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General clutch Q? before i buy

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darkiller_666

15+ Year Contributor
477
0
Feb 19, 2008
Salina, Kansas
I need my project talon to be my DD due to finances and losing my neon. All i need now to roll again is a new clutch. Money is absolutely limited for me so i cant replace the ACT2100. I loved the clutch besides the TOB that failed. I dont know a whole alot about the differences in clutches so tell me which of these would be better. There within 30 dollars of each other and right in my budget to get her going. My mods are pretty light and i just want to be able to go to work in this. Not trying to hold down big numbers. Jus limp along tell i can get my money right.

Info
* This complete clutch kit includes: F1 Racing Xtreme® 2200 lbs HD Pressure Plate
* F1 Racing 6-puck Rigid Solid Copper Ceramic Disc (225mm x 20 spline)
* Release Bearing
* Alignment Tool
* Installation Guide


Horsepower Rating: 463 HP / Torque Capacity: 412 ft/lbs

* F1 Racing Xtreme® FRX300 clutch kit includes: F1 Racing Xtreme® 2200 lbs Pressure Plate
* F1 Racing 'MIBA' 6-puck sprung copper ceramic disc (225mm x 20 spline)
* Release Bearing
* Alignment Tool
* Installation Guide


Horsepower Rating: 445 HP / Torque Capacity: 420 ft/lbs
 
first off how much are you spending on these clutches? If your just using it as a daily driver and not dumping the clutch at 4 grand all the time, all you neeed is a stock clutch kit, unless you plan on making 400 hp soon i dont think it would be worth buying either one unless you are getting a sweet deal and they are less expensive then stock.
 
I am looking at getting these for under 200 shipped. like i said my car is not heavily modded or putting out big numbers. But i do drive the piss outa my car normally. Then again that might be why i spent 4 months in the last year broken. But i would like the clutch to handle my driving habits if i can get my money straight sometime soon. Anyways back to the original question, which do u think is a better set up? Good deal for under 200?
 
^^
You might just have to replace the street/puck disk for the ACT clutch and be able to get away with it...

And make sure you pick up an OEM TOB for whatever clutch you decide to get, would hate to see you run into the same problem twice :ohdamn:
 
Yeah i am definately grabbing an OEM TOB. I have yet to pull the trannie off to check how bad things are messed up. I pulled the boot off the Slave cylinder and looked into the trans and it didnt look pretty. Im pretty sure there was some part of the clutch broken off. Or at least bent badly. How much does just the street pluck disk run? I am leaning towards replacing the whole thing, but like mentioned i have about 300 dollars to get the car rolling and be my DD for at least 6 months before i can start investing again. Not fun daily driving, as in heavy pedal or what? I loved the old ACT held like a champ. I drove the crap outa my car. Cant even count the the clutch drops ive done. Ive taken it out sliding around in the rain multiple times. Anyways still back to the original Q?

P.S. This is an ebay clutch kit. I don't wanna be burnt for trying it out, but its my perogitive and what i wanna do. Just wondering the differences between the highlighted things in original post.
 
Once i have the tranny off how can i tell if all i need is the ACT street disk? I have a feeling its gunna be painfully obvious, but assuming the best what should i look for to know what needs replaced? There is also this kit for 50 less.
* This complete clutch kit includes: F1 Racing Stage 2 Heavy-Duty Pressure Plate
* F1 Racing Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar Disc (225mm, 20 spline)
* Release Bearing
* Alignment Tool
* Installation Guide


Horsepower Rating: 307 HP / Torque Capacity: 275 ft/lbs

Will this disk be better for DD if i do have to replace everything?
 
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