.csv
If anyone can look at these and tell me what I need to do in order to make things right I'd be greatful. I read alot in here a while ago and gathered that my O2 sensor could be going bad if it isn't already. Some of you guys have been through this whereas I haven't.
My top end started clacking a little more too. I know without a doubt that when I torqued down the cam journal caps they were to spec. I don't see them loosening up, but it sure sounds like the one in the back is the one. I'm going to retorque them and try again. I also noticed the oil looks like ass, so I'm going to say that may contribute to the clacking too. It didn't do this until a few days ago, but I only have about 200 miles on this build. Comments are welcome.
Can someone explain the MAFT to me, how it's better, what you have to do to retune and all that? I use NGK plugs and BP 93 octane only.
BTW, I had a new Civic SI rev on me when I had the boost turned down to 6 pounds (being safe) and he never was able to pass me. It was tight but my car was running like ass.
Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome.
It's bone stock and before the belt slipped I ran 12 pounds of boost or less usually. I had the 7ES plugs and they ran fine, not too rich. The car ran great as far as I am concerned. So, it's back together with all the new parts and there are a few things I need insight on without posting 13 times, 1 for each thing.
The first issue is that I put the buzzer thing for the codes on the plug and it read 3 different codes. I believe they were 22,23, and 31. CAS, Crank Sensor and Knock sensor. My first thought was that the knock sensor hadn't been reconnected by the guy who finished the car for me. I put it on a rack last week, saw the knock sensor was connected and there was a gray plug between the harness and the sensor. So it's connected, but I'm wondering if it's right. Would the 3 codes be related to each other? The CEL comes on about 45 seconds after starting the car.
It was running a little rough on new plugs (6ES). I pulled them and they were dry and dark with the porcelain darker on one side than the other. I checked into this and came to the conclusion that the previous vacuum leak, dirty air filter and all the fuel additive I used contributed to this. I just bought new plugs to see how they do since I've corrected these things. Comments?
I put the laptop on the car a few nights ago. I saw alot of readings that went straight across the board. I idled and only revved to about 2 grand. I didn't drive the car, just wanted to get baseline settings and readings. Keep in mind this was with the dirty air filter and old plugs. I had like 9 counts of knock and all of my fuel trim was pretty high. Someone said the higher the leaner. I guess it could be but not from how my plugs look. Here are the 4 .CSV files that can be opened with Excel. They'll give you a better idea than just a picture.
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg1.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg2.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg3.csv
http://www.chatsouth.net/mrs/greg4.csv
If anyone can look at these and tell me what I need to do in order to make things right I'd be greatful. I read alot in here a while ago and gathered that my O2 sensor could be going bad if it isn't already. Some of you guys have been through this whereas I haven't.
My top end started clacking a little more too. I know without a doubt that when I torqued down the cam journal caps they were to spec. I don't see them loosening up, but it sure sounds like the one in the back is the one. I'm going to retorque them and try again. I also noticed the oil looks like ass, so I'm going to say that may contribute to the clacking too. It didn't do this until a few days ago, but I only have about 200 miles on this build. Comments are welcome.
Can someone explain the MAFT to me, how it's better, what you have to do to retune and all that? I use NGK plugs and BP 93 octane only.
BTW, I had a new Civic SI rev on me when I had the boost turned down to 6 pounds (being safe) and he never was able to pass me. It was tight but my car was running like ass.
Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome.
