First GST am I going in the right direction?

[totallossgst]

Hi guys, I just bought a 1998 gst off of craigslist a week ago for $1200 because it was in a light accident, I replaced the bags and bumpercover for $50 *Craigslist once again*

Its a 5 speed with 130K miles, and so far this past week ive Installed:

Greddy FMIC with pipe kit
Turbo Xs bov
HKS Turbo Timer
MBC
Thermal Research Cat back
Vibrant filter adapter with K&n
SAFC
Boost, A/F Ratio and Pyrometer guages
Fidanza Alum Flywheel and act clutch

I am a motorcycle mechanic by trade and I dont beat the living hell out of my vehicles, I just want it to run nice and sound nice, I dont race but like power when I need it.

Im more concerned how these are known for "CrankWalk" and its something I really dont want to experience. Im replacing my timing belt and componets along with the water pump while im in there.

What do I need to be concerned with the most? The tranny was just rebuilt when I bought it and then some woman pulled out and hit him just enought to push in the bumper, crack the bumper support *fiberglass part* and blow the bags.

 

[dangler]

It sounds like you got yourself a pretty good deal. I also have a 98 talon and the engine hasn't walked yet and I beat the hell out of it at the drag strip for the last 4 years. Before that it was a daily driver. I think if yours has gone 130k and hasn't walked yet it's probably not going to. Is your A/F gauge wideband? If not get one. The parts list looks good and you're taking care of the maintenance which is really good. I'd say you'll be alright. Got any pics of the car?

 

[cabbageman97]

Nope, seems like you're in the right direction to me. Taking care of the maintenance is a +1 in my book. And +1 to the post above me too. Just no altezza taillights please.

 

[DSM1G90]

..or dumb wings....

 

[LTUDSM]

Im more concerned how these are known for "CrankWalk" and its something I really dont want to experience. Im replacing my timing belt and componets along with the water pump while im in there. .

Any Engine can walk..... my 6bolt had a crankwalk,but most of a guys will say its impossible... It's Possible... 7bolt is known more to walk the 6bolt,but after the experience i had with a 6bolt walking,i can tell you that that 6bolt and 7bolt cranks can walk....

 

[GTOJohnny67]

It sounds like you got yourself a pretty good deal. I also have a 98 talon and the engine hasn't walked yet and I beat the hell out of it at the drag strip for the last 4 years. Before that it was a daily driver. I think if yours has gone 130k and hasn't walked yet it's probably not going to. Is your A/F gauge wideband? If not get one. The parts list looks good and you're taking care of the maintenance which is really good. I'd say you'll be alright. Got any pics of the car?

I know everyone always yells WIDEBAND WIDEBAND, but the narrow band/ pyrometer set up has been proven for years. If you already have these gauges I don't see the need for a wideband.
I know there are a lot of arguments to this and pyrometers are kid of old school. I think Pyrometers are to wideband as SAFC is to DSMlink. DSMlink is better but plenty of people still tune with SAFC.

 

[totallossgst]

This is from when I first bought it,

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Ill try to get the after pix today after checking it out a little more. Im afraid of hooking up the new bags cause I dont want them to deploy of the sensor is stuck. The accident was just hard enought to set them off, no body flex but the hood did get crimped a little bit.

Im not going to do any of the clear or euro junk, im sorry but the clear and chrome look is too flashy, not to mention they are cheap. The stock whale tail is pushing it, maybe just a settle set of black and chrome 18's, black tint, and black projector hid lights.

The A/F guage is wideband, pyrometer is narrowband, I was going to pick up an oil pressguage, oil temp guage, and tach with shift light. Im running out of spots to put these, any clue where I can put the 2 guages.

I dont mind spending the money on better stuff as long as its worth it, I have been researching dsmlink and Im thinking of switching.

I know im going to hit a cut unless I switch to a 255 pump and bigger injectors, im just concerned about tuning once I get into the whole mess that I can back out. Im just looking for a decent amount of power on tap. I dont want the fastest car on the road, just something I wont get bored of.

 

[thewraith]

If you go 255 pump you need a fpr as well- go 190 and it should do unless you're going REALLY BIG.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Lots to read, you dont need a turbo timer, everyone i know have used wideband, it has a specific job. I would get it over pyromete gauge, but im not here to argue so ill leave it alone. Youve got a good start, i see you have a safc, what are you tuning with?

 

[CheaCheaBoy]

Do maintenance on everything that you are unsure of. Reliability > power.

 

[gringo72884]

i would do a boost leak test, compression test, and leak down test....change the oil. fuel filter, sparkplugs (NGK brp7es's), Magnecore 10mm sparkplug wires, etc. to make sure the car is in a good running state first...just my 2 cents

 

[totallossgst]

Hey guys, Id like to take the time to thank you for your help, I really respect your opinions and answers.

My main concern was the 2year old gas that was in it, but I took it out last night and its mostly out and I have run some fuel system cleaner through it, it was smoking like a diesel, buts clearing up now with some cam2 run through it.

Today im going to do plugs, wires, oil and filters. And yes, I know I should have done all of this right off the bat, but ive driven this car 30miles at the most, no tune on the safc, I just have it hooked up and have been doing research, and it looks like im going to go with a dsmlink.

I know the turbo timer is not a something that I need, but my girl has the tendency to hop in my cummins and boost all the way to the store without a cool down.

Im sorry guys for asking some questions that appear to already been answered but I feel that this is the best way to get current advice, because Ive read on several articles where they contradict each other.

Last question, Ill start the car and the guages all work ok, once heated up the oil pressure drops. Im thinking the oil is getting really thin once it heats up, indicating that it just needs changed, I topped it of today with some ND30 (its what I had avaliable) and it seemed to have a little more pressure, but was still low at idle.

Is that normal, or should I replace the oil pump while im at the stage of ripping apart the timing belt and water pump?

 

[GsXtC21]

Lower oil pressure at idle is normal, it should however pick back up once you began to drive around...

 

[beating4g63s]

I'm going to be the odd person in here and say you went the wrong direction, reason being, maintance is a big part of dsms instead of throwing performance parts at a car you don't know anything about, you should have gotten the timing belt, water pump, fuel filter, head gasket, and head studs replaced, along with a can of seafoam or other related product, and all fluids changed, and last but not least spark plugs and wires. seeing how you said you are going to change the timing belt I'm going to assume you don't know the history of the car. anyways as far as performance wise of the car hell yeah dude you went with a very nice setup, and that was one hell of a craigslist find good luck with it in the future.

 

[totallossgst]

It drops down very low, not at the bottom, but about a quarter inch above the bottom.

I totally understand the up-keep on the car is a must first, I came across a deal where a guy was getting rid of everything from a 2g gst spyder he was parting out. I got the plugs, wires, timing belt and componet kit from goodyear and napa water pump.

Why should the headgasket be changed? I understand the need for head studs, but is there a common failure for the stock bolts to stretch?

Any headgasket brand you recommend? I guess I can have the head gone through while im at it.

 

[gringo72884]

I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure gauge too much, often they are inaccurate. Just make sure to periodically check your oil dipstick level and you will be fine. As for maintainance, I would take the approach that you know nothing about the vehicles history....how it was driven, maintained, etc. and do everything thing you can think of that a car needs to have done to run in top notch form....oil change (possibly oil flush), coolant flush, fuel system cleaning (use BG44K...works great), plugs, plug wires, boost leak test, compression test, leakdown test, check the turbo for shaftplay, check all vacuum hoses for slits or cracking, check exhaust manifold studs and nuts to make sure they are tight....pretty much anything and everything you can think of doing that will benefit the car to run right....I would check and do. As for the headgasket...the stock headgasket and head studs work fine up until about 16psi of boost....past this I would suggest and upgrade to a OEM Mitsubishi Multilayer steel headgasket with a set of ARP headstuds. With this combo you will have piece of mind and can run 25psi-30psi safely. Just a note that it is suggested to get the head and block resurfaced when using a MLS headgasket to make sure it seals correctly. I personally didnt when I switched to a MLS headgasker...I just made sure to clean the head and block surfaces as best as possible with a razorblade, brake cleaner, and some super fine sandpaper. Then I just sprayed both surfaces with copper spray and properly torqued the headstuds. My head and block sealed perfectly...23psi and no problems what so ever. Goodluck

 

[DSM1G90]

sparkplugs (NGK brp7es's),

Only for serious modding that the "7's" are used. DD style driving, is when you do BPR6ES plugs.

But, I cheated - I went with BPR6EY's .. has the "v-groove" in the electrode so the flame isn't squenched with it fires .. gives me a bit more of a kick .....

-DSM

 

[gringo72884]

brp7es's arent strictly for heavily modded vehicles....even mildy modded dsms can benefit from the "colder" heat range....helps prevent engine knock and detonation

 

[totallossgst]

Ok, plugs, oil, filters and vac hoses are done. I know everyone is still up in the air on seafoam, Ive personally heard stories for and against. I want to belive it will clean my hla's to take away that tick on startup, but Im just iffy about using it. Ill try a little tomorrow and put 50 miles on it and dump the oil again.

I found out something very interesting about the car today. I got a full printout of the service history. The guy who owned it (single owner) was really really picky and must have noticed every squeek, squeel or wobble. All done at Family Mitsubishi, just in the last 5 years of service, theres 7 pages of documented repairs such as vibrations from plastic on plastic, sunroof seal, along with oil changes, brake services and recalls.

Im really excited to have this car.

I dont plan to run anything over stock boost, its more than enough for me, Im probably going to go with poly mounts and an aftermarket radiator.

Thanks alot guys for your help and suggestions.

 

[gringo72884]

looking at the list your list of performance parts you bought...I would recommend selling the greddy FMIC...they are one of the least efficient units on the market for our cars...I would strongly recommend the ETS Ultra race shortest route piping FMIC...this setup has the shortest piping possible...is very efficient with little pressure drop, eliminates almost any cases of knock and the craftsmanship is second to none. Look into it....goodluck

 

[DSMDriver69]

Hey good deal on the gst. i got mine for 1500 in good condition. Your lucky you only had cosmetic problems. I spun a bearing 1 week to the day after buying mine. ( i bought my whole sale through my family dealership.) But what are your ultimate plans for the car, whp wise? The fact that your already a mechanic will help alot, even though you work on moto, the same basic concepts apply, as you already know. Just my .02 dont stick with the stock t25 turbo its 1 step above a hair dryer . Theres a reason we sell them to honda owners. Look into a 14b from a 1g dsm. There cheap/ easy bolt on, and make alot more reliable power than the t25. Its only like 100$ for a 14b. BTW people have made 300hp on the stock 1g.

 

[totallossgst]

I have the Greddy mainly because I ended up only paying $500 for that, the bov, turbo timer, guages, pod, safc, and a whole crap load of other misc parts. The stock turbo had NO shaft play, but I know it is pretty small.

I have a t3/t4 left over from my 88 mxt gt project, It seems like its not going to bolt up unless I get another manifold.

Ive taken the car out a little bit more, the hids that I had on my silverado flickered because they didnt get enought voltage behind the balast to power the bulbs. They work just fine on the eclipse.

Im gonna have the leakdown test done today and let you know what happens.

Everything is tip top on the car, Im going to wait till the machine shop isnt so backed up with projects so I can have the head done. So everythings been brought back up to level and the car is running great.

I took it out tonight before the 4-8 inches of snow hits, Id figure I would try it out. Sad to say I think Im just going to sell it and get a gsx. this thing breaks traction even going into 3rd gear, and doing a steady pull in 3rd. I know that I can do susp work, but Im just wanting a good daily driver, not something thats going to feel every bump in the road.

 

[gringo72884]

GST are fun to drive....I would suggest holding off from selling it....check all the current suspension components like tie rods, axles, ball joints, control arms, bushings, etc... if any of these has worn out components or bushings they can have a negative effect on your traction....also check your tires tread and tire pressure...I keep all 4 of my tires at 37psi and I get good grip off a dead stop launch. Other options would include stickier/wider tires and or LSD/LSD insert. From a rolling start I rip on awd evos, STi's and dsms all day long. I have a SBR LSD insert and if I control throttle correctly I can catch AWD off a dead stop lauch as well.

 

[thewraith]

I agree- sell the gst and get an awd. The gst's are great for highway races, better on fuel, or if you don't plan to mod heavily- but useless for anything else. And unless you're running extremely low profile tires- never run 37 psi on any tires. Gringo, you must be racing either handicapped drivers or stock cars if you are "ripping" on them or beating them out of the hole.

What are our mods, gringo?

 

[gringo72884]

checkout my profile.....too many to list

btw if you have the right traction mods- lsd, tires, tire pressure, suspension work, etc. and know how to drive and time shifts with a fwd its not too difficult to beat a awd car even if it has a good amount of mods....fwd's...atleast mine grips very well from 3rd gear and on...3rd gear is the most important gear....