from 12's to 11's

[awd4u]

hey guy's just want opinions how to get my car to 11's on pump 94 w/water meth, i ran 12.7 at 108mph, 16g, 660 injectors, stock intake, stock exhaust mani, dsmlink v3, racegas. stock bottom end, and mildy done head with hks 272's... i want to run 11's consitantly, im doing 2.3 stroker, intake mani, exhaust mani, 1050cc injectors, iam looking to get FP green turbo, but not 100% sure what would be good. easier to get to 11's the better. this car is street driven mostly but i also take it to the track often. give me some opinions if i can hit 11's or do i need to add or make changes to the build. thanks!

 

[bastarddsm]

fp green would easily put you in the 11's on pump gas with a good IC.

 

[AWD_Launch]

More boost and better tune, maybe more track time and lighten the weight.

Bigger turbo, more boost.

More boost, better tune and a 50-75 shot of nitrous.

 

[codym]

Boo nitrous. Not a big fan of spray. Considering the fact your almost doubling your injectors size and doing exhaust and intake and turbo you should be in 11s no problem.

 

[awd4u]

iam runnning the kineticuit fmic, its 24 iches long, 12.5 inches height, 3.5 inch thick so that should be good. and i don't want to run nitrous !

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

What is your budget?

With some seat time, a good set of tires and setting up the two-step in link to get the 60' time down you could do it on the 16G.

FP Green is another good choice, but for that price with that much fuel system and a meth system I would take advantage of something a bit bigger.

 

[awd4u]

budget, 7- 8000$

 

[L1v1ng L3g3nd]

Since you live in Canada you could get rid of your A/C.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Honestly with proper suspension and tires, maybe more boost you should hit 11's with your current setup. It just depends on the driver. Plus we dont know anything about what your running. You told us 16g and 660's. That doesnt tell us if you have an aftermarket fuel pump, how much boost your running, or really anything.

272's, stock intake and exhaust mani's and a 16g pushing 25psi should put a decent driver into the 11.80's roughly. A 2 step may help you, but what tires and suspension are you running? Post a time slip even. The more information we have from you, the more people can offer up advice.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Honestly with proper suspension and tires, maybe more boost you should hit 11's with your current setup. It just depends on the driver. Plus we dont know anything about what your running. You told us 16g and 660's. That doesnt tell us if you have an aftermarket fuel pump, how much boost your running, or really anything.

272's, stock intake and exhaust mani's and a 16g pushing 25psi should put a decent driver into the 11.80's roughly. A 2 step may help you, but what tires and suspension are you running? Post a time slip even. The more information we have from you, the more people can offer up advice.

I agree. What was your 60' and what tires are you using? Launch and traction are the most important aspects of drag racing. You should be able to drop into the 11's as is.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Basically your not going to drive it out of the hole and get a decent RT or 60ft. You may MPH on the top end, but your not getting anything off the line driving it out. If your not in boost before your launch your not getting the most out of a launch. Im guessing with questions like this your not side stepping your brake to build boost at the line, and thus your either launching to hard and not hooking, or your driving out of the hole and really killing your ET. Give us a full rundown of your setup. A video would help even more of a pass you have made, but thats only for driving technique more than anything.

What tires are your running, what tire pressure are you running, what is your stance on the car ( toe in/out, camber in/out, caster in/out.) whats your footprint look like on launch? What suspension? Is it adjustable? What have you adjusted it to if it is? Whats your base fuel pressure? How much boost are you running? Whats your AF ratio thru the pass? How are you shifting it? What clutch are you running? Anything done to the trans? I mean do u need me to go on?

All of these things will effect your ET. Your footprint is the biggest one. Because that will tell you how much of your tire is actually making contact with the ground on your launch. From there you can start to tune your suspension to your method of driving. However if your not launching correctly, then its all for not and you will need to learn to properly drive the car before you can get a good read on where your car sits. None of this is meant as a slight on your skills as a driver, or your ability to race a car. But 95% of drag racing is the driver. 4% is the setup, and 1% is pure luck that something doesnt break.

For example, On my bike, I can run 10.4xx's all day. But someone lighter and a better rider will put it into the 9.70's all day. Now mind you thats a 200hp crotch rocket, but exact same bike, exact same setup, difference is the person at the controls.

 

[awd4u]

i ran 25 psi, competition clutch stage4, stock trans, Kyb AGX adjustable in the back, gr2's upfront, 255 walbro, 225/50/17 summer tires set at 15 psi at the track, 60ft times are anywhere 1.7-1.9, i got 2step, building about 8-10 psi off launch. i will be upgrading to stage 1 trans, would you guy's also suggest to rub NLTS?, anyway heres a cuple of my vids racing. let me know what you guy's think.

Vick's DSM - first 12 second pass - YouTube

Vick's DSM - 13.0 pass - YouTube

i don't know what my suspension is set at, and ya my a/c is tooken out. i don't know how to set my suspension, i got stock FPR, im pretty sure my wideband reads 11.8 goin to the track. 1st gear i take it to 7.7, 2nd 6.3, 3rd, 6000

 

[CrawlinZX14]

i ran 25 psi, competition clutch stage4, stock trans, Kyb AGX adjustable in the back, gr2's upfront, 255 walbro, 225/50/17 summer tires set at 15 psi at the track, 60ft times are anywhere 1.7-1.9, i got 2step, building about 8-10 psi off launch. i will be upgrading to stage 1 trans, would you guy's also suggest to rub NLTS?, anyway heres a cuple of my vids racing. let me know what you guy's think.

Vick's DSM - first 12 second pass - YouTube

Vick's DSM - 13.0 pass - YouTube

i don't know what my suspension is set at, and ya my a/c is tooken out. i don't know how to set my suspension, i got stock FPR, im pretty sure my wideband reads 11.8 goin to the track. 1st gear i take it to 7.7, 2nd 6.3, 3rd, 6000

That is ALL driver error. I hate to tell you, but your launching WAY to high, thus your wheel spin like that. You are missing your 2nd gear shift completely, and I can tell you already your geometrics are way off in your suspension. Add some damper to the rears, disconnect your front sway bar, run 14psi in your tires, and dont launch any higher than 6300rpm. 2nd gear you need to hit your shift about 6400 and 3rd something like 6200.

You really need to work on the driving and get more seat time. You are not launching at all, since you are not building boost or hitting your box until after the light is green. Honestly it seems like you need to take some lessons from other drivers. Take some driving lessons and learn the fine points at the track. Its not just gas n go. Each driver will develop their own technique, but learning what they do will help you develop your own.

 

[awd4u]

thanks for the info man, my launch controll is set up at 5000rpm, so you are saying my 2nd gear im taking it too high of an rpm?

i thought my driving skills were fine, but i should get some advice... but different turbo set-up (fp green) would that turbo be shifted at a higher rpm?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

A turbo doesn't change your shift points, cams do. They control your power band. And you can hear you over reving 1'st and 2nd like crazy. Really, 1st is just to get you rolling. Most larger HP cars with nearly stock transmissions will launch in 2nd because first being so short in nature and the power they make will overpower the parasidic loss of launching in 2nd.

It honestly sounds like you have a lot of seat time practice ahead of you, and a lot of tuning to do. Not just on your engine, but in your car overall. Tuning is not just a motor thing in racing. Its everything. Its your suspention, your tires, chassis flex, body roll, gearing, hell some people go as far as waxing and polishing every leading edge of the car to reduce drag. My honest opinion is for you to practice on that setup for atleast a year and see if you cant improve your ET's. I think adjusting your suspension will benefit you the most however.

You should have your rear tires set slightly in like \\ // so when you launch and the rear squats they look like || || on the ground. Opposite your fronts which should look like // \\ so as the nose is pulled up they stay planted on the ground || ||. you want as much of your tires to contact the ground on launches as possible. And depending on your rim size and tire sidewall size, you may benefit more from smaller rims and tires with bigger sidewalls so you can allow for tire flex on your launch too. If you have 17" rims you may be ok, anything larger, you dont have enough sidewall. Personally I only run 15in rims on the track. I can use a tall enough tire with those to still allow a good contact patch on my launches. Watch any video's of drag racing launches, and you will almost never see a large rimed vehicle, and thats because larger rims mean smaller side walls and no flex, and thus tire spin.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Kyb AGX adjustable in the back... i don't know what my suspension is set at, i don't know how to set my suspension

would you guy's also suggest to rub NLTS?

For the AGX's in the back there is a knob with numbers 1-8. 1 is soft and 8 is firm. You will want to crank them up to 8 at the dragstrip to keep the rear from squatting too much. Your front's aren't adjustable so you have nothing to worry about there.

I would recommend using the NLTS, you've got it, use it. When I first started using the NLTS it took me a while to get used to it because it feels weird not lifting the gas, but it did feel like it helped make the shifts faster.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

For the AGX's in the back there is a knob with numbers 1-8. 1 is soft and 8 is firm. You will want to crank them up to 8 at the dragstrip to keep the rear from squatting too much. Your front's aren't adjustable so you have nothing to worry about there.

I would recommend using the NLTS, you've got it, use it. When I first started using the NLTS it took me a while to get used to it because it feels weird not lifting the gas, but it did feel like it helped make the shifts faster.

Cranking to 8 is not always the answer. Its about being soft enough for weight transfer, and stiff enough for the front to stick too. But try disconnecting your sway bar. It helps in weight transfer too.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Cranking to 8 is not always the answer. Its about being soft enough for weight transfer, and stiff enough for the front to stick too. But try disconnecting your sway bar. It helps in weight transfer too.

They are AGX's, they aren't THAT stiff.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

They are AGX's, they aren't THAT stiff.

Shocks are not the only factor in that tho. His spring rate will def play into effect on that.

 

[awd4u]

Wow i diint know suspension was a big deal in this

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

The suspension setup is going to be part of what determines how well you get that power to the ground, and how its distributed under launch.

If this is a serious goal of yours, I would also agree on pulling the front sway bar.

 

[ktime]

you get that wheel spin out your time will drop right much

 

[laser90]

Do you have valve springs? Why are you only revving to 6300-6000?

 

[dsmftw93]

you can get to the 11's on the set up you had with a better tune and a nice gut on the car but the fpgreen will get you there easily with the 2.3 stroker

 

[awd4u]

im reving to 6000 rpm area because the 16g run's out of steam in the higher rpm. it drops efficiency at 6800 rpm, dyno proven on my behalf.