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420A Fuel Pump not priming on 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS OZ Rally Edition 420a

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Evolutionjuan

Probationary Member
17
3
Apr 15, 2023
SACRAMENTO, California
Hi Everyone,

Just bought a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS OZ Rally Special Edition project car. From what I can tell so far, as I turn the key I do not hear the fuel pump priming. Please help me #savetheeclipse. Any help is greatly appreciated, ive also checked other threads and watched the good ole youtube videos. If anyone can point me in the right direction. I am fairly new to the Eclipse platform. I also have a 1997 GST project car ill also later on be asking about. I have done the below so far:

- No power to fuel pump indicated on multimeter when key is turned and when vehicle is cranking.
- Removed fuel pump and tested out of car- its working.
- Checked fuse box in engine bay and inside vehicle under dashboard
- Swapped MFI & Fuel Pump relay located next to each other by the clutch master cylinder (just swapped never tested, will be doing that soon)
- Swapped relays under radio (just swapped never tested, will be doing that soon)

If none of the above, I've heard it could be a crank and/or camshaft position sensor?

Vehicle has an aftermarket alarm but could the OEM security system prevent power to the fuel? (if yes, how do i check or disable?).

I will also be checking the switch by the clutch pedal although without pressing on the clutch pedal the car wont attempt to crank until pushed in so that tells me its working, right? Let me know if you guys would like any specific pictures, posted just a few unspecific ones.

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Cam sensor and crank sensor have no effect on fuel pump operation. Has the car ever ran since you bought it?
@BLACK'98DSM thanks for the reply. Not yet, I just recently picked up the car about 2 weeks ago. I have had very limited time to work on the car at the moment due to work obligations. I will also be checking the timing of the cams and crank to make sure that all checks out. I purchased another Manual GS ECU yesterday from a picknpull so ill have that as a backup. Car has been sitting for about a year from the last time it was running from what the previous seller told me. Per the vehicle smog test history, last passed smog in 2019 so could have sat for longer.
 
remove fuel rail hose and try feed 12 to 20V straight to the pump let pump do it's thing and see if any gas comes out, suggesting to put fuel rail hose end to a empty bottle, also I see this everyday at work when car get towed in cuz it won't start and customer states that fuel pump is not working, but there's no gas in the tank, so please make sure there's gas in the tank no matter how stupid it sounds
 
Not just fuel but fresh fuel. If it hasn't been driven in over a year then the fuel is no good. And the mechanical timing also has no effect on fuel pump operation but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check.
 
Not just fuel but fresh fuel. If it hasn't been driven in over a year then the fuel is no good. And the mechanical timing also has no effect on fuel pump operation but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check.
I wouldn't go that far until basics have been checked first, as you said, timing has nothing to do with fuel delivery
 
Thanks everyone, I’ll go ahead and try your recommendations and post back with an update.
I just had the same issue with my -99 GS oz racing last week, original fuel pump finally gave up, but I fixed the issue on my Talon ESi as I mentioned earlier with feeding 12V to it, well, I used my 20V DeWalt battery, that fixed the issue
 
Update: We’re back in business baby!!!! Spent some time yesterday rechecking the relays and using the multimeter on just about everything afore mentioned and got nowhere. I remembered I still had the ECU I had just purchased a few days ago so I decided to swap it.

After disconnecting the battery, I unplugged the ecu and noticed a very small amount perhaps 2-3 drops collectively of some brownish type of oil-like liquid (I say this as I can’t completely verify what is was but it resembled the color and consistency of oil, could have been dirt mixed in with some moisture that got trapped, the engine bay desperately needs to be degreased) near the bottom of the plug and pins. I used some electrical parts cleaner on the plug and ecu pins and got that nicely cleaned up.

I installed the recently purchased ecu and hooked the battery back up. Went inside the car and put the key in and as I turned it to the on position I heard the fuel pump prime louder than ever as it needed to build pressure back up. At this point I was excited. I turned the key repeatedly to the off and on position to build the fuel pressure. Turned the key to start and she started right up with no crazy idling or odd ticks or knocks. It did however sound louder than I was expecting for a stock motor and realized an exhaust leak was the cause. It’s definitely the headers as they also have a crappy welding patch down the middle. As you move away from the headers the noise isn’t as pronounced. That being said, I’m ecstatic as can be that I’m getting 1 step closer to #savingtheeclipse. As there doesn’t seem to be Cali legal headers for this platform, I’ll more than likely source some headers from picknpull. Thanks a bunch to everyone who helped and is reading this now.
 
I have a stock header which had a crack on it but I weld it shut and old style tubular header, might be eBay brand but haven't found same one. Me if you need either of them
 
I have a stock header which had a crack on it but I weld it shut and old style tubular header, might be eBay brand but haven't found same one. Me if you need either of them
Ah thanks for offering and yea I can’t imagine what shipping would cost on some headers but probably the same or at around the same cost of getting them at picknpull. Let me try my luck at a Pick-n-Pull and/or in my area first. Really appreciate the offer and support of everyone.
 
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