Good Compression. oil in coolant

[arash15]

so i have a problem and it doesnt make sense. I have a hunch that my headgasket is leaking. i did a compression test and got 160 accross the board (150 in the #1 cylinder). the car runs somewhat normally although it feels a bit sluggish. although in my coolant resovior there is oil, no coolant in the oil, just oil in the coolant. HELP ME!

 

[arash15]

That is good news, I was suspicious this might have been the problem but dependent on you knowing how fast it should crank.

I would wait on the studs until you have thoroughly cleaned the cooling system as I described previously. If you continue to get milk/opaque water then it's not clean. The oil coated every thing has no reason to mix with the water unless you include a solvent and a detergent along with it getting hot. I know it's time consuming but it must be clear and no sheen floating on the top.

Not so sure that I agree with relating sluggish running to the muck in the cooling system. With it taking a long time to get warm the temp sensor may be telling it to run rich. Watch you hoses over the coming months.

Cheers,
GTM

i never said it would take a while for it to reach operating temp. having enough oil in your coolant WILL make your car run sluggish. im speaking from my OWN experience

 

[GTM]

i never said it would take a while for it to reach operating temp. having enough oil in your coolant WILL make your car run sluggish. im speaking from my OWN experience

I would be interested in any logical reasoning you have to offer for the sluggish running. It also takes less HP when stalled, try this on your vacuum cleaner at home and either way the motor will speed up.

The HP drag can only account for so much loss. What will frequently happen is the WP seal will be drawn off it's seat (it's designed for internal pressure) take in air and the pump will cavitate. Once cavitating it takes less HP and does not want to prime.

You can see this cavitation evidence in a lot of pumps especially with a clogged radiator. What happens is the impeller will create enough suction that it will boil the water near a part of the aluminum casting with such force that it pulls off molecules of aluminum and makes pits... not to be confused with corrosion. You probably can find pictures of this in marine "propellers" (aka wheels) where they are mounted within 1/4 the diameter to the boat/ship's hull. My point being this is real and not that of some senile old fart making it up as I go along.

If it's not perfect at least you know why and you have options. I can't charge a customer for cleaning only to have them come back some weeks later with oil floating in the resivoir.

If the sluggish persists then you might want to check the temp sensor (not sender) for proper values especially if your MPG has decreased.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[arash15]

I would be interested in any logical reasoning you have to offer for the sluggish running. It also takes less HP when stalled, try this on your vacuum cleaner at home and either way the motor will speed up.

The HP drag can only account for so much loss. What will frequently happen is the WP seal will be drawn off it's seat (it's designed for internal pressure) take in air and the pump will cavitate. Once cavitating it takes less HP and does not want to prime.

You can see this cavitation evidence in a lot of pumps especially with a clogged radiator. What happens is the impeller will create enough suction that it will boil the water near a part of the aluminum casting with such force that it pulls off molecules of aluminum and makes pits... not to be confused with corrosion. You probably can find pictures of this in marine "propellers" (aka wheels) where they are mounted within 1/4 the diameter to the boat/ship's hull. My point being this is real and not that of some senile old fart making it up as I go along.

If it's not perfect at least you know why and you have options. I can't charge a customer for cleaning only to have them come back some weeks later with oil floating in the resivoir.

If the sluggish persists then you might want to check the temp sensor (not sender) for proper values especially if your MPG has decreased.

Cheers,
GTM

im good to go. i already changed that sensor 100 miles ago.