FWD Clutch Install

[Cool Mr Steve]

Ok, I'm doing a clutch install and I have read a couple of different write-ups on the swap. All I can find right now are the AWD clutch swap write-ups, but I could have sworn I read one article (with pictures) that was done on a FWD. Does anyone know where this was?

 

[Cool Mr Steve]

Ok, it looks like I just needed to look for a couple more minutes. It was This one. What differences are there between the 1g FWD clutch swap and the 2g FWD?

 

[Dream On]

Its pretty straight forward. Do everything the same as the AWD, except the driveshaft and t-case stuff. Axles, intake/ic pipes, batter & battery tray, starter, slave cylinder, shift cables, speed sensor, back up light switch, just basically anything thats in your way. It'll be pretty clear once you start doing it.

Edit: After looking over that guide, the only real thing I noticed was that the tranny mount is different between the 1g and 2g. It is welded on part way on a 2g, so just unbolt what you see, there aren't any bolts in the wheel well for that mount. There is also a rear transmission mount on a 2g if I recall correctly. Same thing here, just unbolt it. Just bring a friend or two and it shouldn't be too bad. Good luck.

Edit2: Removing the axles is different also on a 1g compared to a 2g. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100676 I'm hoping this is my last edit...

 

[DSMcamaro]

here is another nice AWD walk through. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/clutch-1G.html
I've done an AWD and FWD(both 1G's) clutch job and the only difference is less crap to remove, like stated above.

edit: woops, thought you were 1G. here is a link to a 2G AWD install
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/clutch-2G.html

 

[98eclipseRS]

there is not much difference between teh two generations but there are some that make a difference. Honeslty, however, its really not that hard to do its more intimidating than anythign else. So here's how it goes, my directions are going to be slightly more simple than laser speed demons but really its not that hard, really.


So first thing you are going to want to do is obviously jack the car up and get it as high in the air as you can(the higher the better it will make your life a million times easier). You will also want to jack upt he rear too, to make the car level. This makes it easier to work in the engine bay area and also to drain the tranny fluid.

After jacking up the car and setting it all up you will want to drain the tranny fluid, its a very large shallow toped hex bolt on the side of the tranny by the passenger side axle. I think its a 24mm, possibly larger and very easy to strip if you are not careful. Next let your tranny fluild drain completley. At this point in time you will want to remove both your wheels and the castle nuts that hold your axles to the hub assembly. To do this have a friend go into the car and push the brake pedal as hard as they can while you use a breaker bar to loosen it(use lots of pb blaster and be patient this part will be hard and take a while).


You will next want to take off the cross member that runs longitudinal acorss the bottom of the engine. AT this point in time you will also want to use several zipties to zipties the motor to your strut tower brace using the engine hoist bracket. On a 2g three of the four engine mounts are located on your tranny. Next we are moving back to the axles for the next part. You don't need to remove the strut from the suspension just unbolt the tie rod and push the hub/rotor/brake caliper as far out of the way as you can. Push towards teh rear of the car for this. Then give the axles a good tug. they should come otu with not problem if they don't use a small prybar between the axles and the tranny and it should pop out.

There are also some small braces that need to come out on both the passanger and driver side of the car(they have 5bolts and you willknow what I am talking about when you get under the car). Now we are moving back into the engine bay. You will want to remove the intake pipe, the upper intercooler pipe. The throttle body,the battery, the battery tray(which is a pain in the ass), disconect the shifter linkage, and remove the starter(two 12mm bolts on the front of the tranny and the starter slides out from the back). Next you will want to disconect the speed sensor, it is held in by 1 8mm bolt and its plastic and breaks easy to be careful, the last thing you want to do is break off the gear into your tranny and have to pull that apart.

Now you will want to loosen teh rear tranny mount, its a royal pain in the ass and there is no good way at getting to it so your just going to have to be patient as ####. Now you need to remove the the slave cylynder and the bracket that holds the weird expansion chamber thing that 2g's have.

Don't worry your almost done now its all just muscleing it out of the car. Now you need to remove the small cover that goes over the area where the tranny goes further down than the engine, now remove all the tranny bolts it should start to pull apart from the engine at the bottom. This part will require more than one person so get some friends and some beer. You need to pull a jack under the tranny and get it so its just touching the tranny, now you will to loosen the remaining tranny mount(the passanger side one), hopefully you left the zipties fairly loose so that the engine will start to angle downwords(it makes it way easier to pull the tranny out. Now lower the jack a bit and use a flathead screwdriver to pry the tranny from the engine and slowly wiggle it back and forth untill it comes apart from the engine. After you have the tranny out you will need an impart gun to remove the clutch from the flywheel or use a peice of aluminum stock that attaches to two clutch bolts and will then rest on something else solid so that the engine does not turn when you try to loosen the bolts.

Replace your clutch, put it all back together and go do some burnouts on your new clutch set up.