Fuel line setup, AN fittings on sending unit 2g AWD?!?

[Beckholt99GSX]

Ok so here is my plans on my 2g AWD, I'm replacing the fuel lines using russell proclassic, -8an feed and -6an return, running a single 300lph pump intank for now (bosch 044 later inline).

Couple issues I have came across was if AN fittings can be fitted to the stock sending unit, or what modifications have to be done to make it work.

The other issue I'm stumped on after realizing that there is also another sending unit on the other side of the gas tank, duh!! Do I need to replace the line that runs between the two sending units also? I guess I do not fully understand the whole return system on my car. I understand that the pump pulls fuel from both sides of the "saddles" through a siphoning system, but I need to get this figured out soon so I can get my car put back together, help me out please, thanks in advance

 

[chinola69]

Anyone running the Teflon fuel lines? I have read running the regular braided lines emits a gas smell.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

\


No other modifications needed. That's the beauty of it. Simply weld on a bung and it's done. You can run any intank pump without modifying anything.

Here's mine old setup with a Denso Supra TT pump.

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I'm looking to do a rewire and a -6AN send/return with just welding bungs as well but on the rewire I was thinking of doing what you've done here and wire the cables down into the hanger as well or would this be unnecessary for just having a 255HP Walbro? Meaning I want to just bypass it like you've done here.

By any chance do you have any more pictures of what you done on this? I've got an idea of what I want to do, but trying to figure the best setup. Thanks!

 

[99gst_racer]

I'm not much of an electrican. I'm not sure what gauge wire would be the best to run to a Wally pump. In my case, I just used what I had laying around and it just happened to be larger than it needed to be. It just seems to not make much sense to spend time rewiring everything except for that last foot of wiring going to the pump.

This is the only other pic I could find:

 

[TSITurbo95]

^ Purty!!

 

[BadAss4Bangers]

Can someone explain the best way to get the white connector off the sending unit? I see that it is pinched but I cannot even get a pair of small needle nose pliers in there to bend it back. I am assuming its a really bad idea to weld the bung on there with the white connector present.

 

[Boosted187]

I know this is a month or so old thread but I noticed a lot of guys using the straight bulkhead fitting onto the cover then screwing the 90 fitting onto it. I had my rx7 like that and it became a clearance issue and these fittings fit much cleaner.

Earl's 983308 Earl's AN Adapter Bulkhead Nuts & Fittings

I need to attach my -6 return line back to the system and didn't see how you guys were doing this. Any quick answers? To be honest I just picked up a 2G that was completely built with a different tank setup and now I have the factory tank back in and the ss lines still ran to that area.

Thanks,

Doug

Maybe something like this with rubber fuel line for a short run to the sending unit?

Earl's 983308 Earl's AN Adapter Bulkhead Nuts & Fittings

 

[99gst_racer]

There isn't enough room on the 2G pump assembly to run a bulkhead along with hose ends. This method works on a 1G, but not a 2G. The only way a bulkhead can be used is when you use a -10 bulkhead and bore it out to allow the pump outlet to fit inside of the bulkhead. The downside is that you're left with an overly large -10 outlet.

Either way, I still feel the best approach is to weld an AN bung directly to the top of the pump hanger.

 

[AWDtalontsi96]

I like the look of a clean weld with the -6 fitting , but what does the underneith side look like? how r u connecting the outlet of the fuel pump to the bottom of the sending unit?

 

[Paul@RTM]

Lawrence, many people simply thread on a -6 hose end onto the 14mm inverted flare fitting there. It's not something that I would ever recommend (in fact, I recommend against it) because there's no positive seal of a flare or at the thread. Nevertheless, many people have done it and many people don't have leaks. It's a gamble at best.

This. Just like Paul says, it's NOT the proper way to do it, but lots of people have done it with success anyway. A number of vendors (Extreme, STM, RTM) sell a kit that uses this very system. RTM happens to point out that it's not really a proper connection.

Anyway, how does this connection seal? I suspect that the flare of the steel tubing presses hard and crushes a bit into the aluminum 37-degree angle and that makes the seal. This is why I suspect it's probably important that the -AN fitting be aluminum as opposed to steel. But however it works, it's commonly known to work. My current DSM (95 AWD) uses this connection without issues and my previous one (90 AWD) did as well. Lots of others report success as well. But, no denying it, seal or not, it's still not a proper connection.

 

[Moonlight GSX]

That would be due to cross-threading right (allowing the aluminum to give to the steel)? Or at least that's what it sounds like, I could be wrong.

Edit:
Not complete cross-threading, but a slight "cutting" into the other thread angle (similar to cross-threading).

 

[Paul@RTM]

That would be due to cross-threading right (allowing the aluminum to give to the steel)? Or at least that's what it sounds like, I could be wrong.
Edit:
Not complete cross-threading, but a slight "cutting" into the other thread angle (similar to cross-threading).

No, it doesn't seal on the threads, that much is known. It seals in much the same way as -AN (37 degree male) to -AN (37 degree female) except the steel line isn't 37 degrees, it probably imitates a 45 degree male or some such.

 

[twicks69]

You could always use a -6AN aluminum SECO-7 seal to take up the difference in flare angles. Works just fine.

 

[1Gina2G]

It's funny this is being brought up^^

I recently had some old hardlines from another 2G car to mess with, before I practiced on my own fuel hanger,outside the car. Managed to get the flare fittings off the lines with the help of a torch and some PB blaster.

screwed the male factory hardline fitting into the female -6an fittting, threads in nice and easy, as if a perfect fit. Also get's tight smoothly, I know at the very connection inside though its not perfect. But I could deffinatley see this holding seals without a problem, if one were to also use thread sealent.

 

[twicks69]

I prefer a conical flared crush washer over thread sealant when dealing with gasoline.

 

[Paul@RTM]

-6AN aluminum SECO-7 seal

I never knew such a washer/seal existed. Neato! I'm going to get some of these and experiment with a few hard lines and hose ends. Thanks for the education.

 

[twicks69]

No problem. They offer copper for steel on steel lines, and aluminum for aluminum on steel or aluminum on aluminum lines.

They are stocked at www.pegasusautoracing.com.

Been using them for nearly a decade.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Isnt there someone on this forum who welds the AN fittings to the fuel pump sending unit? I would buy it but IDK. Saw it a few weeks ago I believe...

 

[agentorange313]

Isnt there someone on this forum who welds the AN fittings to the fuel pump sending unit? I would buy it but IDK. Saw it a few weeks ago I believe...

VTEC this had 2g hangers with AN feed fitting, and they were powdercaoted...oooo

I got mine wended locally, but the guy kinda sucks, the hanger is a bit warped now. Just make sure who is doing it is competent.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/441135-1g-fuel-pump-hanger.html

 

[Moonlight GSX]

VTEC this had 2g hangers with AN feed fitting, and they were powdercaoted...oooo

I got mine wended locally, but the guy kinda sucks, the hanger is a bit warped now. Just make sure who is doing it is competent.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/441135-1g-fuel-pump-hanger.html

They are nice, bought mine from VTEC, love it!

 

[1killerEVO]

R.C.I has the proper flare fitting for the feed line at the tank if you are able to break it loose. I cut off the rubber hose and took the carrier assembly out, heated up the connector and it broke loose no problem.

 

[Boost Junkie]

There isn't enough room on the 2G pump assembly to run a bulkhead along with hose ends.

I've been able to fit two -8an bulkheads on the 2G assembly. Takes the right order of assembly, but it works. The black line is a feed line and I had to add the blue one as a secondary return; two 044s are too much for the siphon.

 

[rr06rs]

I've been able to fit two -8an bulkheads on the 2G assembly. Takes the right order of assembly, but it works. The black line is a feed line and I had to add the blue one as a secondary return; two 044s are too much for the siphon.

Do you ever run into fuel slosh/starvation issues with this setup under cornering, braking, accelerating?

 

[Boost Junkie]

I haven't pushed the setup with low fuel, but its never shown a problem.

[edit] To clarify, I had to add a check valve on the second return to force the siphon to work. Then everything worked great.

 

[finesse49ers]

Just had these two 8AN fittings welded on in place of the stock hardlines a few days ago. Sandblasting and coating will be done later. I've been running a Walbro 400 in this assembly.

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[Moonlight GSX]

Just had these two 8AN fittings welded on in place of the stock hardlines a few days ago. Sandblasting and coating will be done later. I've been running a Walbro 400 in this assembly.

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Would that be done in the same manner as just the feed line as well? I was thinking of possibly doing the same thing but... didn't know how well it would work on the return since the line is much smaller on the inside (compared to the feed).