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1G Getting no Spark, CAS or ignitor?

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90ATEGST

15+ Year Contributor
49
0
Dec 27, 2007
Gulfport, Mississippi
Vehicle: 90 Talon TSi

Hey guys, I've searched around and can't get find a clear consensus on whats going on with my car.

I just got the car put together. I got it as a non running shell and was ready to crank her up last night. The car cranks over fine, but wont fire up. ECU is fresh from ECMTuning with ECMLink V3 installed. I checked everything I could, I'm getting fuel but no spark, timing is dead on. I removed the CAS from the motor with it still plugged in and spun it around and I could hear the fuel pump come on and the injectors pulse on and off but I'm not getting spark. I tested the continuity on the coil pack and the figures check out OK. Could the CAS be bad only to the point of not activating spark but still activating fuel or does this sound like a bad ignitor?

The car cranks but will not even try to stumble or start, just cranking.

Any insight will be awesome!
 
Check the power transistor and wiring to it. Check wiring from CAS to ECU.
 
I'm pretty sure that it is the ignitor, hopefully. I just want to make sure it is before I go buying one. The one I am using I bought used off eBay :coy: (oem though).

Would a bad ignitor cause no spark at all?

In my searching I found that I do not have the noise filter behind the intake manifold plugged in, nor do I have it at all. Would this cause a no start?
 
Alrighty where do I start, just got my build put together not too long ago and no I'm having starting issues.

At first I found that I wasn't getting spark, I ended up ordering a new PTU and after installing it acted like it wanted to start but still wouldn't run without me having to constantly feather the gas.

So I looked more into it and found that cylinders 2&3 weren't getting spark while 1&4 were. I borrowed a friends coil pack and still the same condition persisted. I checked the continuity from pin 55 at the ECU to the PTU plug and it checks out. Checked for power at that wire when turned to the ON position and was getting voltage. Checked for continuity from the cyl 2&3 wire from the PTU to the coil pack plug, everything checked out O.K. Tested the primary and secondary coils and that checked out.

I messed with the pins a little on the plug to the PTU thinking maybe there was a bad connection.

So I pulled the CAS off the motor and with the key in the ON position and all the plugs pulled out and wires attached I spun it by hand and I could see spark on all 4 but it was intermittent on 2&3..

I've checked everything I can think of, can someone please help me!

Setup is hx40 on FIC 1650's with ECMLink and SD
 
I gotta ask

Did you gap your plugs and if you did what did you gap them to ?

You are having an electrical issue for sure

As I am having the same concern and found that it is one of the 8 wires that go pass y trans towards the alternator and I have a 420 nt

Check your connections and make sure no wires are exposed and depending on how old your harness is? Wires could e brittle enough where your not getting a good connection somewhere

Just a thought
 
I had a similar issue with a 95 with the 420a. I put a crate engine in but failed to transfer the magnet off of the camshaft to the new engine. So my cas wasn't reading anything . It acted like it was going to start sometimes.
 
Well, there is no magnet on a 1g cam. So thats not it. Youre basically getting intermittent spark on 2 plugs. Tested or replaced CAS? Def check ECU. A visual inspection MAY tell you something, most likely not though.
 
I didn't see where anybody had posted that it was a 1g he was building
 
Last edited:
i Assumed its his car in the avatar. Could be wrong. Maybe its a 2g, but he didnt say anything about a crank sensor so sounds like a 1g. Def not a 2g nt LOL, dsmlink installed.
 
I agree, likely a 1g. Weird that feathering the throttle makes it run. What's the deal there? After reading through that link on no-start diag, there's some good info in there about transistor testing. Worth taking a look.
 
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