Fixing my shortblock

[danny_l_2005]

I took my block to check the bore and pistons. The guy said that the cylinder do not need to be bored out and that it's needs to be honed.

My question is how hard is it to hone the cylinder wall. I can rent a cylinder hone from Oreilly's for around 30 dollars. I am also in need of new rings, what rings should I get the chrome type or moly rings? Is there a special way as to putting the rings onto the piston as I read around here about ring gap clearance...I thought you only used a ring gapper to put the rings on the piston.

 

[delta448]

Using a portable drill type hone is easy enough but not ideal. You have to be wary of PTW clearances and the technique you use. Do research if you plan on not having a shop do it for you.

I'll leave ring choice up to you. I like moly.

Piston rings are usually file-to-fit. Drop one in the honed bore, square it up using a piston and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Determine how much needs removed and file that much off one end. Use ring pliers/spreaders to put them overtop of and onto the ringlands. Don't try to spread them around the skirt, just spread them enough to drop over the top of the piston.

 

[My1GLaser]

I seriously doubt that the block is perfect in a '96.

Is the block completely disassembled, rotating assembly and all? If so, then I would seriously consider getting it bored .020 over and getting new pistons/rings/bearings while you are in there. How often do you have a motor fully disassembled and at the machine shop???

Most of that depends on your goals, but you already have it apart and at the machine shop...

A ring gapper files the rings to your desired end gap. Most rings need gapped since there are many manufacturing tolerance factors, including machine shop work that makes it necessary.

A piston ring expander is for installation.

Honing can be a pain in the pecker your first time. You can take off too much material easily and also not make the crosshatch correct. My shop charged $40 to hone the cylinders, which is by far the best option IMO.

Stock rings are the best option for stock pistons, but are pricey. Nearly the cost of a set of NPR pistons & rings from Slowboy.

Just my .02.

 

[danny_l_2005]

Only the crankcase is on the motor. I will be putting new rod and main bearings even though they have not been used more than 15000 miles. I have about 100,000 miles on the motor and has the same stock rings.

I don't understand your question " 'How often do you have a motor fully disassembled and at the machine shop?' "

My goals are to be able to reach at low to mid 300hp. Right now I only want it working because I just miss driving her.

I was watching Youtube on how to properly crosshatch. I think i'll do it.

Right now I'm trying to find what rings to buy and how to properly install them to my pistons.