The_Partout_Spot
Probationary Member
- 11
- 56
- Oct 8, 2021
-
long Island,
New York
Had a lot people ask me about the viscous coupler set up / conversion. Sorry if I didn’t reply.
So why? Well because of Honda's.
I’ve seen and have Honda friends running freelander Viscous coupler set up & the wagon viscous coupler
)
TEST 1 (STREET TEST): So far driving on the street I have not had any drivetrain binding , tire chirp / skipping on turns , and tight turns are also smooth with the center diff welded and a lsd insert for the front diff. Even pushing the car is easier. If you know , you know. So already that’s a bonus for guys with center welded diffs and likes to street drive.
If you already have 1310 Universals on your DSM Driveshaft then the adaptation will be direct bolt on from rear tail shaft to the viscous coupler and the driveshaft BUT you’d have to shorten the driveshaft up front and make brackets and NO the floor does not have to be cut for this to fit. It actually clears it good.
For more info / interest PM me, can guide you in the right direction or even offer you the service. My current set up consist of auto t case w/ 300m upgrade (25 spline) billet sonnax yoke w/ shortened DSS 3.5” 950hp driveshaft. Would be interesting to see if someone can test this on a stock driveshaft / t case and give data..
Next test will be at the track, that’s the real test..
So why? Well because of Honda's.
I’ve seen and have Honda friends running freelander Viscous coupler set up & the wagon viscous coupler
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with great success. A genuine brand new Freelander (30k) viscous coupler are proven to hold 1,400whp+ and 1.3sec 60' times rather then aftermarket ones (Chinese) with 60K fluid. I’ve seen many high horsepower DSMs rip axle cups w/ 8.8 swaps and even with the 3KGT and axle breakage. This in theory would help stop that from happening. But I’ll be doing it with a 4-Bolt Rear diff w/ Upgraded rear axles from waxles (Mike Wagner) rather than upgrading to a 8.8 or 3KGT set up as I see won’t be necessary with this coupler on driveshaft. (Just look at Honda wagon diffs which are smaller then our 4 Bolt rears & rear axles that are longer then ours
) TEST 1 (STREET TEST): So far driving on the street I have not had any drivetrain binding , tire chirp / skipping on turns , and tight turns are also smooth with the center diff welded and a lsd insert for the front diff. Even pushing the car is easier. If you know , you know. So already that’s a bonus for guys with center welded diffs and likes to street drive.
If you already have 1310 Universals on your DSM Driveshaft then the adaptation will be direct bolt on from rear tail shaft to the viscous coupler and the driveshaft BUT you’d have to shorten the driveshaft up front and make brackets and NO the floor does not have to be cut for this to fit. It actually clears it good.
For more info / interest PM me, can guide you in the right direction or even offer you the service. My current set up consist of auto t case w/ 300m upgrade (25 spline) billet sonnax yoke w/ shortened DSS 3.5” 950hp driveshaft. Would be interesting to see if someone can test this on a stock driveshaft / t case and give data..
Next test will be at the track, that’s the real test..
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