92_talon_awd
15+ Year Contributor
- 169
- 0
- Jan 13, 2008
-
Knoxville,
Tennessee
I have been rallycrossing my car in SCCA sanctioned races for the last few months and the offroading has been beating up my suspension. I broke a ball joint on the front lateral link my first time which was easy to fix. Last week though, I had a catastrophic upper control arm failure. I searched all over but couldn't find anything on it except for two threads that were short and unresolved. So after fixing it today, I thought I'd post pictures of my fix in case anybody else has had this problem. The problem was that the sleeve behind the strut tower broke through the fenderwell and the control arm was just hanging.
Here you can see where it is broken and I've removed the excess sheetmetal that was hanging and buffed off the paint.
View from the bottom.
Here I tacked the "sleeve" in place on the top and bottom holes and underneath. I then cleaned up the welds.
View from the bottom.
I made a template out of cardboard and then traced it onto a piece of steel.
Removed the strut assembly and then really cleaned up the area good.
My brace after cutting, bending, and drilling a 3/4" hole in it to allow the control arm to bolt up.
I used the bolt from the control arm and installed the brace, tightening the control arm bolt with the impact, real tight.
Beat the upper piece into shape with a mini sledge.
Weld Time
2 Coats of 3M underbody coating to weatherproof.
Found a washer that was the same thickness of the steel bracing and put it on the front to equalize the height difference.
Aligned it and done! Note I had a previous negative camber up front due to Eibach drop springs. No biggie to me, probably correct the issue with eccentric ball joints in the future.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here you can see where it is broken and I've removed the excess sheetmetal that was hanging and buffed off the paint.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
View from the bottom.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here I tacked the "sleeve" in place on the top and bottom holes and underneath. I then cleaned up the welds.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
View from the bottom.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I made a template out of cardboard and then traced it onto a piece of steel.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Removed the strut assembly and then really cleaned up the area good.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
My brace after cutting, bending, and drilling a 3/4" hole in it to allow the control arm to bolt up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I used the bolt from the control arm and installed the brace, tightening the control arm bolt with the impact, real tight.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Beat the upper piece into shape with a mini sledge.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Weld Time

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
2 Coats of 3M underbody coating to weatherproof.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Found a washer that was the same thickness of the steel bracing and put it on the front to equalize the height difference.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Aligned it and done! Note I had a previous negative camber up front due to Eibach drop springs. No biggie to me, probably correct the issue with eccentric ball joints in the future.
Attachments
You must be registered for see attachments list