Good subwoofer setup?

[wmrcs]

I'm also planning on putting some small subs in my 1g and this thread has been helpful for suggestions and general info.

I'm thinking about trying my hand at making a pair of custom fiberglass boxes to tuck behind the rear wheelwells so I can keep useable trunk space.

Anyone have any input/experience on building your own fiberglass boxes or any tips for subs in a fiberglass application?

You'll need to make a mould of the corner you're sticking it in out of fiber glass, then make a skeleton and sub box and then staple fabric to it, lay resin on it, and then lay glass mat over that, and more resin on top that. Then you sand, and use body filler, sand more, more body filler, sand, prime, paint.

That's very vague but that's the idea. Do some research online for more specific stuff.

edit: here is a simple link that shows the jist of it: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Fiberglass-Subwoofer-Box/#step1

If you need more help, just look it up on YouTube or send me a PM.

 

[Silver99OZ]

I'm also planning on putting some small subs in my 1g and this thread has been helpful for suggestions and general info.

I'm thinking about trying my hand at making a pair of custom fiberglass boxes to tuck behind the rear wheelwells so I can keep useable trunk space.

Anyone have any input/experience on building your own fiberglass boxes or any tips for subs in a fiberglass application?

Here is a good link for what you want, but in a 2g.

2GNT.com - Fiberglass_Subwoofer_Enclosure

I plan on doing this soon. Im still undecided on which woofer I want to go with. I narrowed it down to the JL 8w3v3-4 or the Sundown SD-2 8 D4. Also plan on going with the same amp as the OP, the Alpine mrv-m500.

 

[wmrcs]

^^That's a real good link to get an idea of what you'll go through.

Don't discount other subs, if you have the money and mounting depth, might as well get an SA-8 because they'll have room for upgrading your amp if you get bored (not that you'll hear a huge difference between 500 watts and 1000 watts.)

Why do you want an 8?

 

[Silver99OZ]

Why do you want an 8?

An 8 should be perfect for what I am looking for. Just some nice good quality bass to compliment the factory stereo. I also want to got for a small box to take up the least amount of space.

 

[42395_skyline]

OP: Remember.. It's suppose to be the GLUE that holds it all together, not the nails. Also if you have a compresser and nail gun you can use that to hold it together, it will also go flush soupy don't have to use any puddy.

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Of course with the other woofers in hahaha.

Yup I understand that it's the glue doing all the work thanks BTW Nice setup!

An 8 should be perfect for what I am looking for. Just some nice good quality bass to compliment the factory stereo. I also want to got for a small box to take up the least amount of space.

I'm just like you Silver 99 just looking for something light. Although I don't have factory speakers in, I don't have anything amazing either. Some Pioneer speakers that came with the car when I got it. Only thing is I am pushing my maximum space with 1 12"

 

[wmrcs]

An 8 should be perfect for what I am looking for. Just some nice good quality bass to compliment the factory stereo. I also want to got for a small box to take up the least amount of space.

That's a good reason.

 

[ForsakenLash]

DAWG, you on SMD? What's your screen name? I feel like I do recognize your car... haha

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Sooo I want to do something similar to this, but my question is, are the subs open under the top? Or is there an enclosure underneath? If I was to get a Free Air 12" sub would I need to put a box under it? Or would I just build the top part for the false bottom look?

 

[wmrcs]

Sooo I want to do something similar to this, but my question is, are the subs open under the top? Or is there an enclosure underneath? If I was to get a Free Air 12" sub would I need to put a box under it? Or would I just build the top part for the false bottom look?

They're in an enclosure. If you had a free air sub (infinite baffle sub) you wouldn't need anything but the front baffle but really they're intended as enormous sealed enclosures. And designed for home use usually.... I wouldn't get one for your car.. pointless..

 

[jongraack]

Based on personal experience, if I were you I'd look in to the Power Acoustik MOFO subs and a Power Acoustik BAMF class-D mono block amp. When this combination is built properly, it is very clear and loud. I've never had a better system and I've been through all the other Eclipse, Kenwood, Alpine, JL w7/w1/w3, and so on. I have two MOFO 12's in a custom built 3/4" vented box. I built the box to exact specs required for a vented enclosure. I can give my two 12's almost the full power from the BAMF 5500.1D. There is also alot involved with wiring properly to the correct ohm, so be sure to get a sub or subs that will allow you to use the lowest ohm rating for the amp.

 

[Zufelt]

They're in an enclosure. If you had a free air sub (infinite baffle sub) you wouldn't need anything but the front baffle but really they're intended as enormous sealed enclosures. And designed for home use usually.... I wouldn't get one for your car.. pointless..

This is true, although you can always have it Ported just as I did. If you don't need your trunk it looks nice

 

[wmrcs]

Based on personal experience, if I were you I'd look in to the Power Acoustik MOFO subs and a Power Acoustik BAMF class-D mono block amp. When this combination is built properly, it is very clear and loud. I've never had a better system and I've been through all the other Eclipse, Kenwood, Alpine, JL w7/w1/w3, and so on. I have two MOFO 12's in a custom built 3/4" vented box. I built the box to exact specs required for a vented enclosure. I can give my two 12's almost the full power from the BAMF 5500.1D. There is also alot involved with wiring properly to the correct ohm, so be sure to get a sub or subs that will allow you to use the lowest ohm rating for the amp.

Hate to break it to you but that BAMF 5500.1D isn't putting out much more than 1200 watts rms. Power Acoustik, along with many many other "affordable" brands, over rate their stuff a lot. You must have had extremely poor designs for the other brands you've used because I'd use any and all of them over Power Acoustik. I'm not talking from some strange bias against them either, just knowledge of clamp testing those amps.

If you need a CHEAP amp... Hifonics or Audiopipe are the only things I'll consider.

I'm going to school for Electrical Engineering as an FYI, I have a little bit of knowledge in amplifiers and circuitry.