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GIVING UP........Wisemen needed

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andymoraitis said:
I'm sure the manufacturers using pushers accounted for this in their design, but most cars are pullers for a reason.

Exactly.

So, Justin. How is the car doing? Overheating still?
 
quick update here.... The car is up and running but only at 8lbs of boost, temps are around 200 at a stand still... got up to 213-220 after a wot pulls but going back down to 200

So now the onlty thing I need to do is turn it up and I think the 50 weight oil is over kill in my car cause after a pull I let off the gas and then step on it again and a puff of smoke shoots out.... Still not perfect but I can say its gettin there


THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT YOU GUYS RULE!!!!!

Justin
 
That's really awesome to hear. :thumb:

What all do you think solved it, or what did you have to do?
 
Ha thats a funny question... Made sure my water pump was good(was brand new) put two new caps on, flush the gex cool out, put new radiator fluid in, test for hydrocarbons in cooling system, replace pusher fans with stock main fan... Phew~! This weekend I am gonna make some deflectors for the front to help but other than that I think it's solved......

Also will be turning the boost up to 15 or so...
 
i think you called me on this car but i wasnt aware that you were using a fluidyne. I personally had a problem with running my fluidyne when i installed it last summer. car would try to overheat in traffic and after boost runs. i had to run the heat on full blast in order to bring the temps down. I have a feeling that you are having the same problem. If you still have the stocker try swapping it back in. Its worth a shot. The aluminum radiators transfer heat at a high rate. If your underhood temps are high you can be sure that the radiator core will overheat the coolant in a hurry, but can be cooled down quickly by running the heat on full blast. The plastic stock core actually worked better in my case. I ended up selling my fluidyne.
 
Since I put my main fan back in I haven't overheated yet (knock on wood)... I still need to put my dump tube on and I am putting some deflectors on the bottom...

I'll take some pics of it when I get it done...

Justin
 
glenneclipsegsx said:
i think you called me on this car but i wasnt aware that you were using a fluidyne. I personally had a problem with running my fluidyne when i installed it last summer. car would try to overheat in traffic and after boost runs. i had to run the heat on full blast in order to bring the temps down. I have a feeling that you are having the same problem. If you still have the stocker try swapping it back in. Its worth a shot. The aluminum radiators transfer heat at a high rate. If your underhood temps are high you can be sure that the radiator core will overheat the coolant in a hurry, but can be cooled down quickly by running the heat on full blast. The plastic stock core actually worked better in my case. I ended up selling my fluidyne.

Wow.....that's crazy. I thought that a Fluidyne was worth its weight in Gold when it came to lowering coolant temps. Certainly not saying what you said isn't true, I definitely believe you. It's good to know. I've actually heard it 3 ways now: Fluidyne dramatically helps reduce coolants temps, it has no effect at all, and now, it actually made things worse. Very interesting.
 
Well I did notice that the engine bay is a lot hotter than my 97's..... The 97 still has a stock radiator...But when tge 97 starts to overheat there is no stopping it and with my fluidyne I have a little longer since it does help at a higher temp...
 
a hood vent will get all that heat out of the engine bay. or you could cut the bumper some more to get more air in. you dont want to be running on hte edge and worry about overheating down the line. run straight distilled watter instead of a mix of water/coolant and see what the results are.
 
I USED to have the same issue, I've got Fluidyne, stock fans on high all the time, silicon hoses, fmic. I did a trick from a post that keeps my temps 196-200 @ 95 degrees ambient. I got an oem thermostat, not autozone and drilled 2 3/8" or some small size bit can't remember on the outer edge of stat which allows coolant to start flowing a little sooner through the engine instead of waiting for the thermostat to open on its own. A major improvement, no ducting at all. I also did the Grey Forrest hood mod but that was before the stat trick. I urge you to try it:D
 
Well thought I would give a quick update on the overheating situation....

Car is still starting to overheat, I say starting because it doesn't overheat till after the car has been driven for almost 45 minutes.... after the 45 it seems as though the radiator is heat soaked and can not dissapate any more heat....

Tonight I put some deflectors on between the radiator and FMIC and will be testing it tommorrow.... Ill post the results and a pic of what I did...

thanx for the support~!!!!!!
 
Justins99GSX said:
Well thought I would give a quick update on the overheating situation....

Car is still starting to overheat, I say starting because it doesn't overheat till after the car has been driven for almost 45 minutes.... after the 45 it seems as though the radiator is heat soaked and can not dissapate any more heat....

Tonight I put some deflectors on between the radiator and FMIC and will be testing it tommorrow.... Ill post the results and a pic of what I did...

thanx for the support~!!!!!!
I hope you use option on your DSMLINK to have your fans all the time on....
 
mirkoelek has a good point, i had cooling issues with my system, (fmic, koyo,new pump,etc...) well i finally realized that i could either put the fans on high at all times or just set the fans to come on earyler. So i set mine to come on when the car hit 180 and the car hasn't overheated since.
 
Under coolant offset. The factory fans comes on at 200 F, so if you want it to come on at 190 F, you would put in a value of 10 into the coolant offset. I believe it is under ECU --> DASH --> Coolant offset. GOODLUCK!
 
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