The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ECUflash First Flashed DSM ECU! (98/99 Flashing FAQ)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Any way there will be a basic write up on "How to tune with ceddy mod"? Giving people who have never used your software or software like this a good starting prespective on how to tune and the correct steps on tuning.
 
Is anyone having a problem with the flash cable Ceddy sells not providing a full 5v reference signal. Someone locally got his cable off his site and it is only delivering 4.1V to the RCA plug and that isn't enough to be able to connect ECUFlash or EVO Scan.
 
Is anyone having a problem with the flash cable Ceddy sells not providing a full 5v reference signal. Someone locally got his cable off his site and it is only delivering 4.1V to the RCA plug and that isn't enough to be able to connect ECUFlash or EVO Scan.

No but on a related topic every so often my evoscan craps out and says "Less than 5v detected on cable please reconnect blah blah blah" I then have to wiggle the connector around and find a sweet spot I don't know if it has to do with loose wire or current on the wire, all I know is it annoying as hell.
 
Is anyone having a problem with the flash cable Ceddy sells not providing a full 5v reference signal. Someone locally got his cable off his site and it is only delivering 4.1V to the RCA plug and that isn't enough to be able to connect ECUFlash or EVO Scan.

I don't sell any flashing or logging cables.

I sell the ecu pin to 2.5mm phono plug wire. I test them and make sure they have less then 1 ohm before shipping. If you meter it, it shouldn't have more then a couple ohms resistance between the ecu pin and phono plug tip.
 
That's what I meant. I will check it out. Have you heard of anyone having this problem before or just an isolated case?
 
That's what I meant. I will check it out. Have you heard of anyone having this problem before or just an isolated case?

I haven't heard from anyone that the wire was bad, think I shipped around 20 of them.

But there could be a bad solder joint, or the 2.5mm plug got messed up or something. There should be around 1 ohm resistance from pin to plug tip.


It is fairly common to have to jiggle the plug in the OP2.0 cable to fully seat it.
 
you have to jiggle the plug around if you it says "less than 5v detected". Just pull the obdII connector forward a little and it should be fine(not with the openport plug in dumby). This will force the openport cable against the plastic of the center console and seems to remedy the issue.
 
I don't use a stereo plug. I use a 2-conductor mono plug, Radio Shack part #274-0289. Its really strange, because all the 12-pin flash adapters I got from Limitless were mono, but the ones I get from Tactrix are stereo. The jack appears to be mono to me, but its hard to tell for sure without taking it apart.
 
Thanks Jeff. Exactly what I was looking for. There is no flashport BTW, it is on a car where the pin had to be added.
 
what do I need to open up the def's and rom on my computer? I right click it and try to save it but when I download it, it says I don't have the right software to open it. I have vista and I have ecuflash downloaded too.

I am new to tuning and don't really know what I'm doing :sosad: but am looking to learn.
 
Place the def file or "xml" file in

C:\Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\eclipse

or the similar path ed folder depending on what operating system you are using.

Then open ECUflash first and open your rom file using File>Open
 
I'm trying to open my stock ROM, the ceddymod ROM, and a Keydiver ROM I bought and none of them will open because I don't have the definitions for them, but I don't know how to get the definitions. Someone please help! FYI all I need is the 20550011 definition for now. I tried to save the stuff from the def file in the first post of this thread in notepad as a .xml file but it wouldn't let me.

^never mind everything I said. I got it to work. It was Google Chrome that was causing all my problems, I switched to Internet Explorer to download the files and it worked fine.
 
Last edited:
For example an EVO site will give the flow of stock 450s as 424cc, but DSM sites say 450cc.
The EVO guys have a wrong conversion, but they have used it for so long everyone is use to it.
Another example is they give the Evo8 560s flow as 513cc.

Scaling 560 as 513 is how MITSU does it in the factory ROM. So its MITSU way of doing it, not the EVO guys
 
today I went out and flashed the ecu on my 99 gst spyder. I only did this to up the idle during neutral, added 150 to the table. after the flash I have some ? about the knock on cel light. my light stays on almost all the time now, it will go away once in awhile, I;ve seen the needle hit the top of the gauge a couple of times. Is that bad?
 
I have a few issues. First off, I have a 98 GST with a 16g and PTE 780cc injectors running around 20psi. I just flashed Ceddymods 1.9, put in the injector scaling and deadtimes, now comes the issues:

1. First off, my wideband is being wacky. Its an Innovate LC-1 and XD-16. Not really here to troubleshoot that, but if anyone has ideas, please let me know. It will calibrate to 20.9 fine, but when I restart, at idle it may read low (like 3) and jump to 20s, slowly go back down to <10, maybe flash back to the % with 20.9, sometimes flashes CAL, then ends up just showing -.-.- like it wasn't connected any longer.

2. Next, when I just go to trying to calibrate the fuel trims, I get no trim percentage in Evoscan, they just show as 0, all three, even after idling for over 20 min.

3. My stock O2, supposed to cycle between 0.2 and 0.9, right? Mine stays at like 0.05 or 0.03V. It will vary with throttle, but otherwise typically stays solid. I try adjusting the scaling down (since I can't see if AFRs match, it's blind) and it seems to increase voltage, but never gone above 0.1V. However, seems to idle and rev better, but once it hits boost, it cuts out. Is my sensor bad?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
You need to get your WideBand working right first for Injector/Fuel tuning.
Make sure your power supply and ground are good, the Innovate WB are famous for being finicky that way. I ended up running a dedicated power and ground(#12 AWG) for my WB and Gauges, because tapping into the cigarette lighter power wasn't working with my LC-1.

Your Front O2 needs to cycle (move from ~0.2 to 0.9 and back), for the trims to work.

Sounds like your Injector Scaling may be to high, but you need a WB to check this.

You can check if your WB is Calibrated correctly by logging the Front O2 voltage.
When the Front O2 is cycling around 0.5 v, WB should read around 14.7.




I have a few issues. First off, I have a 98 GST with a 16g and PTE 780cc injectors running around 20psi. I just flashed Ceddymods 1.9, put in the injector scaling and deadtimes, now comes the issues:

1. First off, my wideband is being wacky. Its an Innovate LC-1 and XD-16. Not really here to troubleshoot that, but if anyone has ideas, please let me know. It will calibrate to 20.9 fine, but when I restart, at idle it may read low (like 3) and jump to 20s, slowly go back down to <10, maybe flash back to the % with 20.9, sometimes flashes CAL, then ends up just showing -.-.- like it wasn't connected any longer.

2. Next, when I just go to trying to calibrate the fuel trims, I get no trim percentage in Evoscan, they just show as 0, all three, even after idling for over 20 min.

3. My stock O2, supposed to cycle between 0.2 and 0.9, right? Mine stays at like 0.05 or 0.03V. It will vary with throttle, but otherwise typically stays solid. I try adjusting the scaling down (since I can't see if AFRs match, it's blind) and it seems to increase voltage, but never gone above 0.1V. However, seems to idle and rev better, but once it hits boost, it cuts out. Is my sensor bad?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
If it works like the evo cel on knock then it means you have a cel and the flashing off is when you have knock.

Use evoscan and read some codes. Log your car too, I'm not sure what you need to log on a DSM ecu to check knock voltage vs knock threshold but if those readings are available they are incredibly helpful for determining phantom knock vs real knock.
 
today I went out and flashed the ecu on my 99 gst spyder. I only did this to up the idle during neutral, added 150 to the table. after the flash I have some ? about the knock on cel light. my light stays on almost all the time now, it will go away once in awhile, I;ve seen the needle hit the top of the gauge a couple of times. Is that bad?

How much boost are you running? You shouldn't be getting knock on the stock maps at low to moderate boost.

Make sure your knock sensor isn't leaking goo. And get a log to see when you are knocking.

Either way, if its phantom knock or real its bad. Timing is being pulled so your losing power, and you could potentially damage your motor with high counts of real knock.
 
I'm running stock boost. I was throwing a CEL before I flashed it was for the evap solenoid. I got a new one and hooked it up and then flashed. Tomorrow I'll go out and reflash to stock and see what we got for CELS. I am running at 1g CAS advanced to 5 degrees if that would make a difference.
 
Don't bother reflashing to stock IMO, nothing you did should cause a CEL without causing serious running issues so it isn't the change in tuning that is affecting your car. Just read the code and fix the problem to get rid of the CEL or depending on the problem don't fix it and just adjust your periphery bits to flash the trouble code out of existence, if it is just an evap solenoid then you're best off just turning off the test for it.

After that you're left with determining your knock issues, see where you're knocking and if it responds to timing changes. It is far less common than people generally assume but there are times when you can get bad gas. It has happened to me only once and I assume that even once is only a fluke but it is worth checking out.

Long story short I would lay money on the fact that the changes you've made aren't the root of the problem.
 
Yeah but isn't running the ceddy mod supposed to get rid of cels. And make the check engine light a knock gauge?
I went out and tried to read the Cel light but Evo couldn't read from ecu in my windows 7. It has done this ever since I switched to 7. I installed it on my XP virtual machine and it still can't connect. Attached is the most recent log that i've done. Can someone take a look at this and help me out. I'm a bit of a nooooooob when it comes to tuning.

this is off my stock setup and 14b turbo.
greddy exhaust
apexi downpipe
K&N big cone filter
stock boost
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
AFAIK ceddymods doesn't get rid of CELs and if it did that would be a poor feature. What it does do is add the definition for the ecu's periphery bits so that when you have an annoying CEL that involves a piece of hardware that you don't plan on replacing the test for that trouble code can be turned off.

I can't look at your log right now but hopefully someone else will have the time.

Which version of evoscan are you using? There was one particular iteration that had trouble code scanning broken. Now would be a good time to upgrade anyway since 2.7 just came out yesterday.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top